I had thought that first the power for the power supply was on via the power supply switch (back of the pc), and then the pc grounded the 'ps on' (?momentarily) when the pc 'power' switch was operated to turn on the pc.I had thought that first the power for the power supply was on via the power supply switch (back of the pc), and then the pc grounded the 'ps on' (?momentarily) when the pc 'power' switch was operated to turn on the pc.
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most power supplies have a switch for 120 and or 220 options just move the switch to what setting you want. most power supplies can be used as a stand a lone power supply, if not than you need to request for a 220 watt power supply the can be used as a stand alone for pc or computer use. most computer retail should have them in stock. look on line or at www.fryselectronics.com/computer/parts/power_supple/stand-a-lone/for_PC_use/220_watts/
type power supplies stand-a-lone 220 watts computers compatible
Any power supply will do as long as it has the same specs as the dead one, which will be:
Input : x Volts AC
Output: x Volts AC or DC
Watts: x
Amps: in millamps
Polarity: (for power supply with DC output only) Center pin = plus or Center pin = minus
You should be able to find the matching transformer/adapter/power supply at Radio Shack.
More info, let me know.
Charlie
P.S. The power supply you received may be the correct one -- check to see if the specs match the old one.
just get one like the one that went out. id recommend a 600 watt power supply xion.com has good one make a list or notes if you must or replace one lead at time and make a note of where it goes before you disconnect it '
the reason im recommending a 600 watt is most power supplies are marginal to begin with in my opinion. so getting a higher rated unit allows you to add accessories you might want to adds i burned up a chief max 600 watt in a month for some reason replaced it with a 425 till i got a new one and bought a 600 watt xion.com power supply the original was 425 watt. i guess i got what i paid for the chief max was only 28 dolara from 3btech.net (a good site to bookmark
Look at the rating sticker on the oven and use the AC power rating as your guide. The cooking power of the oven is not important, but the power it needs from the AC supply is. Voltage times current is the supply power needed (watts), and you want an oven that will draw less than the inverter's continuous rating, less any power being used by other appliances.
For instance, a microwave rated for 120 volts AC at 10 amps needs 1200 watts. Your inverter would be OK with this as long as other devices aren't using more than another 1000 watts. You can't use the inverter's peak rating. That's only for brief bursts, like when the microwave first kicks on and draws some extra current.
Any mid-power (600 watts or so) oven should be OK.
If connector have two big brown wires (pins 1 and 11) and a small brown wire (pin 2). then short circuit the small brown wire with a big brown wire (pins 1 and 2).
Also short circuit the small black wire (pin 16) with a big black wire (pin 17).
Ps. The Power Supply needs a minimal load ex: 1A.
I had thought that first the power for the power supply was on via the power supply switch (back of the pc), and then the pc grounded the 'ps on' (?momentarily) when the pc 'power' switch was operated to turn on the pc.
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