No picture or sound, power light blinking blue and red.
SOURCE: red blinking light when tv is turned off
if this is a 37lg30 i have brand new spare parts. the tv was never used it was dropped and the screen was damaged so i just took out the parts out. i was originally looking for some one that had a problem with there tv but a good screen like you but its easier to ship out the boards.
SOURCE: How to fix continous red blinking lights
Ur power board supply is dead.Replaced the power supply well solved this problems.Tries Shopjimmy.com,Ebay.com to buy a refurbish power supply board.
SOURCE: red/green light keeps blinking.
This issue is related to a bad/failed power supply inside your TV.
Call LG to see if your TV is still in warranty. 800-243-0000
If not in warranty, the power supply is about $225.
Good luck. I do hope that I have helped you.
SOURCE: TV LG37LC2D... When powering the
Failed power supply due to shorted circuits in the power supply or in the backlight inverter board, bad DC filter caps.
If you are going to DIY and have proper tools, electronics knowledge, and know safety precaution then please read on:
Please see my basic troubleshooting guide here:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r5093881-lcd_flat_panel_tv_troubleshooting_guide
http://s807.photobucket.com/home/budm/allalbums
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague
Parts: www.shopjimmy.com
Capacitors kit: http://lcdalternatives.auctivacommerce.com/Default.aspx
SOURCE: tv does turn on but
I had the exact same problem, same TV... LG 42LB1DR. TV just shut down one day after 27 months. Power stayed on and the LCD had power but no audio or video. I went online and found this forum. I purchased four 2200uF @ 25v, and one 1800 uF @ 35v Panasonic capacitor's for a few dollars at DigiKey. I upgraded to 25v & 35v from 10v & 25v respectively because it seems that the originals were under-rated. The tv came with 10v Samxon caps that seem to be problematic in all the units they were used in. Do not buy Samxon if you do this yourself.... I opened the set by taking off the plastic back panel and then by removing the second metal panel. There are a lot of screws, and you also have to remove the nuts on the F connector bodies and the retaining screws on the D-sub connectors as well as some small screws around the HDMI input and analog / composite connectors. There are three boards and a hard drive. The board on the far left just above where the plug goes in is the power supply board. There are five data cables and one red power cable attached to it that can be removed simply by carefully unplugging them. The board is fastened to the unit with five small screws, one on each corner and one in the middle of the right side. If you look for three green capacitors grouped together around the middle of the board and slightly off to the right, you will probably see one or more that is bulging out at the top. This is most likely "C235", the main problem. The other three caps that need replacing are C202, C201 and C219. C219 is closer to the top part of the board. There is also the 1800 uF cap which I've seen go bad once, but didn't note the number.
You'll want to make sure that you put the negative terminal of the capacitor through the right hole, otherwise you will pop the cap. The negative terminal is clearly marked on all the capacitors. With needle nose pliers, grip the cap and pull down while heating up the terminals. The cap will eventually come out. A de-soldering bulb, solda-pult, or solder-wick make this easier. Put the new cap in (you may need to heat the solder that is left on the board to clear the hole so it can push through). When both terminals are through, bend them slightly so it stays in place. Take the solder and stretch out a few inches off the roll and while holding it in one hand, lightly touch the base of the terminal where it comes through the board, with the soldering iron and the solder at the same time. --- Try not to use too much solder.. you only need a tiny drop. This will solder the cap in place. Cut off the terminals close to the board with some snips and repeat this on the other three. Put the board back in, plug in the cables. Test the TV before putting the back panels on. It should work fine if all went well..... If you hear a pop than you reversed the terminals on a capacitor and that one will need to be redone correctly.... This might sound lengthy and potentially difficult but its worth a try. Otherwise you can pay someone to replace the entire board for BIG BUCKS with the same junk caps on it and have the same problem in a year or so. LG doesn't want to take responsibility for this and I'm sure that it has cost a lot of people a lot of money for about $8 in parts........... This worked for me and it can work for anybody with the same problem.. Good Luck!
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