There is no base setting for the carb when changing to a non standard cylinder, so as not to over rev the engine the key is to check the max rpm with a tachometer, 13000 should be the maximum you should set it too, the two screws are fuel screws so unscrew to richen the mixture and decrease the speed, I would start with settings at L 1 1/4 turns out and the H 1 1/4 turns out, you will need to fine adjust from here.
SOURCE: big bore kit
The big bore kit is pretty easy. It is actually pretty basic. If you are buying a complete kit it should come with a spec sheet that will give you clearances and so forth. Make sure you gap the rings. I believe the gap should be .002" per inch of bore. If you are running a super hi-lift cam then you will want to check the piston to valve clearance and also the check for valve spring coil bind.
Good luck and let me know if you have any further questions.
Regards,
RSelvy
SOURCE: broken kick starter gear
No other gear set available to my knowledge. The correct set of gears should be able to handle an extra 50cc. The head gasket and cylinder gasket should also be the same. If they arn't, the larger gaskets would come with the kit.
SOURCE: carb tune up gilera runner 50
on the carb you will find 2 screw one will be quite far in than the over thats the one you adjust this is the mixture screw which controlles the air and petrol together unscrew it say 1/4 a turns at a time and see if it improves if it gets worse screw it the oposite way and see if that improves good luck buddy
SOURCE: need help with setting up my dell'orto phbd 14 bs
first get the bike running, turn the idle adjustment up enough to keep it running. start with the air/fuel screw, 1 1/4 turn out. adjust the screw which ever way increases the idle 1/4 turn at a time, wait 10 seconds after every 1/4 turn to allow the engine speed to adjust. As the idle goes up you can use the idle screw to keep it in its normal range. at some point, the idle will start to come back down, this is when you want to start going the other way. idealy you want it set in the middle of the range of when it stopped increasing and when it started to decrease. If you are not able to reach this happy medium within the normal adjustment range, you will need to put the proper pilot jet in and start the process again. This should get you up and running, if it is a generic carb you may will have to adjust the jetting to get the bike performing its best after that, but thats another chapter.
Testimonial: "managed to get it running now as i now have a propper top head gasket ,lol still trying to find the propper idle setting ,lol tweek turn + hope , andz"
SOURCE: I AM LOOKING AT A
I suppose that would depend on the person that installed it, and where they got it. It will not turn the bike into a 450, but will upgrade the bikes performance as a 250 to possibly a 260 up to a 270.
It's a pretty big job. You need to be competent (and confident) with tools as well as diagnosing and repairing gas engines. Without knowing the details of your scooter, the overview is this: 1) Remove the carburetor (if mounted to the cylinder), exhaust pipe, cylinder head, cylinder and piston. 2) Have the cylinder bored out** to provide the correct clearance between the cylinder and the piston (if different from the scooter manufacturer's clearance this information should be provided by kit manufacturer). 3) Modify the head (more machine work to reshape the combustion chamber to work with the larger bore). 3) Reassemble. 4) Modify the fuel system (usually a carburetor) to correctly fuel the now larger displacement engine. 5) Get the new set up running and then tune it to run properly without damaging itself from an incorrect fuel mixture.
** Some cylinders are aluminum with a steel sleeve that forms the bore that piston runs in. Some are aluminum with a thin nikasil coating on the aluminum bore. These will be much more expensive to bore out as they will need to have the coating replaced after being bored out.
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