No heat..revolves, blows ok...is there a fuse that shuts off gas?

the thermocouple ot high heat limiter ====the thermocouple when going bad -or not properly on bracket will shut the gas valve off --same with high heat limiter ---before checking these parts feel the air coming out if feels restricted clean the vent tube under the lint trap filter can use a vacuum from front and rear exhaust tube

If your dryer is not getting any heat, you need to make sure there is nothing blocking the vent. IE: LINT. Air flow is key to efficient drying. Make sure the dryer settings are appropriate for the clothes you want to dry. The timer selection, fabric selection, and the temperature selection all play important roles in proper dryer operation.
Check the heating element, burner operation, ignitor, thermal fuse, and the wiring (power cord).
• Heating element (For Electric Models)
• Burner operation (For Gas Models)
• Ignitor (For Gas Models)
• Thermal fuse
I WOULD START WITH:
To protect from over-heating, many dryers use what's commonly called a thermal fuse. If the thermal fuse gets too hot, it will blow, and completely shut down your dryer until it is replaced. This fuse is often mounted within the exhaust duct in the back panel. It's about an inch long, and is usually found within a white plastic housing. When fuses blow, it means they have no continuity and no power will flow through it. A bad thermal fuse needs to be replaced. When replacing this fuse, check the dryer vents to make sure there is no lint buildup which can cause the heat to stay trapped and blow the fuse again.
Visually inspect your heating element for any broken or burned areas.Check the coil for continuity with a Volt Ohm Meter. If there's no continuity, it means that the element is bad and you need to replace it.
If the ignitor is cycling without the burner lighting, you probably have defective electrical coils in the gas valve. These coils look like black cylinders with wires coming out the top of them, and are located near the burner valve assembly. When they get power, they open up and allow the gas to get through to the burner. If this is a new installation, make sure the gas valve is turned on.

Check ur venting inside and outside the machine. the lint basket? is the air blowing out the back without any restrictions? then check ur thermostats with a multi meter for continuity, may also want to check ur moister sensor, if its mis reading the dryness it will shut off heat early

Slope front dryer manual

Once you get into the machine first check the temp control on the blower housing then the fuse beside it for continuity. The the dryer cold the control should ge continuity. open control and no heat.open fuse no heat
Any open safety no heat. If all the safetys is good nest take a look at the gas assembly. The gas assembly components all are powered up at once in an elaborate wiring scheme. The ignitor draws a lot of current, so much so that the coils will not yank open the valve till the ignitor is shut down. That is the job of the flame sensor. It shuts down the ignitor allowing the gas coils to do they job and yank open the gas valve, and the gas hits the ignitor and fires off a blast of hot air. It take only a moment to get the temp in the drum to 160f. And then that control I spoke of earlier shuts down the gas assembly. The clicking on and off and the whoosh of the blast of heat is repeated throughout the drying process.
If the heat works some but dies then them solenoids is old and tired. A bad blower wheel could blow safetys


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On a gas dryer the gas assembly is simply powered up by a sensor on the blower housing. If heat is called for from upstairs the power flows through the bimetal mounted on the blower housing. Here is a simple bi-metal:
See the 4 wires? 2 of them wires operate a small heater inside the control. when it gets heated it shuts down faster for permapress and knits. Next to the control is a fuse on most models as seen here:

That fuse blows if the air temp exceeds 350f. That control thermostat at its hottest setting of cotton shuts down at 160f. It ramps back up at 105f. and continues to send power to the gas assembly till it feels 160f and then it shuts down. SOOO.. if we have a good fuse and a good thermostat 120 volts should get to the gas assembly if heat is needed. The gas assembly has a flame sensor which detects the heat bouncing off the ignitor. An ignitor to light off the gas, and a pair of holding coils. The whole gas assembly is energized at one. But them coils will not supply gas until the ignitor drops out if the circuit. To do so the flame sensor bi metal must shut down the power to the ignitor and that frees up the power to charge them coils and yank open the valve. The gas hits the ignitor and whoosh we have fire in the hole. It takes literally no time for the temp to reach 160 in the blower housing and so the power is removed from the gas assembly and the dryer tumbles onward absorbing the heat till the temp drops down to 105f and that control once again powers up the gas assembly. If your flame sensor is working and shutting down the ignitor and the heat works once or twice but quits then them solenoids are getting hot and quitting because they are old and weak. Replace em and party on.



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In most cases, a failure to heat is caused by a blown thermal fuse or high limit thermostat. Usually it is the fuse, but the fuse may be blown due to a defective thermostat. To find the location on your specific machine (and purchase the parts) try www.appliancepartspros.com To test the fuse, WITH THE MACHINE UNPLUGGED, put an ohmmeter or continuity tester across the fuse with it's wires unhooked. It should have continuity. If it is open, replace it. If the thermal fuse blows, it is fairly common to find the dryer vent partially blocked as well. Make sure it is clear. Thermal fuses are fairly cheap, but you don't want to have to replace it every other week. Good luck.

some gas dryers have a fuse on the back vent line. after you take back cover off you will see a small white heat fuse with 2 small connectors if this is ok you probably need new gas control coils.

try replacing thermal fuse. its cheaper than the heater element. this fuse blows when there is restricted air flow over the heating element. meaning clogged vent. you can ohm out this fuse. fuse is located at top left of heater duct with two wire leads going towards it. if its ok then remove heating element and look at coils. usually you can see one broke

There is a thermal fuse in the iron which blows when overheated. This fuse has to be replaced.

You can probably find one on-line at radioshack.com -- match the temperature rating of the old fuse. It'll have to be crimped in -- if you solder it, the heat will blow it.

If it does not heat , and you already checked the burner and the ignitor, then it is probably the thermal fuse at the back of the appliance.

See the following suggestions from Repairclinic:

No heat If your dryer doesn't heat, check these:

Igniter
Gas valve coils
Thermal fuse
Igniter Modern gas dryers use an electric igniter to ignite the gas from the gas valve. When it's working properly, the igniter glows bright orange. When it burns out, the dryer tumbles but there's no heat because the gas can't ignite. When the igniter burns out, you need to replace it. If the igniter is held by a tension bracket, you very well may need to replace the bracket too.

The igniter is inside the dryer housing, near the bottom front, usually in a cone-shaped metal tube (the force cone). It's about 2 inches long. It's mounted to the far end of the burner tube, and it has two wires attached to it--or to the tension bracket, if there is one.

Gas valve coils Watch the igniter. Does it glow bright orange, then shut off without igniting the gas? (When the gas ignites there's a large blue flame.) If so, there may be defective coils on the gas valve. Mounted on the top of modern gas valves, there are black electrical coils. The coils, when energized, open the gas valve. If one or more of the coils are defective, the valve doesn't open and the gas cannot ignite. Because it's often difficult to properly test the coils, it's usually best to replace both (all) of them at the same time.

Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse (a heat-sensitive fuse that blows if the dryer overheats) mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse is about an inch long. It's usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing.

If the fuse has blown, it has no continuity. When this happens, your dryer either just stops heating, or it doesn't work at all. Be sure to inspect the venting/heating system before replacing the fuse to put the dryer back into operation. (You can't re-set this type of fuse.)