Check the broiler element, and see if get the same reading.
Does the oven heat on normal "bake" settings? If so, the bottom element is fine, and it's the "brain" not telling the bake element to get hot.
SOURCE: Oven will not heat - Thermador SMW272 Electric Oven
since you said the broiler does work , take the wires off the broiler element and put on the bake . then when you put on the broiler the bake should work . the light bulb principle, just remember to wrap all loose wire with electrical tape and disconnect from wall while working.
SOURCE: Kenmore oven lower element sporadically heating.
When the food you're baking is done on top but not on the bottom--or when baking just takes far too long to finish--the bake element may be burned out.
You may get fooled into thinking it's working, because the oven is hot inside. But many electric ovens use the broil element, too, during the preheat and bake cycles. So the food may be getting heated only by the broil element, which causes poor baking results.
If the bake element is burned out, replacing it should solve the problem. Otherwise, you need to further troubleshoot the oven's electrical system to locate the defective wire or component.
SOURCE: broiler element comes on when "bake" is pressed
does the bake element come on at all?
if so, try the oven out. do a bake @ 350 allow it to pre-heat, and see if once the pre-heat is comlete, id the broil shuts off.
on many ovens at the beginning of the cycle during pre-heat both bake and broil elements are powered.
other than that it may be a control board, or a burnt and crossed wire in the harness.
SOURCE: GE Double oven flashing F2
The f2 code means that the oven temp sencer needs to be replaced.
SOURCE: Oven appears to start, takes forever to preheat,
This is what I would do: I would unplug the range and connect my test cord to your range cord. I use an ammeter along with my test cord to read the amp draw of the bake ignitor. If it cannot get above 3.5 amps I know the ignitor is bad or weak. Since the oven is working that means there is a good circuit. In order for the safety bi-metal to open the amp draw must reach 3.5 amps or better. So to me I am thinking bad ignitor. To get to it I remove the door oven racks and bottom, I then remove the flame spreader and unplug the quick connect to the ignitor. I remove the burner and ignitor and replace the ignitor on a work bench. I am too old to be bending over and trying to do any parts replacement inside an oven. LOL. I have a training film which shows how the silicone carbide ignitor works HERE. Post a model number and I may have a service manual, do not forget to rate the answer.
If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61
Testimonial: "This advise seems right on. Thanks for your fast and detailed advise. Steve"
310 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×