Riccar 4000 series. Need to replace power cord. How do I get to motor? Do I need special tool because some screws are deep & have small opening so can't see screw head type.

Question edited for clarity and typo.

There is no wiring diagram available

https://www.google.com/search?q=riccar+8850+wiring+diagram

There is a video though



Or you could ask the maker?

Vacuum Cleaner Operating Instructions

Riccar http://media.riccar.com > 8000_Owners_Manual
How to Replace the Agitator Belt. (Models 8750 8850 & 8800 only). Unplug the units power cord. Turn the unit over and remove the bottom plate as described in ...
13 pages

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If your Riccar R-200 vacuum is not working in the areas where the foot pedal is located, it is possible that there may be an issue with the motor or the motor wires. Here are a few steps you can take to try and troubleshoot the issue:

1. Check the power cord: Make sure that the power cord is securely plugged into the wall outlet and into the vacuum itself. If the cord is loose or damaged, it could be causing the issue.
2. Check the foot pedal: The foot pedal is what activates the vacuum's motor, so it's possible that there could be an issue with it. Make sure that the pedal is not stuck or obstructed, and that it is moving freely.
3. Check the motor wires: If the issue is not with the power cord or foot pedal, it's possible that there could be an issue with the motor or motor wires. To check this, you'll need to open up the vacuum and inspect the motor and wires for any visible damage or loose connections. Be sure to unplug the vacuum before attempting any repairs.

If you're not comfortable troubleshooting or repairing the vacuum yourself, it may be best to take it to a professional repair service or contact the manufacturer for assistance.

Riccar uses an external thermal reset which is more reliable than most brands which use a thermal reset built into the motor. On your Riccar it will be on the back on the bottom left. It is a little tiny button that you epwill hear "click" when you push on it if it has been popped. If not it will not push in and you won't hear the click. The older models did not all have a reset button. If you have to keep pushing the reset it means that most likely you have a clog somewhere or the bag is full. It's rare but occasionally a thermal reset button may go bad and need replaced.

First locate screw pack (you will need a Phillips screwdriver). 2 long Phillips screws with hex nuts, 2 short Phillips screws. Should be taped to under part of handle.

2, Put upper handle into lower handle.

3, feed the power cord through the tool caddy from the flat side. Place caddy to handle so the hex shaped holes on upper portion.

4. Place the hex nut in the hex shaped hole and insert long bolt through the front of the handle. Do the same on the other screw and tighten them snuggly. Be careful not to over tighten them.

5. Insert small screws into lower 2 holes through the back side of the lower hose rack. Turn until tightened.

6. Attach tool(s) (that would be a small brush or the pet brush attachment to end of hose and on the attachment holder on front of upper handle.

7. Wrap hose around large holder closest to handle and power cord is wrapped around outer holder with rotating clamp.

Hope that helped

Remove the bag door cover, remove the screws holding the cover over the switch and wires coming into the body of the vacuum. Remove two screws holding the cord in place, unhook the old cord and install the new one the same way the old on was

Remove the dust compartment door to gain access to the cover over the wiring and switch compartment. Remove three screws to gain access to be able to remove the old power cord and slide it through the hole in the back of the vacuum. Put new cord through the hole and wire back up as it was before.

Your. 8650 is likely well over 20 years old. It has carbon brushes in the motor that may need replaced but your best bet Is to take it to your Riccar dealer to diagnose it or you might replace the wrong thing. You have a very durable long lasting machine obviously but there are minor things that need occasional service to keep it running properly for many more years. This series started with the 8600 models of which I still have many brought in for annual service. There has been an 8700 and 8800 series and now the latest 8900 series which has been out well over 10 years.

Greetings from GoVacuum.com,

I just wanted to let you know that we are an authorized Riccar dealer, and we can certainly get the replacement wheels for your Riccar 4812 upright vacuum cleaner.

We stock some parts, and what we don't stock we'll order for you. We don't currently have the wheels on our site, but if you still need the wheels, you may email me at [email protected].

We do stock a lot of parts for your 4812 Riccar, including the following;

Riccar 4000 Series Bags That Fit the 4812. Paper Bags 12pk.
http://www.govacuum.com/ricc103.html

Riccar 4000 Series Exhaust Filters for the 4812 Part RF4-2;
http://www.govacuum.com/ricc117.html

Riccar 4000 / 8000 Series Drive Belts Part # A20-R2P
http://www.govacuum.com/ricc112.html

Foam Filter Underneath of Bag Riccar 4812 Part B622-0500
http://www.govacuum.com/ricc133.html

I look forward to helping you if you still need to get the wheels for your vacuum.

Thank you,

Chris J.
GoVacuum.com

I found the hidden screws under the cord rewind and power buttons.

It could be either the switch, the motor, or the cord reel. Try plugging it in and slowly feeding the cord in and out while clicking the power switch on and off. If the motor kicks on while doing this, you have an intermittent short in the cord reel.

If you remove the bag chamber lid, (on the s300 series merely opening it until it makes an awful cracking sound, and then lifting it off; on the s500 series you'll have to gently pry the tab just inside the hinge away,) you will be able to access the screws to remove the rear housing. Under the exhaust filter are two screws that will allow you to remove the control unit, and then there are about five screws on the top that will need to be removed if you need to go further.

The control unit contains the switch, (in many models, but it depends on your model...) which you can test continuity through by using a VOM. If the switch checks out ok, you can test continuity through the other electrical components on the underside of the control unit. If you find a component that does not have continuity, replace it. If they all appear functional, continue with the disassembly:

On the s300 series it is easiest to flip the machine upside-down after removing the top screws, and then lifting the base away from the top housing. This will give you access to the motor and the cord reel. On the s500 series you will just have to lift the colored plastic body up and away from the base.

What can occasionally happen with these cord reels is that they can wear out, allowing too much lateral slop of the actual reel assembly. You can shim this by using something on the axle in the center to push the reel assembly back against the contacts. I use a small rubber "doughnut," but pretty much anything non-conductive will do the trick.

If this doesn't restore electrical continuity, you'll probably need a new cord reel. I highly recommend against trying to do any further repairs on the cord reel itself, as it's a nightmare to deal with... especially if the main spring comes apart. Miele does not recommend replacement of any component of the cord reel, only the entire cord reel assembly.

Any other problems will have to be referred to a repair station, since it could then be either the motor or the motor control board.

Do NOT attempt to test the motor by directly connecting it to wall voltage, as the actual power applied to the motor when it is functioning is stepped down by the circuits attached to it, and attempting to "hotwire" it will fry the motor.

Hope this helps,

-R