I have a pretty new Amana refrigerator that gets frost build up in the opening of the ice maker. Do you know what is causing that?

Is the compressor running? If not - the timer could be stuck in defrost mode. If it is ruinning, then the freezer coil should be cold. If it is choked with frost & ice - then the defrost heater isn't getting powered (bad timer or defrost terminator - or is getting powered but has burned out.

You should allow the ice and frost to melt completely before turning back on again. Typically ice and frost don't build up so bad in a few days time to cause the temperature rise you're describing If getting cold - the compressor and refrigerant is likely OK, if not the defrost circuit is suspect. If compressor running but not getting cold - a refrigerant leak / charge level may be causing the problem.

When frost builds up on the little flapper at the top of the door above the ice maker it can get stuck. It tells the ice maker to keep making ice. Try cleaning the mechanism of frost and make sure it operates freely.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited. Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system: The defrost timer The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch) The defrost heater. To determine if the defrost heater is burned out, watch this part testing video

Ice cubes WILL BE slightly moist when they land in the ice bucket. they've just been slightly melted in order to eject from the ice maker. Stop playing with the settings, for starters. put them back to normal, i.e., middle setting, place thermometer in center of freezer, and if you can, one in center of fresh food. monitor after 24 hours, and for the next three days thereafter. freezer temps should be in the -5 - +5°F, sometimes up to 10°, fresh food should be 35-40, sometimes up to 44°at the normal settings. If you are not having temperature issues, see if you notice any frozen drips of water on the underside of icemaker, indicating a possible crack in the ice maker mold, or a faulty water valve. You didnt include your model and serial number, so not knowing the path of the ice shoot, some go out the freezer door, some slide over and get dispensed from the fresh food side. Its possible you may have a problem instead with the flapping door that opens to allow ice cubes to be dispensed, or similar type mechanism. If this door does not seat completely when its closed, it will leak warm air directly into the ice bucket, which would make them slightly moist, also too, this warm air can cause frost and ice to buildup near the warm air source...look for any unusual forms of ice and or frost leading up from the flapping door to the ice bucket. Also look for any gaps in the door gasket when closed, this warm air leak can also cause similar problems, but its most likely with the ice door. could be the door, the spring, the solenoid, or something else i wouldn't know without personal refrigerator inspection.

Sounds like you may have a couple of problems here. The frost build up could be from a bad door seal. Moist air can be drawn in and collect on the inside. As for the water temp, it sounds like the water line connected to the refrigerator could be tapped off a hot water line. It needs to be connected to a potible cold water line.

Hi, look inside freezer and see if there is a frost build up on the rear wall. Also listen to see if the evapotator fan motor is running.
Please let me know so I can assist you further.

Vic

Hi, If you had ice, there is a drain plugged in the freezer. If you had a frost build up, there is a problem with the automatic defrost.

I can help in either case. Please let me know if you need more assistance.
Thakns
Vic

This is the moisture coming out of the food. It is what causes freezer burn.

The problem is made worse in frost free models by the defrost cylce. Best way to slow it down is to use vacuum bags or freezer bags. Also above 0 F food deterioates faster and below it gets freezer burn and the moisture problem faster.

Make sure nothing is inhibiting air flow. I don't think it is advisable to store food in an ice machine however that is not likely the problem unless the food itself is inhibiting air flow. Most ice machine manufacturers recommend against storing any food in an ice machine. If there is a freezer component in you model the check to see if the evaporator coils are frosting up and the frost is blocking airflow causing the ice storage chamber to get warm. High humidity can cause frosting. Leaving a door to the ice maker open too long can cause frosting. A low refrigerant charge can do this although it seems logically like it should not. With a very slightly low charge one end of the evaporator gets super cold and the other end is not cold enough. Frosts starts collecting on the super cold end and accumulates across the evaporator coil to the other end eventually blocking all air flow. With too much humidity from open doors frost accumulates over the entire evaporator evenly but still blocks. You shut the unit down. It thaws out and works OK on restart until frost again builds up. If its not a frosting problem but it just stops making ice then the ice may not be releasing. Check the water supply and change any filters to insure good water flow. A good water supply is required for proper release and harvest of the ice in many ice machines. If the ice doesn't release it takes a shut down and thaw to clear the suspended ice out. Check for these things and write back if you need further assistance and can provide me with more details.

Defected DEFROST HEATER can cause frost build up on the panel at the back of the freezer,and freezer stop cooling and ice frozen on unit so air could not flow to refrigerator side.Water will coming out caused of unbalanced freezing,and causing the flooding of water in the floor. You must change this defroster heater assembly so it will works normal again..


Hope this may help;

Regards,
VOTIT