My geNerator starts baut the voltage meter reads zero, no electricity output.

if no power from feed lines possible open winding or burnt up stator

Ez test to determine if stator wiring is ok. This test works on generators that have two sets of 115v plugs and 220v plug. Use a 12v, 1amp ac power supply ( smaller ac power supply should work ok ). With generator not running, apply 12v to one of the 115v outlet plugs. Now verify 12v output voltage with meter at another 115v outlet on generator. Also verify that there is about twice the voltage at the 220 v outlet plug (should be about 20v - 24v) . If the adjoining 115 v outlet plug has no output or very little voltage or if the 220 volt plug has no output, most likely stator is damaged or breaker is off. If the stator is shorted voltage reading will be very low and power supply will heat up. If stator is open, there will be no voltage at second 115v plug or 220 v plug. If voltage is ok at the other outlet plugs as per test above then most likely problem is with voltage regulator, or brushes not making contact or armature winding open or just needs to be energized. Unplug the 12v power supply after test to prevent it from overheating. Most generators have two 115v windings that together power the 220v plug. When you energize one of the windings with the 12v power supply, the second 115v winding will be energized also and give you a voltage reading about equal to 12v. You will not damage the generator with this small voltage being input thru the plug. Good luck

EHow says: Electrical power is easily conducted through a moist or wet environment. When wood fibers contain moisture it can also conduct an electrical signal or voltage. This allows the moisture meter to act as a signal generator. The signal generator will output a small voltage into the wood fibers. The small voltage is typically supplied by a battery. The moisture meter contains an internal circuitry much like an ohmmeter. The ohmmeter reads the amount of resistance that an electrical circuit may employ in conducting electricity.

Read more: How Does a Moisture Meter Work? ' eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how-does_4924697_moisture-meter-work.html#ixzz2JRaS12Xt

Not sure what you mean "high voltage rpm power generator out", however many people have asked how to adjust the engine for proper voltage output. On generators with~out a voltage regulator, I adjust the engine RPM by using a digital voltage meter that has a Hz setting. Adjust the governor untill the meter displays 60 Hz. With the geneator producing 60 cycles, I know that the engine is turning 3600 rpm (the engine produces max hp when it is turning 3600 rpm). At this point, read the voltage output to verify that the range is between 115 ~ 120. On generators with a voltage regulator, verify/adjust that generator is producing 60 cycles then adjust voltage by turning screw at the regulator (some regulators are sealed with potting compound and can not be adjusted). If your power demands are not that great and you appliance can operate at 50 cycles, adjust governor as needed. Lowering to 50 cycles will also reduce output voltage. Good luck

The revolutions per minute are probably too high. You will need the appropriate screwdriver and a volt meter to adjust. Possibly have another person help you. Connect the volt meter to the output with the generator running. Locate the speed adjusting screw on the carburator and adjust it one way or the other until the voltage on the voltmeter reads 125volts. Before yoy begin adjusting the carburator take note the position of the screw and then count the turns in the event you have to return to the place you started.
Good Luck

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly.

Without a model number... I am guessing about what type / brand and MODEL of generator you have. I have to assume it is a Coleman Power mate.

Try flashing the field. Do this.. take and electric drill and plug into the outlets of the generator. Turn on the output power GENERATOR ON. Squeeze the drill trigger and rotate the chuck as fast as you can. This will induce voltage into the stator and they usually will start producing power. When it does produce power it will try to yank the drill chuck head out of your hand so keep that in mind.

If the above does not work...
Remove the small cover from the center of the endbell. It covers the end of the rotor shaft and has 2 brushes under the cover.
INSPECT the brushes visually (do not remove them yet)
(Generator OFF!)
Use a meter to read resistance by probing the electrical contacts of the brushes. You MUST read LOW resistance. This is the rotor winding.
No resistance or high resistance
Remove the brushes inspect for damage. Try to probe the slip rings of the rotor. (You might have to make a 14/2 Romex electiral wire extension to get some solid copper wires to touch the rotor slip rings) Again you must read LOW reistance.

If you have low resistance and the brushes are good.....
Reinstall the brushes. (TEST for AC) Start generator
STILL NO OUTPUT?!!!!
Use a meter on DC to read AVR voltage output to the brushes by probing the brush terminals. You should read 3 - 7 VDC. No voltage.... hmmmm Possibly an AVR problem but...

Try this.
Rig up a 9 Volt battery that you TAPE the wires to the battery terminals and the case of the battery
Just loosely connect the 2 wires to the brushes. Wrap the battery with a rag it might explode if you don't remove it fast enough. Your going to yank this off as soon as it produces power QUICKLY.

Plug in a light or a small fan so you can see that power is being produced. Let it run a few minutes before shutting it down.

To do anything else I need to know your generator model number to do winding and voltage regulator checks.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

I have the same problem and here is my troubleshooting steps I took.

1) Verified that the unit had no output with induction meter on cables coming out of top of generator head (three black and three white). You can use a volt meter too.
2) Checked that brushes were free and long enough.
3) Checked capacitor (condenser) was 130uF
4) Checked diodes

Those voltage readings MAY be normal.

The AC waveform may cause your meter to read inaccurately. You would need to use a TRUE RMS meter to accurately read the voltage.

The siple meters actually read the AVERAGE voltage and then are calibrated to mulltiply it by the "form factor" for a sine wave. OFTEN these generators don't produce a clean sine wave. A square-ish wave will read higher on the garden variety meters.

Compare the brightness of a lamp comparing to when run on your utility.

The frequency depends on engine speed ... yours is running a bit fast...check it under at least half load and if off, adjust the govenor slightly.

The rms voltage is what counts, because it tells how much power the output will deliver to a resistive load. Inexpensive multimeters on their AC ranges are usually average-responding rms-calibrated meters. This means they measure the average of the absolute value of the AC component of the signal, and display that average multiplied by about 1.11 (actually, pi over sqrt(8)), the ratio of rms to average value for a pure sine wave. That way, the meter will give the right rms reading for a sine wave.

If the signal is a square wave, where the average and rms values are equal, the average-responding meter will read 11% too high.

Many inverters put out a modified sine wave (MSW), which sits at zero for a while, goes to a constant positive level for a while, goes back to zero for a while, and goes to a constant negative level for a while to complete the cycle. The positive and negative parts of the signal have the same magnitude and duration.

The rms and average values of an MSW depend on its duty cycle D, the fraction of a cycle for which the signal is not at zero. In a well-designed inverter, the duty cycle will be adjusted when the DC input voltage goes up and down to maintain the nominal rms output voltage. If we use peak voltage Vp to mean the magnitude of the positive and negative voltages the signal goes to, then Vavg for an MSW is equal to Vp times D, and Vrms is equal to Vp times the square root of D.

The duty cycle for which an MSW will have the same rms to average ratio as a sine wave is 8 over pi squared, or 81%. For any duty cycle less than this, an average-responding meter will read a lower voltage than the inverter rms output, and for a duty cycle higher than this, the meter will read too high.

If your MSW inverter is putting out 120 volts rms and its duty cycle varies from 50% to 75%, the meter reading will vary from 94 volts to 115 volts. I avoid the problem by using a Radio Shack 22-174B true rms digital multimeter.

You need an multi meter, on the ohms scale. Short the two prongs on the cap out, removing any voltage on it. Put your meter to a mid range ohms scale. Touch the leads to the prongs on cap and watch your meter. It should start climbing in value and then go to 'OL' if it's digital. If it's an analog meter(with a needle) it will go all the way over to 'infinite. This means it's good.
If it's bad, it will just read 'OL' or go right to 'zero' meaning it's either shorted or open.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/craig_3fa289bf857b1a3c