Question about Refrigerators
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Icemaker does not make ice
Sometimes an icecube gets caught up in the tray causing a 'rattling' noise when it tries to operate and also causing it to not produce ice. Lift up the lid, take out the wedged ice cube and it should start to work again.
Posted on Jul 07, 2009
The red light should flash twice , pause then flash twice constantly . If you close the flap on the left side , then the light should go off . This shows the optics (ice maker cut off ) are good .
Check the black tube ( fill tube ) , which puts water into the ice maker , to see if it is iced inside . If so , then the water valve behind the refrig is bad . It seeps into the tube and freezes , blocking the water flow .
Pour about 2/3 cup of water into the ice maker . If it freezes and dumps , then the water valve needs replaced . If it doesn't dump , and stays frozen in the ice maker , replace the ice maker . Also , make sure the coils under the front of the refrig are clean , as this will cause warmer temp in the freezer and the ice maker needs 5 degrees to operate .
Posted on Sep 27, 2009
Testimonial: "Will try suggestions. Thanks!"
HI. First, you will need to rule out any standard issues that will cause this. Check the internal, and external feed lines for any obstructions. Make sure that the internal lines are not frozen, or kinked. If the lines check out ok, move on to the water filter(if equipped).
In most units, there will be a filter, present. These devices are set to operate on a particular time frame. If their filtering limit is met, the filter will stop filtering water, thus, not allowing the fluid to flow, at all. Make sure that the filter is up to date. If you have verified that the filter is ok, move on to the water inlet valve assembly.
The water inlet valve is located behind your refrigerator. Find the water supply line coming into the valve and turn it off at the source (typically under the sink). Disconnect the supply line. Remove the screws that secure the inlet valve in place.
The water inlet valve is connected by two wires. Label the wire placement on the water inlet valve before disconnecting the wires. The wires are connected to the terminals with slip on connectors
Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to Remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.
Inspect the filter screen where the supply line connects. Remove any debris or deposits that may have built up using a toothbrush, or warm running water. If you cannot clear the clog, it will be necessary to replace the valve (the filter is not removable on most inlet valves).
Test the water inlet valve for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X100 (if available, otherwise use the nearest ohm setting). Place a probe on each terminal. the multimeter should display a reading of 200 to 500 ohms. Close inspection of the inlet valve and especially the coil may reveal the exact ohm resistance rating to test for. If the water inlet valve does not pass this test, it should be replaced.
Now. If the inlet valve is operational, and it has passed the above inspection, this will lead to a faulty inlet switch. This will be located, and mounted on the ice maker module board. First you must make sure of the design. Most ice maker control sectors are the module type and some are the traditional type. the traditional type is refereed to as a component ice maker. These are easier to work on. They have the gear components exposed, just behind the face plate. Modular units have holes in the module's face plate for test probes. If you see several holes, each marked with a letter, it is a modular unit. These are not serviceable. You will need to replace the entire module, if this is your type. The inlet switch is not accessible. The ejector motor, and mold heater are the only components that can be tested on a module style ice maker.
To determine which model you have, Remove the outer face plate. If there is a knob, pull it off first, then pry off the face plate with a small screwdriver. If it is a component style ice maker, follow the procedure below to test the inlet switch. if it is a module type, simply replace the entire ice maker. it is not repairable, due to the fact that the inlet switch is not accessible.
component ice maker inlet inspection procedure:(unplug the unit before attempting this inspection)
First you will need to Remove the entire ice maker form the unit.The unit is usually mounted to the freezer case by two or more screws. Remove the bottom screws first. While supporting the ice maker, Remove the remaining top screws. Unplug the ice maker from the freezer cabinet if you have not already done so already. Just along the the edge, nearest the shutoff arm, a pin protrudes through the mounting plate. The arm pin has a spring under the mounting plate. Reduce the tension on the spring by moving the shutoff arm into the "on" position, down, against the ice maker structure.
the inlet switch is located on the mounting plate, near the cam. the inlet switch is mounted on a thin plastic insulator and can be differentiated from the holding switch which sits on a thick spacer. the inlet switch also uses only two wires, while the holding switch uses three. Remove the switch by removing the two screws that hold it in place. The switch is connected by two wires. Label the wire placement on the switch before disconnecting the wires. The wires are connected to the switch with slip-on connectors.Firmly pull the connectors off of the switch terminals NOTE_ If the connectors are corroded, try to clean them. if the connectors cant be cleaned, simply, replace them.
Now, it is time for the testing section of the procedure.Test the switch for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to the side terminal and the second probe to each of the other terminals. The reading should be zero on one terminal and infinite on the other. Now, repeat the test while depressing the switch, the readings should now be the reversed. If the switch fails the test, it should be replaced.
* NOTE_ If you have the component type, i would verify motor functions, as well. Test the motor for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X10. Touch one probe to the wire from the wire cap. Touch the other probe to each of the two other wires in turn. The reading should be between infinity and zero for each wire.If the motor test results in a zero or infinity reading on either wire, the motor should be replaced.
Posted on Jan 07, 2010
Check to see whether the ice maker has been turned off. Here's how to check. Look for a wire along the right side of the ice maker that looks a bit like a coat hanger. If this wire is in the raised position, the ice maker is turned off. On some units you simply lower the wire to the down position to turn the ice maker on. On others, you lower a small red plastic lever to lower the wire. If the wire is in the proper position check the freezer temperature, it should be between 0-8 degrees Fahranheit. If it is warmer than 10-12 degrees, the ice maker may not produce any ice. Check your door seals and thermostat, repair/replace as necessary.
Posted on Apr 01, 2010
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