Removed the switch plate and connected the two wires going into the dimmer box and the lights still dont come on. I as thikning by bypassing the dimmer the lights should still function. What else could be the issue here? Just bought new 90w halogen flood bulbs as well. Replaced all four in the recessed light fixtures.

Is original a 3-way dimmer (2 or more switches control same light fixture)?

If you have determined the wiring to be correct, then yes, the remote is probably defective..

According to Lightolier literature, your Lightolier OS600 is called a "strap dimmer". Having 540W on a 600w rated switch is pretty close to the limit (90%) of the switch, and will cause the switch to fail sooner than say a 300w load. The 600w rating of the switch applies only if all the heating sink fins are in place. Often times, when installing in a box with another switch or dimmer, fins must be removed to allow the switch to physically fit. If any fins are removed, the rating of the switch is reduced. Page 30 of the manual shows that a 600w strap dimmer that has a single fine removed is reduced to a 500w capacity dimmer, and if both fins are removed, it is reduced to a 400w dimmer. You may find that you will need a 1000w dimmer to reliably gain control of your 540w load, as it will control 600w even with both fins removed. This derating is required due to the heat created by the dimmer. Heat is a killer for electronics, and solid state dimmers are no exception.

Check out page 32 of that manual. On it, are wiring diagrams for dimmers and switches. I believe your is figure "G" that shows the 120v "hot" (black) connected to the black wire of ALL switches, the yellow wires of ALL the switches are connected together, but are not connected to anything else, the 120v neutral (white) connects to the MASTER white wire AND light fixture white wire and finally, the MASTER red wire connects to the light fixture black wire.

It is also important to note that these switches are for standard tungsten incandescent and quartz halogen lamps ONLY. They are NOT suitable for CFL, Fluorescent or other types frequently found in commercial / industrial buildings such as neon or other gas lamps such as Metal Halide, Mercury Vapor, High Pressure Sodium, etc.

I hope this helps & good luck!

Hi Velie,

I am an electrician and can help you wire this switch. If I understand correctly, you have a two-gang switch box in the wall. In it, you have two switches installed. One switch is a 3-way type, and is one of two (or more) switches used to control preparation area lighting. The other switch is a single pole type and controls a light over your kitchen table. Right?

If this is correct, remove the double switch wall plate. Let's set aside concerns with the 3-way switch. We have nothing to do to this switch so we will not need to remove it from the box, nor will we need to disconnect it. It works independently of the switch that controls the light over the table.

Remove the switch that operates the light over the table. If it is indeed a single pole switch, it will have just two terminals for wires to connect. It will probably also have indications for ON and OFF on the handle. If installed correctly, flipping the toggle up or pressing the top of the switch will turn the light on. If is a 3-way switch, it will have terminals for 3 wires to connect. One of the terminals will be a dark color from the other two. Additionally, no ON and OFF markings are on the switch handle and the light may turn on in either handle position (depending on the position of other switches controlling the light). With this information, I assume that you have now verified that it is in fact, a single pole switch. Right?

If all is going as expected, then we can continue. Shut off the power. Since a single pole switch has only two wires to connect, this should be fairly easy to do. One terminal should have a single wire that goes to the light over the table. The other terminal should have a wire that is powered all the time. It is very possible that the wire that connects to this terminal is ALSO is connected to the the 3-way switch either directly, or by a short length of wire that has a wirenut to connect several wires together. If you need to verify a connection to the 3-way switch, remove the switch from the box if needed (do NOT disconnect any wires). The wire should be connected to the dark colored terminal screw of the 3-way switch. This would indicate that this wire - and those connected by wire nut to it - is the source of constant power. Carefully fold the wires into the box and re-secure the 3-way switch if you pulled it from the box.

You new switch has a single RED wire and TWO black wires. Twist a wirenut cap on ONE of the black wires (it does not matter which). Remove the wire that was determined to be powered all the time (was also connected to the 3-way's dark colored terminal) from the old switch, and twist it around the dimmer switch's remaining BLACK wire with a wirenut. Disconnect the remaining wire from the old switch and twist it around the dimmer switch's RED wire with a wirenut. Add the dimmer switch's GREEN wire in to the bundle of uninsulated ground wires in the wirenut inside the box. Fold all the wires gently into the box and secure the dimmer to the box. Install the wall plate and turn on the power.

I hope this helped & good luck!

Hi Karen,

There are two types of dimmer switches - single pole (or S1) and three way (or S3). You can determine which type you have without even removing a screw. Here's how: How many switches can control the light fixture now? One or more than one? If you answered one, you need a single pole dimmer switch. If you answered 2 or more (it doesn't matter how many at this point), you need a three way dimmer. Ok, we're done with step one almost.. make sure that the one switch that controls the light has ON and OFF on the toggle handle. Likewise, none of the multi-switch arrangements that control a light should have ON or OFF on the toggle handle. None of the wide rocker or Decora style switches have ON or OFF on them.

Next, do the light switches that control the fixture only control an incandescent light? If the switch operates a light AND a fan - like a paddle fan fixture - you can't simply replace the switch with a dimmer. Dimmers are for use with a 120 volt incandescent lamps (tungsten, quartz, halogen, etc.). They are not designed to work on motors circuits - such as fans - nor are they designed to work for lights that have a "ballast" like neon or fluorescent types or a "transformer" like low voltage track lights, etc.. Check the bulb's voltage rating if unsure if a low voltage type or not. The only exception to the above that I am aware of would be for lamps that SPECIFICALLY state on the package that they can be used with a dimmer. You can find dimmable compact fluorescent lamps that will work, but as far as I know, there are no other types of lamps or motors for that matter that will work WITHOUT OVERHEATING or DANGER OF FIRE.

A retail package of dimmable CFLs.

That means, yes; if you install a dimmer on a motor, it will adjust the motor speed BUT, the motor WILL over heat and can easily start a fire. The same holds true for lamps that have a ballast. If it doesn't specifically state it is for use with a dimmer, don't try to use a dimmer to control it.

Check the wattage rating of the fixture. There is a sticker affixed to every fixture that indicates the maximum wattage of each lamp socket. Add these values together. Most fixtures are well under 600 watts. This 600 value is significant, as this is the base rating for dimmer switches. Nearly all unmarked dimmers are rated for 600W - but if you look closely, you should find this wattage rating along with the voltage rating on it somewhere. If your fixture is capable of more than 600W, you should select a dimmer that is rated to at least handle this wattage. The next higher wattage rating for most dimmers is 1000W, and costs about twice as much as the 600W dimmer. It only gets more expensive from here. Fortunately, not many residential applications need 1000W+ dimmers for the loads they will control. The need for 100W+ dimmers comes into play when there is a dimmer switch in the same box as the old switch. When converting a dimmer & switch to a dimmer and dimmer in the same box, the wattage rating is derated to disapate the heat created by the dimmers. Please, consult the chart below to see how to properly derate:

http://www.residential-landscape-lighting-design.com/lighting_dimmer_derating_ganging.htm

Ok, the preliminary work is complete. Shut off the power to the circuit. Remove the wall plate and remove the mounting screws that secure the switch from the switch box. Gently pull the switch out of the box. If it is a single pole switch, it will have two (2) terminals. If it has 3 or more terminals, (not counting the green ground screw) skip ahead to the three way section. If there are more than 2 wires connected to the switch (again, not counting the green ground screw), mark the wires so that you know which wire(s) go to which terminals. Use masking tape and a pen to write or colored tape to identify all wires that connect to the same terminal. Turn power back on. Test the all the wires for the presence of 120 volts. Once this is learned, shut the power off again. Test to make sure power is indeed off. Remove the wires from the switch terminal screws. Remove any bare or green ground wire from the green screw. The new dimmer should be connected so that the the "power" or "line" wire or terminal is connected to the wire(s) that you found to be powered in the previous step. If there was 2 or more powered wires that had the same identification or mark on them when testing - make sure all those wires get connected to this terminal of the dimmer. Connect the remaining wire(s) (that should also ALL have the same marking) to the remaining "load" or "light" wire or terminal of the dimmer. Make sure the wires that connect with a supplied wirenut have no exposed metal to short out. Check your work. Make sure none of the marked wires have been mixed with the other marked wires. Connect any bare or green ground wire to the green or bare wire of the dimmer or green screw on the dimmer. Gently fold the wires to the rear of the box or sides and insert the dimmer. Secure to the box with screws and install the wall plate. Turn on power and test.

If you have a multi-switch or three way installation, it's a little more complicated. Firstly, only ONE dimmer is used in the circuit. Installing more than one dimmer will prevent the light from being made brighter than the current brightness setting of lowest switch. If there are 3 or more switches that control the light, two are three way types; and are the only ones that can be changed to a dimmer. The third, and subsequent switches in multi-switch installations are "four way switches". Dimmers are not made to replace them. Three way switches have 3 terminal screws and four way switches have four screws (not counting the green ground terminal screw). This is the only way to determine one from the other. Start by shutting off the power. Go to the switch that you would like to replace with the dimmer. Remove the wall plate and switch mounting screws. Gently pull the switch out of the switch box. Count the number screws on the switch body (do not count any green ground screw). If it has 3 screws, it's a 3 way. If it has four, its a four way and can not be changed to a dimmer. If it has 4 screws, resecure the switch into the switch box and reinstall the wall plate. You will need to find a three way switch that controls this light. If none of the other locations is not desirable, you can not install the dimmer. Otherwise, remove any bare or green wire from the green ground screw. Next, locate the dark colored screw. This is called the "common" or "shunt" screw. Sometimes it is painted black; and other times it is gold when all the non-ground screws are silver colored. In any case, it will be the "odd colored" screw. Mark the wire(s) that connect to this screw with a number "1". Mark the wire under one of the other screws (it doesn't matter which) with a "2"; and mark the wire under the remaining screw with a "3". The wires that are connected to these terminals and marked as number 2 & 3 are called "traveler wires". Traveler wires run between switches and common (or shunt) wires that connected to the terminal with the same name and marked as number 1 does one of two things: it either comes from the power source or it supplies power to the light fixture. Make sure each wire that was connected to the 3 way switch has a number on it, then remove all the wires from the switch terminals. You will connect your traveler wires numbered 2 & 3 to the dimmer's traveler wires or terminals (it does not matter which wire is connected to which terminal; and the common or shunt wire numbered 1 to the dimmer's common or shunt wire or terminal. Many dimmers use black as the common or shunt and red & white for travelers. You'll need to consult the wiring information that comes with the dimmer to find out the colors used for common or shunt and the traveler wires on your switch. Check your work. Make sure no exposed wire can short when it is powered up, later. Carefully fold the wires into the switch box. Insert the dimmer into and secure to the switch box. Reinstall the wall plate and turn power on & test.

I hope this helps & good luck! Please rate my replay.

Hi Jay,
Ive suspect that there's a problem in the main line of the wiring. Since four halogen bulb are already replaced with a new bulb and bypassed the dimmer switch concentrate now on the wiring and the main panel board. Look for a tripped/busted breaker on the box, reset it.Replaced if busted. If nothing works, you need to check the wiring on the ceiling for open.
Hope it may help you.
Have a nice day!
Thanks for using fixya.
JDVillanueva

Ok you've had some jack leg electrical work done in your house. The (white bypass) nuetral should be left alone, first you have to figure out which wire is your hot wire (the one bringing the power to the switch) you will need a meter. Take the wires off one screw at a time (you may want to turn off the breaker feeding the switch, its not a bad idea) chack the wires one at a time until you find the hot wire, once you've figured that out tie those wires togrether with the black wire on the dimmer, take the other set and tie those together with the red on the dimmer but with that many wires you're dimming more than one light at a time. If you have anymore questions just let me know

If I understand correctly, you have Leviton florescent dimmer

And you want to connect dimmer to Lutron ECO-series ballast

This is the ballast with 3 wires: Hot dimmed, Neutral and Hot


Is this your dimmer???? Has Black, White, Red, Yellow-red, & Orange




Here's how to do it:
Dimmer yellow-red is not used except for 3-way switch >> cap it off with wire nut
Dimmer orange wire connects to ballast Dimmed Hot
Dimmer red wire connects to ballast Hot
Dimmer white wire connects to ballast Neutral

Those are your wires going to ballast. As you can see, you need 3 wires going to florescent fixture

Next, let's focus on Dimmer:
Dimmer green wire goes to bare ground wire
Dimmer black wire connects to Hot from breaker box (we'll test for that next)
Finally the Dimmer white wire connects to ballast Neutral as discussed above BUT is also has to connect to Neutral from breaker box

This means the Dimmer white wire is connected to 2 wires >> one wire goes to florescent fixture and the other wire comes from breaker box


So which wires come from breaker box??
It should be a black and white wire.
Let's test to find Hot and Neutral that come from breaker box.

Mark your wires.
Disconnect all the wires and separate from each other
Turn on power
Use ordinary tester
Tape tester leads to wood sticks so hands stay away from electricity
Power is on
Test each wire to bare copper wire
When tester lights up, that is Hot from breaker box ... this wire connects to Dimmer black wire
Now, test the hot wire to each of the other wires
When tester lights up, that is Neutral wire ... this wire connects to Dimmer white wire, and also connects to Ballast neutral.

Connect one wire at a time, and it will work.

Hello. Turn off the power to this switch. Remove the plate and then take out the dimmer switch. Check each of the wire connections. Make sure each one is tight and that there is not too much bare wire exposed outside of the actual connection. Reinstall the dimmer making sure that it is tightly connected to the box. Replace the plate and turn the power back on. IF you still have a problem there may be a sensitive fault inside of the dimmer switch so replace the switch. Joe
please mark this answer as very helpful thanks.

Yes, this is a single pole dimmer switch. Connect the green wire to the ground wire in your electrical switch box and connect one black wire to the power (common wire) in the switch box and the other to the wire going to the incandesant light fixture. (Standard dimmers cannot be used with CFL type bulbs).

You should be working fine! Remember to turn off the power to the wiring your connecting this dimmer to to prevent both getting a shock and from damaging the dimmer during installation.

Hope you found this very helpful and best regards!

Black wires are the hot side the power line, white is the neutral, and green is ground. On your dimmer, the black wire is for the AC input and the red wire is the output to the lamp you want to control.

If you are replacing an old switch with the dimmer, the two black wires will be connected to the screw terminals on the switch. One of those black wires is the AC feed to the switch, the other black is the one that goes to the light fixture. You'll need to determine which is which so you can hook the dimmer up correctly.

For a few dollars you can pick up a tester that lights and chirps when it's near a hot wire. Turn off power to the light circuit at your circuit breaker or fuse panel. Remove the old switch and disconnect the wires. Make sure the bare ends are not touching anything and turn the power back on. Hold the tester near each of the black wires. One of them will cause the tester to light up and the other one will not. The unpowered wire is the one going to the light fixture. This one connects to the red wire on the new dimmer. The hot wire is the feed that connects to the dimmer black wire. The green wire on the dimmer connects to the other green wires already in the box. Turn the power off again and make your connections using UL approved twist-on connectors (wire nuts), which probably came with the dimmer. Fit the wires and dimmer back into the switch box, secure it with the mounting screws, replace the cover plate and turn the power back on.

Voila! You'll have a working dimmer. A Google search for "installing dimmers" will turn up several links to sites with good pictures.