When I make 4-5 stitches in place, the threads knots on the back. I've done this on another machine, so I don't understand why I'm having problems on my Janome.
Rather than sewing 5 stitches in place, you can try taking 3-4 stitches in reverse and then stitch forward. Or, instead of stitching "in place," simply shorten the stitch length and take your locking stitches before lengthening the stitches for normal sewing. In my experience, stitching too many times in place always create a knot because there is nowhere for the excess thread to go. Most newer machines with a built in locking stitch take only 2-3 stitches in place.
Several things to try:
Pull thread tails (both bobbin thread and upper thread) straight back and when you lower the presser foot, make sure they are held down straight back. This may or may not be enough to solve the problem, but it is simple to try, and often works. You might want to hold the thread tails while you start sewing.
Use a starter--folded piece of fabric scrap about an inch long--and begin sewing oink middle of starter. Push the fabric you want to see right up to the starter and keep sewing from the starter right onto your project without lifting the presser foot or cutting the thread. When you finish sewing, cut the little piece of thread between the starter and your project.
Before lowering presser foot, use wheel to lower your needle once and then pull up bobbin thread to top surface of your project. Then hold both bobbin and upper thread tails, lower your presser foot, and begin sewing. Release the thread tails after a few stitches.
Hope this helps. Those nasty "thread nests" are a real pain.
SOURCE: machine won't stitch a complete stitch
The "knotting up" can reveal a lot. If you have loose threads on one side or the other, the tension on the opposite side will be the culprit.
So if the threads are on the underside as you sew, it is the top tension. Top tension ought to be between 4 & 6 (this variation to allow for the different weights of fabric in your projects).
If tensions appear correct, and the thread is definately in the channel between the discs, try raising presser foot, remove thread and with a strip piece of fabric 8 - 10" (20 - 25cm) gently insert the fabric strip and clean between the discs with a see saw / to and fro action.
It may be there is lint trapped between the discs, this will keep them slightly apart and reduce the actual tension, sometimes dramatically.
If the loose threads are on the top, it is bobbin tension that is loose, it too may have lint in the spring and be giving a "false" tension.
I would not recommend fiddling with bobbin tension without being shown, it may end up with missing small screws and spring pieces.
Hope this is of some help,
Bargainbox
SOURCE: Thread tension?
I own this little gem of a machine. It definitely sews a perfect stitch. I'm assuming you own the green 3/4 size machine as denoted by your product number. The half size blue one pictured is incorrect.
Anyway, this machine sews a perfect stitch, due to the oscillating bobbin.
Most sewing machines with rotary (drop in) bobbins don't have an easily
accessible bobbin tension screw, which means your fabric is usually
slightly puckered. Fiddling with only the upper tension helps very
little. This frustrates me to no end for sewing long curtains, clothing
side seams, etc. Wrong tension causes them to hang with puckers, making
them look awful. With the Hello Kitty 3/4 size Janome, there is a screw
on the bobbin case which allows you to adjust for every thread diameter
perfectly. Always a perfect stitch, if you take the time to adjust this
screw.
To adjust the bobbin for a perfect tension, load the bobbin into
the bobbin case and thread it through the guide. Holding only the
thread between two or three fingers, let the bobbin case dangle below.
This will be slightly difficult, because the bobbin will want to fall
out of the case. Don't worry, just don't move it around too much and it
will stay in long enough for this test. If the metal bobbin case slowly
drops lower, unwinding thread as it goes, the thread is too loose.
Tighten the screw on the side of the bobbin case a little (about a
quarter turn.)
If the bobbin case seems to be dangling firmly, give the thread a
gentle tug, lifting up fairly quickly. If it doesn't release a couple
of inches of thread, it's too tight, loosen the screw. You know the
tension is perfect when a quick, light tug of the thread releases a
couple of inches of thread.
SOURCE: my white speedylock serger 1634 thread keeps getting in knots
i have the book and it says thread from inside out, inside looper (upper) then lower, then thread the needles, first right then left. I have found that it does not matter if you thread the needles or loopers first but that you should try to thread from inside to out.
SOURCE: how to tie knot using handy stitch machine
When finished sewing the seam, raise the needle arm by turning the Hand Wheel. The use the back of the seam ripper to pull the thread about 3 inches, then cut it. Because its lockstitch you wont need to finish it further.
LOL
SOURCE: Bunches of threads on the bottom
You didn't give the brand, but if it's any of the older, non computerized machines, your problem is most likley in the tensions.
Loopies (tangles or nests of thread) on the bottom means upper tension too loose (or bobbin too tight).
Let's do the bobbin first...once it is set...99.9% of loopies on the underside are a problem with upper tension.
This is for bobbins that load on the front/side of the machine.. Take out the bobbin case...check the area (hook/race area) that the bobbin goes into for lint, tiny thread pieces, etc.). Now, most of this type of bobbin loads into the case with the thread going counter clockwise (when you are looking at the open side of the case), insert the bobbin in the case, and pull it through the hole/slott in the side of the bobbin case. To test for proper tension:
Lay the bobbin case in the palm of one hand, pull on the thread coming off the bobbin case. The bobbin will gently lift off your hand & if you wiggle the thread, the bobbin case should slowly drop about an inch at a time. If it's too tight, loosen the Larger (closest to where the thread comes out) screw on the side of the bobbin case about 1/16 of a turn...tiny bit...retest. Once that is done try a test stitchout. Remember to hold onto the bobbin & top thread for first few stitches.
If you still get loopies on the bottom...tighten the upper tension...it should be set between 4-5 for regular sewing.
Make sure the needle is in properly.
For a drop in bobbin...adjusting that tension is harder. You take the face plate (needle plate, the plate covering the sewing area of the machine) off and remove the bobbin case...First...look at the case in the machine...there is a little lip sticking out, usually at the bottom right corner of the open area (closest to you)...this is where you need to have the little lip when you replace the bobbin case.
Remove the case...check under it and inside the machine for lint/dust/threads & using a small paint brush (I use a childs tooth brush sometimes), clean the lint out. Now check the bobbin case for lint, especially where the thread fits..look at the inside of the case, you will see a little flat metal thing with a slott in it...make sure no lint in that slott. I use a pin to remove lint from there. Reinsert the bobbin case, rethread it all, (bobbin goes counterclockwise). Put the faceplate back on & test the stitches...still loopies with the upper set to between 4-5? Then you will remove the faceplate, remove the bobbin case & loosen the screw on the outside about 1/16 of a turn (these are usually covered in a colored coating) and retest.
I know that most home machine makers say not to adjust the bobbin..but that was back when you had one size thread...now we have many, many sizes and types of thread, so adjusting the bobbin may be needed sometimes.
Rule of thumb is:
loopies on underside...tighten upper tension
loopies on top...loosen upper tension.
But, like I said...with all the new threads..sometimes you have to adjust that bobbin.
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