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Sir ,what are you trying to do ? Your Temp gauge isn't working ? Before you attempt to fix something you need to know how it works. What wire are you talking about ?
Coolant Temperature
The PCM sends engine coolant temperature data to the instrument cluster through the class 2 serial data line. The instrument cluster uses a look up table in order to determine needle deflection. The instrument cluster uses a smoothing filter in order to secure a continuous response.
The coolant temp. sensor is an input to the engine computer .
The e
This may only be a suggestion, but I had a similar problem with my 89 s10 with a 4.3l Engine and a 20 gallon tank. After days of diagnoses, I found the fuel pump was going bad. Replaced the pump and bingo, problem solved. This may not be your problem, but it is a start. Might want to check fuel filter. I have seen that to be a problem with other vehicles, especially, 4 cylinder engine and not so much on a Chevy. Good luck.
Wouldn't you actually look over the car & what the job entails, before you order parts? I would remove the ones your replacing & get the brand off them as well, so you try & get the original factory brand. Usually you just replace the front or upstream sensors, not the rear monitors, until they fail You ask about sensors,not knowing what ever Use Google to educate yourself long before you throw parts at something for no reason In the professional world,the best of the best few as there may be,actually test every component before anything ever gets replaced,failed or just preventative maintenance
It is probably the "cold start" cycle. A Temperature sensor will send a signal to the computer in order to make the fuel charge rich and change the timing. This will last less than 3 minutes on many cars.
The process is similar to the old "choke" system adding a timing change to the rich fuel mix. Many cars have 2 Temperature sensors and for those you want to change the one that does NOT work the dash gauge or light. The sensor you want is dedicated to providing temperature info to the computer.
The "F1" fault code implies a faulty oven temperature sensor. In order to diagnose which will require disconnecting the oven temperature sensor from inside the oven cavity and measuring the resistance using an ohm meter. The oven temperature sensor probe should measure approximately 1100 ohms at room temperature. Here is the temp. sensor to order.
E221 is an indication that the out side temperature sensor is faulty,
this could mean it's open circuit (no resistance) sensing temperature or could be it has came loose on outdoor pcb (circuit board The E242 refers to a fault code, test temperature sensor and replace and you should be problem solved
see photos attached for help in testing the sensor
I just answered a very similar issue on a similar van. I had an almost identical problem and it turned out to be a bad set of spark plugs! Be sure your battery is in good shape, cables are good (clean, tight, free of corrosion and where they terminate is clean, tight, no corrosion and not frayed etc...) If that's all good, a major tune up may be in order. The computer is only deciphering the info its given. Start with the simple things and work back. Please let me know if this fixed or changes the issue. I have more ideas if this didn't do it. Good luck!
Sounds like there is an issue with the Temperature Sensor that controls the gauge on your dash. The Temp sensor is located on the engine block. In order to assist you further in locating exactly where this sensor is i would need to know what engine is in this vehicle?
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