Won't complete wash cycle, stuck at wash after time end!

This machine can get items stuck in the drum, the bearings can go bad etc. https://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/How-To-Fix-A-Washing-Machine/38-5-620929-/Whirlpool-Washer-won-t-spin-GSQ9669LW0.

Could be several reasons:
- Selected the "Night cycle" program (means standing with the drum full of water, reason: too much noise in the spin cycle)
- Set to the "Rinse hold" (means standing with the drum full of water, reason: wrinkles on the clothes)

According to your description I think that this is not a failure otherwise error E20 will be appears on display.

Once the washing programme has come to an end, END illuminates on the programme progress display.
If RINSE HOLD was selected, the display beside the START/ PAUSE button flashes.
1. After a rinse hold, the water must first be pumped out:
- Either press the START/PAUSE button (the water is pumped out and the washing is spun according to the completed programme;
After the START/PAUSE button is pressed again, the spin speed can still also be changed during spinning), or
- Turn the programme selector to PUMP OUT and press the START/PAUSE button (the water is pumped out without spinning),or
- Turn the programme selector to SPIN or SHORT SPIN and press theSTART/PAUSE button (the water is pumped out and the washing is spun or gently spun).
At the end of this programme step, the END indicator will illuminate.
2. Open the door.
As soon as the DOOR indicator lights up green, the door can be opened.

Dado

You probably have a rock or some object stuck in the pump blades. Take out the pump and turn the blades get out the obstruction

hi
unfortunately the programmer is faulty

Isyour washing machine displaying an error code? If so, try using the owner's manual to decipher the code and you may beable to easily diagnose the problem. The problem could be as simple as the doorbeing slightly ajar, the machine is in pause mode, or the spin selector isstuck. Checkthe handy chart in the article Washingmachine won't advance to washer spin cycle for more possible reasons why your washingmachine won't advance to washer spin cycle-and some tricks for getting itworking again.

see the next steps and use the common sense: God bless you
When the cycle doesn't advance, it's probably the timer or a cold-water supply problem: It's the timer, if your washing machine fills with water and begins agitating, but the timer never advances--or if the washer is in a spin cycle and the timer won't advance. Then you need to replace the timer. It may be a cold-water supply problem, if the washing machine fills with water, agitates, drains, and spins, but then doesn't fill with rinse water. See There's no cold water.

Do the diagnostic test:
SHU 53 MODELS

To start test program, press and hold both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO program buttons, then turn unit on by pressing ON/OFF button. Initially, control module version # will be displayed (e.g./ ?21? = version 1 with jumper). When wash program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button.
To check each program indicator light, press its button. To check Cycle Countdown display, Refill Rinse Agent light and REGULAR WASH light, press REGULAR WASH button (press Delay Start button to test Cycle Countdown display alone). Cycle Countdown display will show “88′ when REGULAR WASH button is pressed and “8h” when Delay Start button is pressed.
To start testing, press both the SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO buttons a second time. When testing has ended, Cycle Countdown display will show a fault using codes below. If more than one fault occurs, code numbers will be added together, (e.g./ ?6? = faults 2 + 4).
0 = No faults detected 2 = Heating fault 8 = NTC (temperature sensor) fault
1 = Aqua Sensor (“Sensotronic”) fault 4 = Filling fault F = Filling fault (display occurs during wash, not test)
To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil, measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.
If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), display will show fault code “4′ and unit will continually fill and drain where testing won’t be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), display will show “0′, water won’t heat (to 150?F) and water won?t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), display will show fault code “8′ immediately and testing will end shortly after water has started circulating.
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The dishwasher not draining is most probably faulty drain pump or drain hose is got bit loose.It has to be checked and confirmed
.You can get required parts from www.repairclinic.com
Thanks. Keep updated for any more query. You can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

SHU 53 MODELS To start test program, press and hold both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO program buttons, then turn unit on by pressing ON/OFF button. Initially, control module version # will be displayed (e.g./ ?21? = version 1 with jumper). When wash program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button. To check each program indicator light, press its button. To check Cycle Countdown display, Refill Rinse Agent light and REGULAR WASH light, press REGULAR WASH button (press Delay Start button to test Cycle Countdown display alone). Cycle Countdown display will show ?88″ when REGULAR WASH button is pressed and ?8h? when Delay Start button is pressed. To start testing, press both the SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO buttons a second time. When testing has ended, Cycle Countdown display will show a fault using codes below. If more than one fault occurs, code numbers will be added together, (e.g./ ?6? = faults 2 + 4). 0 = No faults detected 2 = Heating fault 8 = NTC (temperature sensor) fault 1 = Aqua Sensor (?Sensotronic?) fault 4 = Filling fault F = Filling fault (display occurs during wash, not test) To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil, measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty. If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), display will show fault code ?4″ and unit will continually fill and drain where testing won?t be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), display will show ?0″, water won?t heat (to 150?F) and water won?t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), display will show fault code ?8″ immediately and testing will end shortly after water has started circulating.

Most likely a defective door switch.