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Joseph Amato Posted on Oct 24, 2015
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Heat will not shut off

Not even when selecting air only. replaced the thermal kit and tested the resistance at the p4 connector, heating element tests ok - all show good. HELP please

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Steven Clarke

Steven Clarke

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  • Expert 222 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 24, 2015
Steven Clarke
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It sounds like you have a bad board.

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1helpful
1answer

GE Dishwasher won't heat water, heating element *seems* to be fine.
If it has a thermal fuse, check that. If not, most likely a control board issue
Read full answer
Dec 07, 2018 • GE Ovens
tip

Whirlpool Dryer Various Test Procedures - Part 2
TEST #4 Heater
This test is performed when either of the following situations occur: Dryer does not heat Heat will not shut off
This test checks the components making up the heating circuit. The following items are part of this system:
Harness/connection, Heater relay, Thermal cut-off, Thermal fuse, High limit thermostat, Gas burner assembly,
Centrifugal switch, Exhaust thermistor, Machine control electronics, Gas supply. Dryer does not heat:
1. Unplug dryer or disconnect power.
2. Remove the back panel to access the thermal components.
3. Perform TEST #4b. If the thermal fuse is OK, go to step 4.
4. Perform TEST #4c. If the thermal cut-off is OK, go to step 5.
5. Locate the high limit thermostat. Measure the continuity through it by connecting the meter probes on the
red wire and blue wire terminals. If there is an open circuit, replace the high limit thermostat and thermal cutoff.
Otherwise, go to step 6.
6. Perform TEST #4d. If this is OK, replace the machine control electronics.
Heat will not shut off:
1. Unplug dryer or disconnect power.
2. Access the machine control electronics, remove the P14 connector, then measure the resistance between P14-3 (red-white wire) and P14-6 (red-white wire) at the connector. If 5–15 k ohms are measured, replace the machine control electronics. If the resistance is greater than 20 k ohms, replace the exhaust thermistor.
TEST #4a Exhaust Thermistor
The machine control electronics monitors the exhaust temperature using the exhaust thermistor, and cycles the heater relay on and off to maintain the desired temperature. Begin with an empty dryer and a clean lint screen.
1. Plug in dryer or reconnect power.
2. Start the Timed Dry cycle.
3. If after 60 seconds, F-22 or F-23 flashes in the display and the dryer shuts off, the thermistor or wire harness is either open or shorted. Unplug dryer or disconnect power. Check wire connections at the machine control electronics and thermistor. If wire connections are OK, check exhaust thermistor resistance per step 5.
4. If F-22 or F-23 does not flash in the display, the connections to the thermistor are good. Therefore, check the exhaust temperature value at any or all of the temperature levels in question, using the Timed Dry cycle, and the following process: Hold a glass bulb thermometer capable of reading from 90° to 180°F (32° to 82°C)
in the center of the exhaust outlet. The correct exhaust temperatures are as follows:
TEMP
SETTING HEAT TURNS
OFF* HEAT TURNS
ON High 155° ± 5°F
(68°± 3°C) 10–15°F
(6–8°C)
below the
heat turn off
temperature Medium 140° ± 5°F
(60°± 3°C) 10–15°F
(6–8°C)
below the
heat turn off
temperature Low 125° ± 5°F
(52°± 3°C) 10–15°F
(6–8°C)
below the
heat turn off
temperature Extra Low 105° ± 5°F
(41°± 3°C) 10–15°F
(6–8°C)
below the
heat turn off
temperature The measured overshoot using the glass
bulb thermometer in the exhaust outlet can
be 30°F (17°C) higher.
5. If the exhaust temperature is not within specified limits, or you have come here from step 3, remove the P14 connector, then measure the resistance between P14-3 (red-white wire) and P14-6 (redwhite wire) at the connector. If the resistance is OK, check P14-3 and P14-6 to machine ground. If resistance is greater than 0 (zero), replace wiring harness. NOTE: All thermistor resistance measurements must be made while dryer is
disconnected from power. The following table gives temperatures and ranges for the associated thermistor resistance values.
Temp
F C
Res
kΩ
Temp
F C
Res
kΩ
50° (10°) 19.0 -22.0 80° (27°) 8.5-10.5 60° (16°) 14.8-16.8 90° (32°) 6.8-8.8 70° (21°) 11.5-13.5 100° (38°) 5.0-7.0 If the thermistor resistance does not agree with table, replace the exhaust thermistor. If the thermistor resistance checks agree with the measurements in the table, replace the machine control electronics.
TEST #4b Thermal Fuse
The thermal fuse is wired in series with the dryer drive motor.
1. Unplug dryer or disconnect power.
2. Access the thermal fuse by first removing the back panel.
3. Using an ohmmeter, check the continuity across the thermal fuse. If the ohmmeter indicates an open circuit,
replace the failed thermal fuse.
TEST #4c Thermal Cut-Off
If the dryer does not produce heat, check the status of the thermal cut-off.
1. Unplug dryer or disconnect power.
2. Access the thermal cut-off by first removing the back panel. .
3. Using an ohmmeter, check the continuity across the thermal cut-off. If the ohmmeter indicates an open circuit,
replace the failed thermal cut-off and high limit thermostat. In addition, check for blocked or improper exhaust
system.

TEST #4d Gas Valve
1. Unplug dryer or disconnect power.
2. Access the gas valve by removing the front panel and drum assembly.
3. Use an ohmmeter to determine if a gas valve coil has failed. Remove harness plugs. Measure resistance across terminals.
Read full tip
on Apr 11, 2009 • Whirlpool LER4634J Electric Dryer
1helpful
2answers

Heated drivers seat dont work on my 1998 lincoln contenital
It could be the heating element or the Driver heated seat module ! Do you know anything about automotive electronic's ? Circuit testing with a DMM - digital multi-meter ? This system has a element in the seat an the back . None work ?

  • Heated Seat Inoperative
  • Circuitry open/shorted.
  • Damaged heated seat heater elements.
  • Damaged heated seat module.
  • Damaged heated seat switch.
  • GO to Pinpoint Test G .

PINPOINT TEST G: HEATED SEAT INOPERATIVE G1 TEST HEATER ELEMENTS
  • Disconnect connectors C352 LH ( C356 RH) at heater modules.
  • Using an ohmmeter, measure resistance of heater elements according to the following chart:

    Connectors C352 LH; 356 RH Pin Circuit Pin Circuit 12 1067 (P/LB) 9 1066 (GY/LB)
Is resistance of elements 2.5-10 ohms?
Yes No GO to G2 . GO to G4 .
The seat heater module is under the driver seat .

G2 TEST HEAT SENSORS FOR OPEN CIRCUIT
  • Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance of sensors according to the following chart:

    Connectors C352 LH; 356 RH Pin Circuit Pin Circuit 11 1063 (O/LB) 10 1062 (R/LB) 6 1061 (BR/LB)
Is resistance more than 10,000 ohms?
Yes No REPLACE trim covers. RESTORE vehicle. RETEST system. GO to G3 . G3 TEST HEAT SENSORS FOR SHORT CIRCUIT
  • Using an ohmmeter connected to a known good ground measure resistance of Circuit 1063 (O/LB) at Pin C352 LH; Pin C356 RH.
  • Measure resistance of Circuit 1061 (BR/LB) at Pin C352 and Pin C356 .
Is resistance 0 ohms?
Yes No REPLACE trim covers. RESTORE vehicle. RETEST system. GO to G6 .
G4 TEST CIRCUITS BETWEEN HEATER MODULE AND HEATING ELEMENT CONNECTOR
  • Disconnect connectors C353 and C351 LH.
  • Disconnect connectors C355 and C354 RH.
  • Using an ohmmeter, measure resistance of circuits between module connector and heater element connector according to the following chart:

    Connectors C352 LH; 356 RH Pin Circuit Pin Circuit 12 1067 (P/LB) 11 1063 (O/LB) 6 1061 (BR/LB) 10 1062 (R/LB) 9 1066 (GY/LB)
Is resistance less than 5 ohms?
Yes No GO to G5 . SERVICE suspect circuit for open. RESTORE vehicle. RETEST system.
G5 TEST HEAT ELEMENT AND SENSOR CIRCUITS FOR SHORT TO GROUND
  • Refer to Circuit charts in G4.
  • Using an ohmmeter connected to known good ground, check resistance of circuits.
Is resistance less than 10 K ohms?
Yes No SERVICE suspect circuit for short to ground. RESTORE vehicle. RETEST system. Circuits satisfactory. REPLACE trim cover. G6 TEST HEATED SEAT SWITCH POSITION 1
  • Disconnect connector C352 LH ( C356 RH).
  • Make sure switch is in position 1.
  • Using an ohmmeter measure resistance between Pin C352 , Circuit 1018 (LG/O) and Pin C352 , Circuit 1019 (T/LB).
  • Measure resistance between Pin C356 , Circuit 579 (BK/O) and Pin C356 , Circuit 580 (BR).
Is resistance between 2.0 K and 2.75 K ohms?
Yes No GO to G7 . GO to G14 .
Read full answer
Jan 07, 2018 • Lincoln Cars & Trucks
2helpful
3answers

Heated driver seat doesn't heat on 2001 Buick Regal GS
You have probably burnt up the element as it is a 17 year old seat now. The elements are replaceable, but the labor is pretty spendy. To test it you will need a multimeter to check for continuity across the connectors that go to the seat heating elements and check for voltage at the car side of the connector. If you have 12v to one side of the connector and continuity to ground at the other side, and do not have continuity to the seat side between the connectors, you know it is a bad element.
Read full answer
Jan 02, 2018 • Buick Cars & Trucks
0helpful
1answer

Not heating, no fault codes, everything seems normal. Checked heat exchanger ok, flow switches ok, thermal reset ok just no power to the ceramic heating elements please help me ;-(
ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast:

Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)

Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or
overheating.

The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with avolt-ohm-multimeter (VOM)set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12 ohms. If the reading is higher ohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance.


Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,

Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.

In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.

Read more :http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.htmlGOD IS So GOOD !!!!
Read full answer
Apr 28, 2015 • Dryers
0helpful
1answer

Kenmore 300 dryer runs but does not heat
With the dryer off, use a volt/ohm meter and see if the heating element has resistance. If there is infinite resistance the element is bad. If the element tests OK, check the thermisters. They are usually button shaped parts that shut off the heat if it gets too hot. These and fuses need to be replaced if they have infinite resistance. Generally, these blow when you have lint build-up and the air can't flow.
Read full answer
Sep 02, 2014 • Kenmore Dryers
0helpful
1answer

Thermal fuse for kenmore dryer
located on the blower wheel housing.

GOD IS STILL GOOD !!!!

ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast:

Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)

Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or
overheating.

The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with avolt-ohm-multimeter (VOM)set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12 ohms. If the reading is higher ohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance.


Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,

Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.

In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.

Read more :http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.html
Read full answer
Aug 31, 2014 • Dryers
0helpful
2answers

The dryer stoped heating its like its only cold air

I will assume this is an electric dryer.

When asking for help, you should include the brand and model number to help get a great answer.

In my experience, these are the possible problems in order of how often they happen.

1) Thermal overheat sensor fails. This is a small electrical device that will turn off the heating element if it thinks the dryer is getting too hot. It will have 2 wires connected to it and a silver colored round metal piece that senses the heat. When this part fails, the heater will not turn on. Disconnect the wires from this sensor and verify that it has zero (0) ohms across the two connectors.

2) Heating element could be burned out. Disconnect the two wires from the heating element and verify that it has a low resistance. Replace it if there is no resistance.

3) The thermostat has failed. There is a part that monitors the heat in the oven and turns the heating element on and off. You test it the same way you test item #1 above.

4) Some dryers have a FLUFF setting where the dryer only blows cold air. The switch that selects the heat settings could be broken. You will need to test this switch by looking at the electrical schematic for the dryer and testing the switch as indicated.

5) The knob on the switch that chooses the heat setting could be pushed onto the shaft in the wrong position so it points to "hot" when it is actually set to "fluff." The simplest way to test this is to choose a heat setting one click, either direction, from the one it is on now. If you get heat, the knob is pointing to the wrong place.

Read full answer
Jan 14, 2011 • Kenmore Dryers
3helpful
1answer

Heating element is not getting hot. do I need a thermal fuse or new element and how would I tell? Where is the thermal fuse located?
There are only a few brands, that are equipped with a thermal fuse. If your brand is equipped with a thermal fuse, it will be mounted on the back side of the main control sector. The control sector can be a timer module, or a control board assembly. In most cases, if the element is not functioning, it will be the fault of a failed element. Use the procedure below to inspect the element for its operational value.

First, open the door and look into the tub and locate the heating element (if it is covered, remove the lower dish rack and cover). The heating element has two terminals which extend through the bottom of the tub, note the general location where they go through.

To access the heating element's wiring, remove the lower panel located beneath the door. The panel is usually held in place with two screws either above or below the panel. It may be necessary to first open the door to the dishwasher to reach the screws over the panel, then close the door to remove the panel.

Look into the lower access area and locate where the terminals come through the tub. Each terminal has a wire connected to it. Label the wires and the terminals so that they can be properly reconnected. Pull the wire off of each terminal; they are connected with a slip on connector. Firmly pull the connector, do not pull on the wire. You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers. Inspect the connector and terminal for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced. Test the resistance of the heating element using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1 and touch one probe to each of the terminals. A normal reading will be somewhere between infinity and zero. The exact reading differs by manufacturer and model. If the indicator does not move (infinite resistance) or moves to the other extreme of the scale (zero resistance) then the element is damaged and should be replaced.

NOTE_ If the element passes the test, the likely culprit will be a failed control sector.

Read full answer
Dec 20, 2009 • Kenmore 24 in. 16032 Built-in Dishwasher
1helpful
1answer

Whirlpool duet electric wil not heat
Remove 1 wire from the element . Your 220 V comes from ...110 motor , 110 control board . Check which wire is not getting 110 V , trace it and see which it comes from . That will tell you which one is defective .
Read full answer
Jul 30, 2009 • Whirlpool GEW9250 Electric Dryer
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GE Dishwasher won't heat water, heating element *seems* to be fine.

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