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john pateman Posted on Jan 06, 2016

I have a kenwood kmc030 mixer, and i'm changing the motor. how do i get the plastic housing out so the motor can be removed?

The base needs to be removed, but no obvious means of doing it?

3 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Jul 05, 2008

SOURCE: Blakeslee (Kenwood) A717 mixer speed control

I had the same problem. Had to strip the machine down to get to the motor. On the top is a moving plate with various capacitors etc mounted. On the front side there was a Capacitor (At least I think it was) with the wire broken.
I resoldered it and the machine now works fine.

I hope this helps

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Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Mar 20, 2009

SOURCE: I have a KENWOOD electronic mixer (about 10 years old)

AFTER TALKING TO KENWOOD'S REPAIR SHOP ON THE PHONE, THEY SAID THEY WOULD HAVE TO OPEN UP THE WHOLE MIXER TO REPALCE THE SPEED DIAL ---WHICH WOULD COST NEARLY AS MUCH AS BUYING A NEW MIXER...TYPICAL.
IN ANY CASE THE PROBLEM WAS DUE TO THE POOR DESIGN OF THE INTERCONNECTION BETWEEN THE SPEED DIAL AND THE NYLON WHEEL THAT INTERFACES WITH IT. IN MY CASE, AND MOST LIKELY IN MANY OTHERS, THE PLASTIC PART OF THE INSIDE OF THE SPEED DIAL DEVELOPED STRESS FRACTURES AND EVENTUALLY CRACKED OFF COMPLETELY SO THAT THE SPEED DIAL WOULD SIMPLY SPIN AND HAVE NO EFFECT ON THE MOTOR EITHER TO START OR STOP IT OR INCREASE OR DECREASE THE SPEED.
IT WAS FAIRLY EASY TO SEE THE PROBLEM ONCE YOU REMOVE THE TWO SCREWS THAT CONNECT THE MOTOR TO THE METAL SWING ARM. THAT WILL ALLOW THE MOTOR TO DROP DOWN ABOUT A CENTIMETER OR HALF AN INCH.
TO FIX THE PROBLEM IT IS SIMPLY A MATTER OF FIGURING OUT _- HOW TO GET THE INSIDE OF THE SPEED DIAL TO RECONNECT TO THE NYLON DISC FROM THE MOTOR!

I DECIDED TO FIRST: USE A REGULAR HOUSE HOLD SEWING PIN (TWO OF THEM ONE FOR EACH SIDE OF THE WHEEL ASSEMBLY) TO SERVE AS A TYPE OF "PIN" TO SECURE THE TWO OBJECTS TOGETHER.
HEAT UP THE PIN UNTIL IT IS RED HOT!! AND USING SOME NEEDLE-NOSE PLYERS BEGIN TO PUSH THE PIN THRU THE PLASTIC (OF THE SPEED DIAL) AND FINALLY INTO THE NYLON DISK BELOW IT. IT MAY TAKE SEVERAL ATTEMPTS TO BURN THE SMALL HOLE BUT ONCE IT IS DONE A FINAL HEATED PIN OR VERY SMALL NAIL IS PUSHED THRU AND ALLOWED TO COOL THUS BECOMING STUCK!! DO THIS FOR BOTH SIDES IF YOU HAVE COME THIS FAR YOU WILL KNOW WHAT I MEAN.
NEXT I FILLED THE SURROUNDING WHOLE NEXT TO THE PIN AND ON BOTH SIDES WITH A VERY , VERY GOOD 2 PART EPOXY GLUE.. (TAKE YOUR TIME IT MAY TAKE SEVERAL HOURS TO FINISH IT BECAUSE YOU NEED TO USE THE TIME TO DO SEVERAL LAYERS OF EPOXY TO DRY.. THAT WILL HOLD THE SPEED DIAL LIKE A ROCK AND WILL BE BETTER THAN THE ORIGINAL !! AND BEST OF ALL IT SAVES THE MIXER AND DIDNT COST MUCH AT ALL!!
IN A NUT SHELL THE PINS FORM THE SAME FUNCTION AS REINFORCING RODS IN CEMENT TO HOLD IT TOGETHER ALSO GIVING THE EPOXY SOMETHING TO BIND TO !!

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Mar 25, 2009

SOURCE: kitchen aid heavy duty 325 watts mixer won't turn on

On my K5SS mixer, the brushes are aligned with the sliced off corner at 11 o'clock on the left and at 5 o'clock on the right. So the real key is in the suggestion from Mazlynn detailing the use of a flashlight to determine where the little tabs are located inside the brush holders.

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I have a KENWOOD electronic mixer (about 10 years old)

AFTER TALKING TO KENWOOD'S REPAIR SHOP ON THE PHONE, THEY SAID THEY WOULD HAVE TO OPEN UP THE WHOLE MIXER TO REPALCE THE SPEED DIAL ---WHICH WOULD COST NEARLY AS MUCH AS BUYING A NEW MIXER...TYPICAL.
IN ANY CASE THE PROBLEM WAS DUE TO THE POOR DESIGN OF THE INTERCONNECTION BETWEEN THE SPEED DIAL AND THE NYLON WHEEL THAT INTERFACES WITH IT. IN MY CASE, AND MOST LIKELY IN MANY OTHERS, THE PLASTIC PART OF THE INSIDE OF THE SPEED DIAL DEVELOPED STRESS FRACTURES AND EVENTUALLY CRACKED OFF COMPLETELY SO THAT THE SPEED DIAL WOULD SIMPLY SPIN AND HAVE NO EFFECT ON THE MOTOR EITHER TO START OR STOP IT OR INCREASE OR DECREASE THE SPEED.
IT WAS FAIRLY EASY TO SEE THE PROBLEM ONCE YOU REMOVE THE TWO SCREWS THAT CONNECT THE MOTOR TO THE METAL SWING ARM. THAT WILL ALLOW THE MOTOR TO DROP DOWN ABOUT A CENTIMETER OR HALF AN INCH.
TO FIX THE PROBLEM IT IS SIMPLY A MATTER OF FIGURING OUT _- HOW TO GET THE INSIDE OF THE SPEED DIAL TO RECONNECT TO THE NYLON DISC FROM THE MOTOR!

I DECIDED TO FIRST: USE A REGULAR HOUSE HOLD SEWING PIN (TWO OF THEM ONE FOR EACH SIDE OF THE WHEEL ASSEMBLY) TO SERVE AS A TYPE OF "PIN" TO SECURE THE TWO OBJECTS TOGETHER.
HEAT UP THE PIN UNTIL IT IS RED HOT!! AND USING SOME NEEDLE-NOSE PLYERS BEGIN TO PUSH THE PIN THRU THE PLASTIC (OF THE SPEED DIAL) AND FINALLY INTO THE NYLON DISK BELOW IT. IT MAY TAKE SEVERAL ATTEMPTS TO BURN THE SMALL HOLE BUT ONCE IT IS DONE A FINAL HEATED PIN OR VERY SMALL NAIL IS PUSHED THRU AND ALLOWED TO COOL THUS BECOMING STUCK!! DO THIS FOR BOTH SIDES IF YOU HAVE COME THIS FAR YOU WILL KNOW WHAT I MEAN.
NEXT I FILLED THE SURROUNDING WHOLE NEXT TO THE PIN AND ON BOTH SIDES WITH A VERY , VERY GOOD 2 PART EPOXY GLUE.. (TAKE YOUR TIME IT MAY TAKE SEVERAL HOURS TO FINISH IT BECAUSE YOU NEED TO USE THE TIME TO DO SEVERAL LAYERS OF EPOXY TO DRY.. THAT WILL HOLD THE SPEED DIAL LIKE A ROCK AND WILL BE BETTER THAN THE ORIGINAL !! AND BEST OF ALL IT SAVES THE MIXER AND DIDNT COST MUCH AT ALL!!
IN A NUT SHELL THE PINS FORM THE SAME FUNCTION AS REINFORCING RODS IN CEMENT TO HOLD IT TOGETHER ALSO GIVING THE EPOXY SOMETHING TO BIND TO !!
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