How do I replace electric brushes in the motor

It sounds like the small silver piece that fell out of your BISSELL Powerforce Helix may be the motor brush. The motor brush is a small, spring-loaded carbon block that makes contact with the motor to conduct electricity. If the motor brush falls out or is not installed correctly, it can cause the motor to make a loud, high-pitched noise.
To fix the problem, you should locate the motor brush and try to reinstall it. The motor brush is typically located near the motor on one or both sides of the vacuum. You may need to consult the user manual or contact BISSELL customer service for specific instructions on how to access and install the motor brush.
If the motor brush is damaged or missing, you may need to purchase a replacement motor brush from BISSELL or a vacuum repair shop. Once you have replaced the motor brush, the high-pitched noise should go away and the vacuum should operate normally.

A wire might have come loose inside the Vacuum head.

Note: Electricity can cause serious injury even Death.
Isolate your power supply from the mains switchboard.
Switch off and Unplug your appliance from the wall socket before attempting any repairs.

Remove/Dismantle the Vacuum head and locate the wires.
Check the wires at the terminals and at pinch points

Check your power cord and power supply, check the plug is clean and free from corrosion or dirt.
Plug another appliance into the same socket to check there is power at the socket.

If its still under warranty, take it back to the store or manufacturer for replacement.
Call a serviceman to test the appliance for you,

If not you could...
Check your fuse in the device, you will have to dismantle the appliance. Some of them have a fuse to protect the motor.

Get your Multimeter and do some tests...
Test the flexible cord connections
Electrical tests included, visual inspection, Earth continuity, Polarity and Insulation resistance.

Examining cord for Damage
Disconnect flexible cord from power supply.
Check cord along the whole length for obvious damage

1: Visual Inspection
A visual test is necessary before using test instruments to ensure that all specific safety requirements are meet.
Check the general condition and safety of the cord, plug, cord anchorage, terminations and of the appliance itself.

2: Earth Continuity.
The earthing system of an electrical installation must be installed in a manner that will allow circuit protection devices to operate if there is a fault between live parts (other than Neutral) and the mass of earth.
What to check: For class (one) 1 protectively earthed appliances only, test for very low resistance between exposed appliance metalwork and the earth pin of the plug. this resistance should be as low as possible and must not exceed 1 ohm. Note: the Exposed metal parts of a class 2 double-insulated appliance must not be earthed.
Equipment requirements:
A Multimeter (Digital or analogue) Set on a ohm scale or an insulation tester that also has a continuity scale.
A set of leads.

3: Polarity
Why is this test necessary:
An incorrect connection of phase and neutral conductors to fittings and appliances is extremely dangerous and has been the cause, either directly or indirectly of many shocks and fatalities.
What to check:
Polarity tests are carried out to ensure that every single-pole switch operates in the active conductor or the circuit in which it is connected.
Equipment requirements:
A Multimeter (Digital or analogue) Set on the resistance scale when the SUPPLY is NOT connected.
or a voltage indicator set on a suitable voltage rating when the supply is not connected.

4: Insulation Resistance
Why this test is necessary:
All live conductors (including Neutrals) and live parts must be insulated to prevent - Electric shock hazards from inadvertent contact.
- Fire hazards and equipment damage from short circuits.
What to check:
Insulation resistance tests must be made between:
- Active conductors of a poly-phase circuit
- Active and Neutral
- Active and Earth
- Neutral and Earth
The insulation resistance between appropriate components shall be not less than 1 mega-ohm minimum
Equipment requirements:
An insulation resistance tester which maintains an output of 500 volts when loaded with a 1 mega-ohm resistance.
A set of leads.

Different countries adhere to spicific Electrical (safety) Regulations and standards

This information is only intended to enlighten the novice, guide and remind someone already in the field of electrical installations.
DO NOT attempt any electrical repairs unless you have the appropriate background or training.

Check your power cord and power supply, check the plug is clean and free from corrosion or dirt.
Plug another appliance into the same socket to check there is power at the socket.

Note: Electricity can cause serious injury even Death.
Isolate your power supply from the mains switchboard.
Switch off and Unplug your appliance from the wall socket before attempting any repairs.

If its still under warranty, take it back to the store or manufacturer for replacement.
Call a serviceman to test the appliance for you,

If not you could...
Check your fuse in the device, you will have to dismantle the appliance. Some of them have a fuse to protect the motor.

Get your Multimeter and do some tests...
Test the flexible cord connections
Electrical tests included, visual inspection, Earth continuity, Polarity and Insulation resistance.

Examining cord for Damage
Disconnect flexible cord from power supply.
Check cord along the whole length for obvious damage

1: Visual Inspection
A visual test is necessary before using test instruments to ensure that all specific safety requirements are meet.
Check the general condition and safety of the cord, plug, cord anchorage, terminations and of the appliance itself.

2: Earth Continuity.
The earthing system of an electrical installation must be installed in a manner that will allow circuit protection devices to operate if there is a fault between live parts (other than Neutral) and the mass of earth.
What to check: For class (one) 1 protectively earthed appliances only, test for very low resistance between exposed appliance metalwork and the earth pin of the plug. this resistance should be as low as possible and must not exceed 1 ohm. Note: the Exposed metal parts of a class 2 double-insulated appliance must not be earthed.
Equipment requirements:
A Multimeter (Digital or analogue) Set on a ohm scale or an insulation tester that also has a continuity scale.
A set of leads.

3: Polarity
Why is this test necessary:
An incorrect connection of phase and neutral conductors to fittings and appliances is extremely dangerous and has been the cause, either directly or indirectly of many shocks and fatalities.
What to check:
Polarity tests are carried out to ensure that every single-pole switch operates in the active conductor or the circuit in which it is connected.
Equipment requirements:
A Multimeter (Digital or analogue) Set on the resistance scale when the SUPPLY is NOT connected.
or a voltage indicator set on a suitable voltage rating when the supply is not connected.

4: Insulation Resistance
Why this test is necessary:
All live conductors (including Neutrals) and live parts must be insulated to prevent - Electric shock hazards from inadvertent contact.
- Fire hazards and equipment damage from short circuits.
What to check:
Insulation resistance tests must be made between:
- Active conductors of a poly-phase circuit
- Active and Neutral
- Active and Earth
- Neutral and Earth
The insulation resistance between appropriate components shall be not less than 1 mega-ohm minimum
Equipment requirements:
An insulation resistance tester which maintains an output of 500 volts when loaded with a 1 mega-ohm resistance.
A set of leads.

Different countries adhere to spicific Electrical (safety) Regulations and standards

This information is only intended to enlighten the novice, guide and remind someone already in the field of electrical installations.
DO NOT attempt any electrical repairs unless you have the appropriate background or training.

With most vacuums it's not necessary to completely dissassemble to the motor. Most rattles are either something stuck/jammed in, around the wheels and intake area. The rattle, if it's a knocking can also be the internal broken rod of the roller. Rollers can be purchased at hardware stores. Even Walmart and Target carry many models. There are screws in the back and front and guide tabs that the housing cover slips into in the front to remove the top cover as a last resort.

Try cleaning maintence 1st.

1) Unplug
2) Flip over and remove screws on the belt and roller face. Remove face-expose belt &brushes.
3) Slide brush out of grooves. If the belt makes you nervous, slide a large screw driver through it's loop to hold in place while you clean the roller.
4) See if the belt is in good condition free of cracks or tears. If it needs replacing, it slips over the motor spindle for simple change outs. The belt and roller part number should be listed on the vacuum if you look atround. Usually on a metallic plate installed during manufacturing.

You can take a 4' length of old garden hose and listen through it to the outside of the motor while running to see for sure if the noise IS coming from the motor, or infact it's the roller. I hope this helps you.

First you need to remove the metal cover to expose the brush roll assembly. Push up the plastic cover connected to the foot pedal to expose the motor shaft. Remove the brush roll assembly and simply hook the belt on the motor shaft first then pull back the brush roll and push the brush roll back to the slot. There's a small piece of plastic on the left hand side of the brush roll. This piece would go in after the brush is set in the slot. Finally, replace the metal cover.

I assume the brush head has a motor, if this is correct you need to get a AC volt meter and see if voltage is present at the motor, if it is the motor is defective and must be replaced, if it is no present then the cord to the motor that runs down the hose is defective or the connection to the motor is defective, use an ohm meter and do continuity tests to determine the place the open circuit is, if you are not familiar with electrical testing a vacuum repair shop can tell you what u need very quickly with a few simple tests, my local shop does this many times free of charge as long as u buy the parts from the shop..

More likely it is the beater brush which is jammed and not turning. Turn the machine over and remove the bottom plate. Unhook the drive belt, then try to turn the beater brush--it is likely bound up with string, thread, and hair. Try turning the machine on once--if the motor spins and makes vacuum, it is probably ok. Remove the brush assembly and clean it of debris. Clean the end bearings with a Q tip and WD40 oil, then wipe clean with another Q tip. Oil the bearings with 3-1 or other light oil. Check the belt for a badly burned area--replace if necessary. Slide the new belt over the brush and motor shaft, then drop the brush with bearings into the case, and check rotation. If ok, replace the plate and test on your floor. Hope this helps!

A clog usually only affects the vacuum action. If the brush is not turning, make sure the motor driving it still runs. Remove the bottom plate and take out the brush assembly--check the end bearings for being bound-up with debris and the brush surface clear of debris. Clean the bearings with a Q-tip, then lightly oil them inside with 3-1 oil or similar light oil. Make sure the brush turns freely when returned to it's place. If ok, install the drive belt paying attention to any necessary twists. Replace the bottom plate and test. If the driving motor doesn't work, try turning the shaft by hand. If bound-up and it isn't caused by wound debris, the motor probably needs to be replaced. Hope this helps!

Hi! Highly unlikely that you need a new motor.  Highly likely that you need new carbon brushes.  The smell is caused by excessive sparking between the worn brushes and the copper commutator segments.  Most carbon brushes (and from memory I suspect this includes Henry's) have a copper wire buried in their last few millimeters, and you really need to change them before that becomes exposed.   The longer you run it like this, the more likely you are to damage the commutator, so change them sooner rather than later.  When you change the brushes, you can smooth off the commutator with very fine abrasive paper (the objective is to smooth it, not scratch it!), and then blow all the dust away (or **** it away if you have another vac, of course).  Incidentally, you don't say if you are using a paper bag in your Henry. Some people, because the top-hat filter is so good, try to manage without a bag.  This is false economy!  You should always use a bag. I hope this helps! I value feedback, so please remember to rate this response.