20 Most Recent Gem Sound GemSound PA-585 2-Channel Amplifier Questions & Answers

You could check the 115/230 switch. If you are getting power to the unit no fuse or circuit breakers tripped, and you have 8 ohm speakers connected, and a signal in you should get a signal out. Level controls should be up. If all of those things are true, then the amp is broke and needs an electronic technician to repair it.

If you are saying that it only works on say the left channel in stereo mode, but both channels come on in mono, then there's a fault in the amplifier's pre-amp. These days they are an IC, it can be traced by following the input wires to the point on the PC Board and then looking around for an IC with all inputs going in. If you are lucky there might be two! One for each channel. Replace the one on the dead channel. You can test it, either the single IC or both, touching it's pins with an insulated tool while the amp is on. It will buzz on the channel. Stereo amps have two sets of identical parts, except when an IC is involved. But even then that will have two halves (inside it). You just need to touch the pins of the IC, with the tool, but don't short the pins together! You should hear at least 4 buzzers. One at the right input, one at the left input, one each at the left and right output. If you only get the left an right output buzz, plus the good channel input buzz, you know it's the IC that's gone.

When you say "broken" do you mean the entire slider or just the knob? Because if it's just the knob, you can just take it to an electrical parts shop such as Maplin (UK) or Radio Shack (USA) and find something similar or that matches it. Ask the assistant if for help if you can't find it. If it will fit, but doesn't match, buy two so that you can match them up. They shouldn't be expensive. If the controller is broken you might have to find a dealer who repairs that brand. As it's not a widely known brand you might have to pay a bit more, being less competition around.

I Think that something like a transistor is getting hot and then shutting down. Exploring inside might solve the problem of what's getting really hot. You could even get some Servisol Freeze Spray, and wait for it to go off then spray it on the suspected part. That will cool it down and it should start up again. If it does come on, that part will have to be replaced.

I am getting no power and fuses are all good

I would check the devices on the heat sink for that channel. They are the top culprits for the fault.

A diode/rectifer or voltage stabliser, or leaky capacitor in the power supply.
Also the main transistors in the power amp or if it has an output IC - that!
If you can in anyway disconnect the power supply section from the amp circuit, you can isolate which part is faulty. For if it blows when disconnected from the power amp, you know it's just the power supply that's gone. And if it does not blow - then it's the amp!

is this like charades
what the beep are we talking about here is it a toaster a car or may be a phone
the question makes no sence with out knowing the item that has the problem

Hi...
If it's a straight-up power switch then it will need to be replaced if it works off a relay then the relay is gone.

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HI...
Connect the "line-out" of the sound card to the "Line-in" of the GEM amp

Dc problem in amplifier (short circuit) needs to be serviced

First of all the EXA-3940 is rated at 350watts per channel in to 8 ohms. The 1400 watts is bridged into a 4 ohm load. Second, the speakers can handle 1000Wats peak with an average of 600 continuous (i'm guessing). That tells me that the amp is underpowered for the speakers. The sensitivity of the amp is such that the mixer is overdriving the input stage. That is what is causing the clipping. If you are looking for more volume, you are probably better off purchasing another amp and running them in bridge mode, 1 per speaker cab. Be careful though, not to overdrive the speaker cabinets either.

Dan

Hi again, how did you go?

regards
robotek

please confirm from your speakers cables in good condition and from your speakers.make maintenance to your amp by air blower-clean air filter-keep good ventilation around.after cleaning and good ventilation make test with any media while you are connecting one speaker only and then connect the other one.

SEnd all the high notes to the small speakers and the bass to the sub. Ran.

Hi There,

You have given me a good clue to your problem....

You say that the CD player goes well and does not shut the system down like the Live connections. This is a single input configuration...

This means that there is sound levels coming in from the live multiple connections that are too strong (Loud) for the amp to handle...
Its a good amp you have as its shutting down to protect itself instead of blowing up....
So.... set up for the live show then disconnect all but one of the live inputs and start the live session if its OK, then connect another of the live connections, and see if its OK, if it is then connect another live one connecting each one progressively until the problem occurs again...this last live connection is the one that is too loud in signal strength for the amp to handle causing the shut down...

Solution is to reduce tha signal on that last cable source to a level that stops the shut down...I remember that groups of guitar players have volume controls on each guitar and if these are set too high then this can occur....specially if they are all using the same amp without a controlled "mixer man" monitoring each input signal.
Rember the small meters on the mixing panel which have a green painted area and a red painted area the "mixer man" must keep the each meter needle in the green zone for all the inputs otherwise a shut down occurs.
Hope this helps you...

Cheers From
YUBEUT