Drain hose or drain pump is obstructed.
SOURCE: washer stops at various times during the cycle
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Below I give you some solutions picked from this site. There are five down para-wise You may find some very useful:
I had same error code F11 and DL.....I sprayed the door lock
(inside) with WWD40......so far works OK
I had the same F11/DL problem. I tighten the two screws on
the door latch and it's working great. for now
Just some part numbers to help if you need to order parts.
For the GHW9200LWO Washer (Sanitary Cycle Model)- the part number for the CCU
(Microcomputer or main computer) is 8181924. The part number for the Motor
Control Unit (MCU) is 8182706. I did a search for the part numbers and found
the CCU for $79.90 shipping included - the same part from Whirlpool was $190
plus with shipping included. I put the CCU on and my washer works perfectly again.
Hope this helps someone since I had such a hard time finding out the correct
part numbers. Whirlpool first sent me the MCU even though I specifically told
them it was not that part but the CCU.
DL is a door lock error. This is usually an indication of a
bad door latch. F11 is a serial communications error from the Central Control
Unit CCU (which is your main computer). If the door latch is defective it could
be generating the communications error code as well. A defective CCU can also
give the same symptoms, though. Before replacing any parts, however, double
check all you connections to make sure you don't have any loose wires. The
least expensive of the two possible solutions would be to replace the door
latch (about $50). The CCU can run between $150 and $250. Hope this leads you
in the right direction.
I wanna thank all of you for your input. I had the "DL
F-11" code also. My washer would run 12 minutes and then stop with the
annoying beep and error codes. After learning that the "DL" was the
door lock, I decided to order the part online for 50 bucks. After I placed the
order I decided to take this $50 thing apart and give it a look-see. (Boys like
to tear things apart!)
There is a solenoid inside that actuates the lock. My finding was that there was
some hardened goo that seeped out of the solenoid. It didn't look good! I
believe this to have caused an electrical imbalance that the computer didn't
like, thus sending it into error mode.
Removal and installation was a snap. First I took the top off. Then to make
room for my arm to get to the door-lock, I pushed the drum all the way back and
held it in place by wedging a shoe in the front end. Then I pushed the drum to
the side, opposite the door-lock, and wedged it with another shoe. This gave me
plenty of room to reach the door-lock. Unplug the three connectors and remove
the three screws from the front side of the door-lock. (Inside door at 2:00.)
Reverse order for the install!
Thanks again for your posts which led me in the right direction!
SOURCE: my washer starts filling then clicks off ,i press
Call up Maytag they are great helping you with any problems.
remove from the lower part of the washer, lay washer down on side to gain access, lay on left side as looking a washer and you will have some water come out so have cloths handy, remove the pipes and fixing plate, and remove the filter cap before removing.
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