This thermostat is supposed to work with a heat pump and heat transfer system into other rooms.
Attached is the manual for the thermostat. 18 is pretty cold as far as a heating set point. For cooling you don't want to set it any lower than 20.
https://www.controlstraders.com/assets/brochures/SIE-RTH-RAA31.pdf
SOURCE: Temperature varies 13 degrees around setpoint on aux heat
I don't have the book for this particular unit but, check the sequencers that control the electric heat mode, as the regulator heat pump works good. The part may have a time or temperature delay that is too long for you. Also if it has a remote thermostat, check the heat anticipate setting. You will have to check the installation manuel, but its usually .6 to .8, but I don't think that is the problem.
SOURCE: heat pump auxiliary heat does not turn on
Turn up your outside thermostat in the outside unit.
You should have about 3 degrees difference in one stage to the next. So I would change the thermosat with one that has three stages of heat.
SOURCE: danfoss thermostat control frozen at
See the link on the Danfoss site. This has helped me http://heating.consumers.danfoss.com/xxNewsx/5dbcb2f9-e888-4d2d-9761-7470786749c9_CNP1.html
SOURCE: Furnace doesn't reach desired temperature
One of two things you can try. Do you own a volt ohm meter? Anytime your unit cycles short like it is doing the control circuit which on this one is 24 volts that engages relays and controls the gas valve to open and close. I am thinking the heat exchanger is getting so hot it is tripping the upper limit which for the most part is around 180 degrees. So next time it turns off take your ohm meter and with the power to the whole unit off. Either turn the breaker off or there is a light switch that is real close to unit turn it off. Undo the two wires to the gas valve and ohm them out. You should have continuity if you get nothing check each limit switch should have a couple. Undo wires to them and check. If you find one that is open more then likely the upper one. They are a safety device that keeps the unit from getting too hot.
There might be another option increase the speed of your fan motor to get the heat out of furnace quicker. Look at the circuit board notice the fan wiring going to it. The Red wire from fan is low speed look to see if it is on HEAT on the board. You should have 4 speeds to pick from you could take the black off of COOL and swap wires and test the unit by doing that. I'm going to put a solution on this so I can come back to it quicker. Even though we a just testing it for now. ken
SOURCE: thermostat problem ?
If you start by looking on your gas valve, you should find the correct amperage to set the heat anticipator at. I am not sure if you have a forced hot water system or a steam system, but depending on the case, you may also have a second problem, which is easily addressed. If you have forced hot water, the upstairs baseboard/radiators may be airbound and need to be bleed. If you have steam, you may need to slow down the downstairs valves, and open the upstairs valves to get a balance. Hope this helps
Setting a thermostat has nothing to do with outdoor temperature, but more to do with what is a comfortable setting for you and your utility bill.
A common misconception associated with thermostats is that a furnace works harder than normal to warm the space back to a comfortable temperature after the thermostat has been set back, resulting in little or no savings. This misconception has been dispelled by years of research and numerous studies. The fuel required to reheat a building to a comfortable temperature is roughly equal to the fuel saved as the building drops to the lower temperature. You save fuel between the time that the temperature stabilizes at the lower level and the next time heat is needed. So, the longer your house remains at the lower temperature, the more energy you save.
Another misconception is that the higher you raise a thermostat, the more heat the furnace will put out, or that the house will warm up faster if the thermostat is raised higher. Furnaces put out the same amount of heat no matter how high the thermostat is set; the variable is how long it must stay on to reach the set temperature.
In the winter, significant savings can be obtained by manually or automatically reducing your thermostat's temperature setting for as little as four hours per day. These savings can be attributed to a building's heat loss in the winter, which depends greatly on the difference between the inside and outside temperatures. For example, if you set the temperature back on your thermostat for an entire night, your energy savings will be substantial. By turning your thermostat back 10 to 15 degrees for 8 hours, you can save about 5 to 15 percent a year on your heating bill -- a savings of as much as 1 percent for each degree if the setback period is eight hours long.
Hope this helps..........
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