I have an Avanti gfit motorised t/mill.It has blown a fuse that is located on the circuit board.the fuse is rated 250volt/10amp.Where can I buy some more fuses, and how do I get a service technician to check it out.Isee no burnt wires or shadowing on the circuit board.

( one question i have is every time the ignition fuse blows do i need to replace the starter relay? ) NO ! You have a dead short to ground on one of the circuits that fuse feeds. Do you know how to find a short circuit ? Video's on youtube show how. The fuse that blows ,is it IGN - A 40 amp. located in the under hood fuse/ relay center ? That fuse feeds B+ voltage to the ignition switch ,which powers up other thing's ,fuse's etc.. Not just the starter relay ! I see five other fuse's that get power from that fuse when ignition switch is in the start or run position . In the I/P fuse panel the gauges fuse #4 10amp , air bag fuse #10 10amp , turn b/u fuse #16 20amp. , Plus trans fuse #20 10 amp ! Pull out these fuse an try to start the van. if the ignition fuse doesn't blow the problem is in one of these other fuse circuits. There is one more fuse that get's B+ power from the ignition switch and ign A fuse ,crank fuse fuse #8 10amp. this powers the control side of the starter relay .
You can find a free wiring diagram here http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html Enter vehicle info. year , make , model and engine . Under system click engine , under subsystem click starting. Click the search button then the blue link.
If you pull those fuse's i mention and it still blows the fuse look for a shorted ignition switch or wiring from ignition to the starter relay , not the relay itself. Park neutral safety switch . Isolate the circuit , pull the relay out of it's socket ,pull the crank fuse #8 in the I/P fuse box. with a ohm meter check to see if that part of the circuit is shorted to ground. Do you know how to do that ? Do you have a volt ohm meter ? You can buy one cheap at parts store .

go to www.fitness.manualsonline.com or www.iconservice.com
give your information about your equipment
God bless you

The first thing to do would be to hook up a factory or professional type scan tool an check for DTC'S - diagnostic trouble code's . This vehicle has very complex electronic's. Serial data communication network,class2 data bus . There are electronic modules inside the door's that control the lock's ,power window's , power mirror's . Your best bet ,take it to a qualified repair shop . Not a fuse problem , driver an passenger door module each have thier own power supply. Two circuit breakers ,PWR/WDO circuit breaker 30 amp. You could check DRVMDL 10amp fuse ,located in the rear fuse box , PASSMDL 10amp fuse rear fuse box , RRDR/MDL 10 amp fuse rear fuse box . Rear fuse box is under the back seat . None of the window's , lock's etc.. work from any door switch ?

ADJUST THE REED SWITCH ACCORDING WITH DIAGRAM.
NOW TIGH THE FLEXIBLE CORD FROM KEYPANEL VS DISPLAY BOARD AND THEN CONNECTOR FROM DISPLAY BOARD VS LOWER BOARD OR MAIN CONTROLLER BOARD.
If you can open the keypanel and clean with contact cleaner will be a good idea with carefully and patience. sincerely.
Finally if the problem persist you will 2 options: a) faulty display board and 2) Main controller board.

E.CUADRA
MANAGUA, NICARAGUA

The fuse is a 250volt 1.25 amp slow blo.
First thing I would do is check C6 to see if it is bulge or blown - regardless replace it with a 10ufd 100volt Non-polarity capacitor. If the fuse blows again unplug the blue wires from the transformer and plug in unit to an outlet. If fuse does not blow then problem is on PC board. I have a service manual for this item. Probable causes on PC board are Filter Caps, Bridge rectifier (DBA), Amplifier module, or fragments of C6 even causing shorts on board if it had blown.

I have bought C6 from MCM Electronics for under .50 cents but you have to put shrink tube on one lead and bend it back along the body and solder both leads in the board.

Good luck

High current fuses are circuit protectors that are part of the wiring harness for some electrical equipment. These, like fuses, open when the circuit load exceeds their amperage rating. High current fuses may be purchased from your Ford or Lincoln-Mercury dealer.
The high current fuse panel is located in the engine compartment on the left-hand fender apron.

IMPORTANT
Ford recommends that high current fuses be replaced by a qualified technician.

Check Position 20, 10AMP for PCM KAPWR (underhood )

This and other details can find in this link for Lincoln Continental - Owners Manual (page 274 and next)

Hope this helps (remember rated and comment this).

A diode/rectifer or voltage stabliser, or leaky capacitor in the power supply.
Also the main transistors in the power amp or if it has an output IC - that!
If you can in anyway disconnect the power supply section from the amp circuit, you can isolate which part is faulty. For if it blows when disconnected from the power amp, you know it's just the power supply that's gone. And if it does not blow - then it's the amp!

1-20amp-pwr outlet frt. 2-10amp-rear fog lights(export only)
3-15 amp-horn 4-10amp-hedlt low beam rt
5-10amp-hedlt low beam lft 6-20amp-bodycontrolmodule/pwr dr locks 7-spare 8-spare 9-10amp- rt pk lt /rt tail lt/trailer tow lt/cluster
10-spare 11-15 amp-flasher 12-15 amp-stop lts
13-10amp-bodycontrolmodule/cmtc/cluster 14-spare
15-10amp-pdc fuel pmp & auto shutdownrelays/skis
16-20amp-pwr outlet rear 17-15amp-rear wiper 18-20amp-radio choke relay 19-20amp-frt fog lts/trailer tow stop and turn lts
20-20amp-sunroof 21-spare 22-10amp-wiperswitch/frt and rear washer 23-10amp-lft park lt/lft tail lt 24-10amp-pdc blower motor relay 25-10amp-heatseatswitch/hvac controlhead/trailor tow battery charge 26-10amp-hedlt highbeam rt 27-10amp-hedlt highbeam lft
28-spare 29-15amp-heated seat module 30-10amp-heated mirrors/rearwindowdefrosterindicator 31-20amp-cigarlighter
32-10amp-radio/frtdoorlockswitches/bodycontrolmodule
33-10amp-skis/diagnostic connector 34-15amp-cluster/courtesy lts/radio/bodycontrolmodule/maplights/cmtc/underhood lt/vanity lts
35-spare 36-10amp-ignition run/start-orc/lft and rt siacm
37-10amp-ignition run only-orc 38-10amp-abs module/brake shift interlock solenoid 39-10amp-rear window defroster relay/flasher/backup lts

there is a fuse in the block where the power cord plugs in. you have to disassembe the unit and remove the circuit boards to get to it as far as I can tell. the fuse is a 250volt 5amp ceramic fuse 20mm. I have the same problem and just found the blown fuse but I am still looking for the replacement fuse to buy.

jeff

leeanncook..


if you find the fuse blown, replace it mini fuse type 250volt 3ampre. and once you replace and it blown again. there have a problem of your audio I.C output. this are shorted..
and of course you buy it to an electronics store...


johnfil.....