Need 4 in. bolt for front turning wheels - Electric Mobility Merits Electric Wheelchair Scooter Battery Charger

Question edited for clarity.

Question moved from Cars & Trucks.

56 foot pounds.

Axel bolt torque specs? - 2005 Road Star

Yamaha Starbike Forum https://www.starbikeforums.com > ... > Road Star
Jun 2, 2010 - Looks like rear is 110 ft lbs. Front 56 ft lbs. Here is a link to the service manual on line.

front axle nut/ bolt torque specs???

Road Star Raider https://www.roadstarraider.com > ...
Sep 29, 2012 - Front wheel axle bolt torque is 52ft. lbs. The Front wheel axle pinch bolt is 17ft. lbs. Some where on here is the link to download the Raider ...
front axle torque
Mar 12, 2011
Need torque specs..
Mar 4, 2013
Torque setting for front wheel
Jun 14, 2012
Front wheel removal
Jul 3, 2015
More results from www.roadstarraider.com

Disassembly 1. Remove oil seal from front wheel hub. 2. Remove front wheel hub assembly with suitable tool.

3. Remove retaining ring. If the bearing inner race remains on wheel hub, grind a section of inner race until approximately 0.020 in (0.5 mm) remains. Remove race with a chisel.

4. Remove wheel bearing with suitable tool.

• Do not remove dust cover unless necessary. • Do not reuse dust cover if removed. 5. Mark relative positions of dust cover and knuckle for proper reassembly. 6. Remove dust cover with a chisel.

• Do not remove wheel hub bolt unless necessary. • Do not reuse wheel hub bolt if removed. 7. Remove wheel hub bolt with a press.

Assembly 1. Press in new wheel studs. Front wheel hub press in either bolt turning or loosening by the torque of 108.5 lb•ft (147 N•m, 15 kg•m) shall not be premissible.

2. Mark new dust cover to match the removed dust cover. 3. Align mark on new dust cover with knuckle. 4. Install new dust cover with suitable tool.

5. Install new wheel bearing with suitable tool. 6. Install front wheel hub assembly with suitable tool.

• Use a new oil seal, and apply grease to seal. • Install oil seal so that it is flush with knuckle. 7. Install new oil seal with SST(0K993 331 016).

SOUNDS LIKE THE CV JOINT IS BAD

2008 328i Passenger headlight assembly removal.

The headlight assembly is held in by 4 "star" bolts (size 25); 2 visible on the top of the assembly, 2 not visible or easily accessible.

The 2 bolts not so visible require that the front half of the wheel well come off and the front bumper or "nose" of the car.... The bumper is what needs to come off, but there are 2 bumper bolts hidden by the wheel well.

The wheel well is held in by 7mm bolts, 2 of which are actually bolted to the bumper on the bottom.

The front bumper is held on with 7mm bolts on the bottom edge, and star bolts, size 25, accessible on the top edge. (Hood open). Here were my steps.

1. Jack up the car on the side you are replacing, remove wheel.
2. Using 7mm socket, remove all the bolts to peel off the front half of the wheel well. With the wheel well out, you can see the 2 other star bolts holding the headlight assembly, but you can only remove one of them... even if you were good enough to get both removed, the headlight assemble will not push out through the bumper.... Keep going with bumper removal.
3. Remove 2, 7mm bolts of the front bumper that are now visible up near the outer edge of the headlight assembly.
4. At this point I removed the bumper's top edge start bolts and bottom edge 7mm bolts about 3/4 of the way across the bumper...
5. The bumper is very flexible and you can now pull it back , reach in, and get that last difficult star bolt on the headlight assembly....
6. Don't forget the one electrical connector....
7. I also recommend testing the new assembly by plugging it in before removing anything

Most hub assy's are just bolt off bolt on. You will need to suport car on stands, remove wheel, unbolt brake calliper but not the brake hose & move to side, remove disc, unplug abs sensor, unbolt hub from rear (3 or 4 bolts) Normaly 3 torx bolts on astras (funny looking heads) then reverse the procedure

Torque specs:

Front axle = 80 ft/lb
Front axle clamp bolt = 15 ft/lb
Front axle caliper mounting bolts = 25 ft/lb

Front Wheel Removal:

1. While the bike is still on the rear stand (but before putting it on the front stand), loosen the front axle clamp bolt with a 6mm hex bit. You do not need to remove it fully, just be sure it's loose.

2. Using the 14mm hex bit, loosen the front axle bolt. A breaker bar makes this step easier. Once it is loose you can go ahead and place the motorcycle on the front stand.

3. Using the 12mm socket, remove the front brake caliper mounting bolts. Once you have the brake off of the rotor, replace the bolts back in the caliper to prevent losing them. Hang the brake using cable ties or twine. BE SURE NOT TO PUSH THE BRAKE PEDAL! This will compress the brake pads and make it difficult to re-install. Repeat the process for the other side.

4. Once the brakes are tied off out of the way, finish removing the front axle bolt. It's helpful to use some wood to support the wheel while removing the axle bolt. Be sure to note the spacers on the wheel between the forks and the wheel. Remove them so they don't get lost. These will need to be greased before reinstalling.

5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure to replace the calipers and torque them to 25 ft/lb. Once the front axle bolt has been torqued to 80 ft/lb, be sure to drop the front to the ground and bounce the front forks 4-5 times. This will seat the forks on the axle. Then you can tighten the front axle clamp bolt to 15 ft/lb.

1) Break the torque on the center wheel nut and remove the nut and washer before jacking up the front end. 2) Jack up the front and remove the tire. 3) Remove the brake caliper and rotor. 4) After removing the rotor you will see the bearing assy. There are 3 torx bolts holding it on. You need to put the transmission in neutral to turn the hub and line up the hole to remove the bolts. 4) Knock it loose with a hammer and install in reverse order. The kit comes with a seal but I don't believe it's needed on a 96. Pretty simple job really... Good Luck.

Check the Brakes first. Are the pads worn down to metal. Is the Caliper Stuck (open)?
Raise and Support the Front and Rear (because of AWD) of the vehicle.
Remove the left front tire. Make sure the Parking Brake is engaged. Place the lug nuts back on the lug studs. Place the Vehicle in Neutral. Turn the wheel (without the tire on) and listen for where the noise is coming from. A bad bearing will feel rough (not smooth) and sound 'crackly' when trying to turn the one wheel. Make sure it is not from the CVJ.
If not smooth: Remove and Replace the wheel bearing. And yes you can do it yourself saving you about $150-$200 dollars. It is a bolt-on (4 bolts) bearing. Bolt Heads should be on the back side of the steering knuckle.
Remove the Brake Caliper, Caliper Brace, and Rotor.
Remove the 4-bolts (turn the wheels left and right to better access these bolt heads) and slip the bearing off the Axle. You may have to hit the bearing to loosen it.

is this front wheel? rear wheel? or 4 wheel drive? if you have front wheel drive or 4 wheel drive you will need to take the tire off and get the center cap off with cotter pin on most vehicles. then put the tire back on without its center cap. then put the vehicle back on the ground. then use required socket with an extention and breaker bar to put through the rim to loosen center hub bolt about a quarter turn. just enough to break it loose. then take the tire back off to finish the job. remove the brake caliper and rotor then center nut on hub bearing. there should be 3 bolts from the inside holding hub bearing on. on rear wheel only you won't need to take the tire off and on.

1) Jack up the front of the truck ( or the affected side).
2) Remove the wheel.
3) Remove the brake caliper, pads, and rotor.
4) Remove the axle nut. I use a 36mm socket.
5) Remove the three hub bolts (from the back of the spindle) ea.:
5a) You will need a 1/2 12 point inch ratcheting box wrench and larger
box wrench as I use or a 1/2 inch 12 pt. socket and ratchet with
long handle for rich folks who can afford such luxuries.
5b) Force the bolt to loosen 1/4 turn, then retighten. Spray the threads
with penetrating oil, then loosen as far as it will go (not much) easily.
Now curse about Mopar and rust. Ask a sailor for help if needed. Wire wheel or
5c) Go to 5b) until the bolt is out.
6) Use a sharp chisel and hammer to draw the hub bearing out of the spindle. Try not to use the chisel near the bolt holes.
7) Use a sanding disc remove any burrs from the hub mating surface of
the spindle.
8) Use wheel bearing greasre or moly grease to coat the splines of the
axle, the big hole in the spindle, and the threads of the bolts.
9) Put it all together.
10) If you got lazy and didn't do step #7, get a wheel alignment, then
drive for about 5k miles, repeat steps 1-9, then get a wheel
alignment again.