Lights, refrigerator, outlets not working, microwave lights on. GFCI switch and breakers have been checked. Springdale 189

Hello. Critical question--is the dishwasher on that GFCI circuit!? If so, (A) you might have voided any warranty and (B) you should NEVER have appliances with digital boards on a GFCI circuit. Why? Because the method GFCI breakers and outlets use to keep us safe(how they reference current to ground) can blow out the electronic control boards plugged in to the circuit they monitor. I am ALWAYS telling my customers to immediately switch out an outlet or breaker which is protecting a washer, dishwasher, or microwave. I know that electrical codes often mandate that a GFCI device be within 3 feet of a water source but the design engineers didn't think about that one...It often is buried in the users manual to NOT connect the device to a GFCI.
Now, after all that, I need the model number of your unit to help you most accurately--some dishwashers have a main fuse on or near the main control board. If this fuse opens, voila! The unit is D-E-A-D until you replace the fuse. However, if there isn't a fuse, you've got a blown main board(and possibly user control panel, too). Power slams like the one you experienced are notorious for damaging control boards. That's why power outages are so destructive--they either blow out boards immediately or cause them to fail in about 3-4 weeks afterwards due to the damaged chips on the board starting to fail from over-current/voltage. I hope I helped you!

the concept for a DRYER is the same for a washer or fridge in some instances

The key to this problem is what the amp draw of the washer is when the house breaker trips.

To narrow this problem down, there are three places that could be causing the ( outlet) GFCI to trip, a malfunction in the washing machine, a problem with the downstream wiring (aka load side of the GFCI-other items connected on same circuit), or the GFCI outlet itself. If there isn't anything downstream, then plugging the washing machine into another GFCI outlet, or simply swapping out the outlet for a known good GFCI outlet, will identify if the outlet itself is faulty.
If the outlet trips when the washing machine isn't running and isn't even plugged in, then there's a fault in the wiring on the load side of the GFCI outlet.
If the issue is neither of the above, then running the washing machine and monitoring to see which step is occurring when the trip happens will isolate what part of the washing machine may be leaking current to a ground. It could be a certain water level, a motor being engaged, a transition step in the controller, etc
Beware some techs believe that most Washing machines or any other motor should not be on a GFCI! Should be a dedicated single receptacle. If there are other outlets on the washer GFCI, replace that GFCI with a single receptacle and put the GFCI on the next jump in order to protect other outlets.

Another item to check is ur lid switch which may have gotten moister inside and created a short_ or broken open and the rubber seal dried out over time, and the switch assembly will be exposed. water can splash onto the assembly, somehow causing the GFCI to trip. In any event, if you are having trouble with your washing machine stopping mid-cycle for any reason, test and replacing the lid switchis probably a worthwhile idea, as it is cheap and easy to replace.

On my trailer the gfci is a seperate button in the fuse panel that shuts down the 120v outlets, all the lights run off the 12v so they continue to work, does your microwave and ac work?

A GFCI detects shorts in an electrical system and isolates power to prevent that device from harming other components upstream. GFCI's do go bad so that possibility exists. However, I would recommend trying to plug in your refrigerator into another outlet in your kitchen that has a different GFCI plug. If it does not trip then the GFCI needs to be replaced. If you do not have another available GFCI outlet and you plug it into a regular outlet, your breaker for that service line MAY trip. Better off testing with another GFCI. If your second GFCI trips, then the problem is with your refrigerator...meaning you have a short in your refrigerator. If you think this is something you can troubleshoot...BE CAREFUL!!! Always unplug your refrigerator before going into the components of the refrigerator. One thing you can do is turn both the freezer and refrigerator temperatures OFF or to their lowest setting. Plug your refrigerator in and see if the GFCI trips. If it trips you have a major short...probably in the bottom of the refrigerator. If it does not trip, turn the freezer temperature on first and see if it will run without tripping the GFCI. If it runs, then turn the freezer temp OFF. Then repeat the process testing the refrigerator components. Ice makers have been known to generate shorts in the system as well. There are various ways to troubleshoot a fridge. If you do not have the required electrical troubleshooting skills then PLEASE call a service technician.

In workshop areas, the NEC specifies GFCI (ground fault circuit interruptor) outlets.
If you replaced any GFCI outlets, there could be 2 possible problems:
(1) modern GFCI outlets will pass zero voltage if wired backwards (i.e. a load/feed reversal).
check the load/feed wiring of all GFCI outlets, to make sure its correct.
The feed side of the GFCI outlet is wired directly to the breaker, and the load side feeds power
to the remainder (the downstream side) of the circuit (therefore protecting the entire downstream
side of the circuit).
(2) older GFCI outlets could need to be reset if wired correctly - check the reset button(s) just to
make sure that they (and any downstream outlets) are receiving voltage.
Assuming that no GFCI outlets were part of the replacement process (or that your GFCI outlets
are correctly wired), your check for the presence of 240 VAC
should begin at the outlet/switch closest to the 240VAC double pole breaker, and proceed from there (looking for that 240VAC at each device with your 2-prong tester) along to the end
of the circuit until the problem is identified.
What this implies is that you have created (or will create) a schematic or circuit diagram of the
circuit involved - including switches, wires, and outlets (240V and 120V) - and then use that as a
resource to trace the possible sources of the problem from the breaker to the problem.
Here's the question I would want you to answer as you create your circuit diagram:
How did a 240V table saw get on the same circuit as a 120V washer and/or 120V switch(es)?
It seems like during the process of circuit tracing/diagram creation, you may find
that you're dealing with parts of more than 1 circuit, rather than just one. Check the breaker box
for any breakers that are in the "Tripped" position - and diagram those circuit(s) too.
What I would suspect is a wiring problem/mistake with the 1st device (switch or outlet) that is
supposed to feed power to the rest of the circuit, but fails to pass power on to the remainder of the circuit - or that that first device is actually wired to a second circuit with a tripped breaker.

Another thing to check is that your shop may be on its own sub-panel, with the table saw
on a 240VAC circuit, and the washer on its own 120VAC circuit. In this case, the
total curent draw may have tripped the MAIN breaker to this sub-panel in the MAIN breaker
panel (i.e. none of the breakers in the sub-panel were tripped, but the main breaker feeding the
ENTIRE sub-panel tripped, and this (double pole) breaker is located in the MAIN breaker panel).
In this case, the fix would be to reset the double pole breaker in the main panel that feeds the
shop sub-panel, bringing all the sub-panel circuits on line.

The last thing to suspect/check for is a fault in the wire itself, which is the most difficult problem to
diagnose. The fix to a bad wire would be re-fishing a new wire from the breaker box to the 1st
device box - no electrical inspector will require the removal of old wires from walls - so long as they
are not live.
What would make your life alot easier, and what helps electricians diagnose these problems so
quickly, is an electrical field tester (a.k.a. "chirper" tester), which would allow you to check
the wire as it leaves the breaker box to the point where the electrical field disappears.
At the point (point in the wire/outlet/switch) where the chirper stops chirping, you've found your
fault. At Home Depot/Lowe's/electrical supply store, a electrical field tester will set you back
about $8 to $20, depending on whether you opt for one that just lights an LED, or one that
lights and LED and also chirps.

Not intended to offend;
1. If using A/C (house electrical power), please check if electrical wall outlet is active. Attempt to plug-in another electrical device such as a lamp, clock, radio, etc.. If the electrical wall outlet has top and bottom plugs, try the top and then the bottom plug to see which one works. Sometimes, the top outlet will not work, yet the bottom outlet does work. The wall outlet should be replaced by qualified technician.
2. If both outlets do NOT work, and the outlet is GFCI breaker protected, maybe pressing the RESET switch on the outlet will power-up the outlet.
3. If the outlet is NOT GFCI breaker protected, check your electrical fuse box for a tripped fuse. Sometimes, a tripped fuse is NOT visible. May have to trip the specific fuse or all fuses to off, then back on. Recheck the wall outlet.
4. Once your know the outlet is live, check the power cord (a/c adapter for laptops) to make sure they are securely plugged-in to both the wall outlet AND the PC or Laptop.

Will need more information once the above steps are taken:

Is it a Desktop or Laptop?
Make and Model (if known)?
Any lights (glowing) on the desktop or laptop?
Any lights on the A/C adapter if its a laptop?

from online Microwave Repair Manual: Totally dead oven (no lights, no clock, no display, no fan, no heat...)First, check power to the outlet using a lamp or radio you know works. The fuse or circuit breaker at your service panel may have blown/tripped due to an overload or fault in the microwave oven or some other appliance. You may just have too many appliances plugged into this circuit - microwave ovens are high current appliances and should be on a dedicated circuit if possible. If you attempt to run a heating appliance like a toaster or fryer at the same time, you *will* blow the fuse or trip the circuit breaker. A refrigerator should never be plugged into the same circuit for this reason as well - you really don't want it to be without power because of your popcorn!

If you find the fuse blown or circuit breaker tripped, unplug everything from the circuit to which the microwave is connected (keep in mind that other outlets may be fed from the same circuit). Replace the fuse or reset the circuit breaker. If the same thing happens again, you have a problem with the outlet or other wiring on the same branch circuit. If plugging in the microwave causes the fuse to blow or circuit breaker to trip immediately, there is a short circuit in the power cord or elsewhere.

The microwave oven may be powered from a GFCI outlet or downstream of one and the GFCI may have tripped. (Removing a broken oven lamp has been known to happen.) The GFCI outlet may not be in an obvious location but first check the countertop outlets. The tripped GFCI could be in the garage or almost anywhere else! Pushing the RESET button may be all that's needed.

Next, try to set the clock. With some ovens the screen will be totally blank following a power outage - there may be nothing wrong with it. Furthermore, some ovens will not allow you perform any cooking related actions until the clock is set to a valid time.

Assuming these are not your problems, a fuse has probably blown although a dead controller is a possibility.

While you can do some repairs on your microwave, what you don't know can kill you... even on an unplugged microwave, so make sure you understand the dangers and how to reduce them before you try anything inside a microwave. If you want to do more yourself, go to the link at the top of this post.

Usually the washer circuit is a seperate 20A circuit. The lights would be on a different circuit usually 15A. Check your panel and see if there is a 20 breaker tripped. Hopefully your panel is labeled (or it should be) Are you saying this tripped while using the extension cord? Another possibility is that it is controlled by a GFCI outlet. You can connect additional receptacles to a GFCI outlet to protect them. Check to see if you have a GFCI receptacle tripped (in garage, bathrrom etc)

Yes. Refrigerators should not be on gfci protected circuits. They should have a dedicated 120v circuit .If your kitchen is new enough to be wired with gfci breakers ,it should also have an outlet dedicated for the refrigerator.

Ck your gfci breaker in your wash room or bath room. If this dosn't fix it it may be an internal fuse. If this is the case you will need to find what caused breaker to blow or it will happen again.