Worst case its the transmission motor but it can be as easy as replacing the doglegs that makes it agitate
SOURCE: Maytag Neptune front loader, model
The LR can means that the motor has failed or the spinner shaft is seized to the bearing.
Check the wiring harness to the motor it may be loose.
See if you can turn the tub by hand.
If the tub is free and the wiring harness is good preform the motor test.
You will find the test paper in the console.
SOURCE: Maytag Neptune MAH5500BWW Will not spin
maytag neptune washers do have a motor problem and they have a kit to replace the motor and motor controller.
when the motor fails, it wont wash or spin. most units have a 5 year parts warranty and should be replaced with a free part, but you will have to pay an authorized servicer to do this.
if it is over 5 years then i would call maytag and see if they will help you with an authorization for repair.
most of the time they will provide the part for free. just call the 800 # and ask for help. they wont send you the part but might give you some help with the parts.
SOURCE: neptune washer mod.#mah5500bww---washes,drains at
The machine control detected that the rotor is "locked". It happens when no tach signal is sent to the machine control from the motor control either due to a faulty motor control board, a faulty drive motor, or a faulty wiring harness connection between the motor control board and the machine control board.
Disconnect power to the washer prior to servicing to avoid the risk electric shock. Open the washer door and turn the drum manually to verify whether the rotor or the tub bearing is stuck or not. Proceed below when the drum rotates freely; otherwise refer to the next troubleshooting guide.
Remove the four screws from the rear of the console attaching it to the rear cover plate. Cushion the top cover of the washer with a cloth. Grasp the top of the console and gently rock it forward away from the rear cover plate, and then flip the console to the top of the washer to access the machine control board.
Disconnect the 4-pin and 3-pin wiring harness connector at the left bottom of the control board including the 3-pin connector on the right bottom side. Clean the connectors and the pin terminals using an old toothbrush or any similar tool and electronic cleaning solution; 70% alcohol will do.
Hold only the edges of the control board when cleaning the terminals to avoid electrostatic discharge (ESD) to the electronic components that may cause damage to the board. Touching the unpainted part of a concrete wall or metal water pipeline repeatedly will help prevent ESD damage.
Reseat the wiring harness connectors repeatedly. In this manner, the terminals are thoroughly cleaned to ensure a good connection.
Reinstall the console by aligning the hooked tabs at the bottom of the console with the slots in the top cover. Insert the tabs into the slots and rock the console back into position then secure it to the rear cover plate with the four screws removed previously.
SOURCE: Lr code keeps popping up on my neptune mah5500bww
The LR error on your non-spinning Maytag Neptune is usually, though not always, accompanied either by a burn spot or a blown fuse on the Motor Control Board.
Maytag upgraded the motor and motor control board because this problem was so prevalent. Big rash of these a few years back... and insludes replacement instructions with the kit.
The LR code means "locked rotor" - the control is not seeing the motor turning.
The image below contains the wiring diagram for this washer as you requested but there are some other things to consider.
Usually when the LR code is displayed the motor has stopped turning for some reason.
By definition the LR code means the control has tried to turn the motor but was unable to.
The error code can be caused by to large of load, to much soap/suds in the water or a problem with the spin bearing.
The cause of the LR message can be little problem like suds or a major problem like the spin bearing and sometimes it's difficult to pin down.
You don't mention in your question if the LR code occurs every load or once a week.
Try running a rinse and spin cycle empty and see if the washer completes the cycle.
The 2nd image contains the information on how to enter and run a diagnostic cycle which may help pin the source of the problem down.
This test completes all functions of the washer is a short time. It will fill, tumble, drain and spin all is a few minutes.
At the end of a successful test cycle a PA should display which means "Passed" and is what you want to see.
Image 1: http://media.fotki.com/1_p,sqwrrqkkqkstsftxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/kkwrfdskkxkgbffwfww/1/1303472/5961857/image53872img-or.gif
Image 2:http://media.fotki.com/1_p,sqwtrsgdwsqtqsqxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/kkwrfdskkxkktggsfsw/1/1303472/5961857/image53908img-or.gif
From another source...
"Installing replacement motor, motor control harness, and motor control circut board.
Pretty easy install. On a scale of 1 to 10 I'd call it a 3.5.
If you can use a screwdriver, a wrench, and have played with legos before, you can probably do this job.
It took me about 3 hours to do, but this was with inferior tools, and two smoke breaks included.
Minimum tool requirements: Adjustable-head cresent wrench (8 or smaller handle), phillips head screwdriver, utility knife.
Recommended tool equirements: Small ratchet with socket set, ratcheting screwdriver with phillips head and small socket attachments, brew.
The instructions are pretty clear.
Once you pull the front panel off, there are two braces at 45 degree angles on the lower corners of the washer.
The instructions don't ask you to, but I would remove the brace on the left to make life easier.
This gives your arm more room to work and makes it easier to pull the motor out the front.
They ask you to remove the wiring harness from the motor first and then pull the harness out with the control board.
My wrench was too big to get to the bolt to remove the harness from the motor.
All I did was cut the harness - since they supply a new one - then pull out the control board, then pull out the motor.
As far as getting the pulley off, slip it on and off at the large wheel, this is much easier than taking it off at the small motor drive shaft.
The only other thing of note is to make sure you look at the diagram for the conectors a few times before you snap it together.
There are a few ways you could hook it up wrong so pay attention. There should be no loose ends when you finish.
Also, I couldn't get the flange back on on the rear acess panel when closing it up, but it doesnt seem to serve muc purpose besides asthetics, so I tossed it.
The $200 for the parts and shipping was well worth it. I saved about $150-250 to do it myself...."
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