My roper dryer will dry for a few minutes then throw the braker

SOURCE: Dryer does not get hot enough to dry clothes Roper REX4634KQ1 Electric Dryer

http://www.repairclinic.com/0088_8_1.asp
Heating element Your dryer's heating element may be partially burned out. If it is, your dryer still heats, but at such a low temperature that it takes three or four times as long to dry the clothes. If the element is partially burned out, replace it.

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SOURCE: roper clothes dryer not drying clothes

Please take a look at the following link. In particular, the first major paragraph where it discusses proper ventilation:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

I know the link is for a dryer that no longer heats, but if a dryer is left in a condition where it is starved for air, the heating circuits will actually over-heat and eventually fail. You need to ask yourself when was the last time you inspected or cleaned the dryer exhaust ventilation. If you can't remember, or if you've never cleaned anything before, it may be a good time to do so. Most dryer heat related problems are caused by poor ventilation and lack of cleaning. I recommend that you clean the dryer ducting twice a year. That's once in the spring, and once again in the fall. It is also important to note that the SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the exhaust vent line is, the BETTER. The more bends and kinks that you put in the dryer exhaust, the more resistance you create for the dyrer blower, and the more potential choke points you create where lint can accumulate and clog. Not to mention, this can also cause a fire hazard and/or a habitat for rodents.

Follow the recommended advice and try drying a load of clothes with the vent hose removed, first. If your clothes dry faster like they should, you may have an exhaust clog somewhere. If your clothes still aren't drying correctly, inspect the interior blower fan housing for obstructions. This is all explained in the link provided.

If you attempt these preliminary measures and still have problems, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

SOURCE: I have a Roper Dryer Mod# REX5634KQ1. It just

There is a "one shot " thermostat that is probably blown. Part number 279816 which is a two piece kit. The part is located at the top of the heater housing.

SOURCE: Dryer does not get hot enough to dry clothes Roper REX4634KQ1 Electric Dryer

The vent may be stopped up, or the vent hose crimped so the air cannot escape, you can check the air flow at the vent on the outside of the house while the dryer is running.
try cleaning the vent and the lint screen with a vacuum cleaner, you may need to replace the vent hose, this should solve the problem

SOURCE: roper dryer spins but clothes don't dry

If your dryer IS attempting to heat, but you are experiencing longer dry times and/or poor drying efficiency, the following link can give you some things to check before you assume there is a malfunction with your dryer:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3578821-dryer_takes_too_long_to_dry

The number one cause of dryer heat related problems is poor exhaust ventilation. If not vented properly, a dryer will not dry efficiently, will take longer than required to dry, and will cause the heating circuits to overheat to the point of failure. The dryer will actually seem hotter as the heating circuits begin to overheat. This is also the source of many fire hazards if not resolved. Read through the link provided and review some of the potential causes.

If your dryer runs, but does NOT heat, the following link explains how to troubleshoot an ELECTRIC dryer with a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576548-dryer_runs_but_does_not_heat

First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.

The Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.

Replacement parts (if required) can be found at the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare.

NOTE: In many cases the problem is NOT the heating element. The heating element has protection devices that are designed to regulate the heat temperatures. If the dryer overheats the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) typically will blow BEFORE the heating element. The replacement kit is much cheaper than purchasing a new heating element that may or may not be the problem. Read through the information I provided and take resistance checks to be sure.

If you have any questions, please post back and let me know. I hope you find this information is helpful.