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Not any hot water. Looking for parts for the pcb assembly. PNzz.860-3.30 or zz. 860-3.29. Please does anyone carry these parts
Techanician said I needed parts for the pcb assembly. PN zz. 860-3.30 or zz. 860-3.29. Please help me find these parts I love my water cooler and I can't live without it
someone out there please help me. Thank you, denise
Thank you. Do you know I just got your comment. I had someone fix the water cooler but now the hot water keeps going on and off by itself or the red light always stays on so I always have hot water. I don't know what's going on.Thank you. Do you know I just got your comment. I had someone fix the water cooler but now the hot water keeps going on and off by itself or the red light always stays on so I always have hot water. I don't know what's going on.
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Re: Not any hot water. Looking for parts for the pcb...
This trouble maybe power supply or inverter boards is defective.
first you can test the voltage of the multr,and then check which part is defective.From Wisiny.com can find those parts
if you have any question,please let us know email:[email protected],we sincerely hope we can help you!
you can also check this boards whether suit you: AI 0100B Lien Chang 860 ALZ GJ712D EH Power Supply Backlight Inverter
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p.s. Before working on machine "turn of the
power".
Only carry out if you are confident that you can carry out safely.
Note check small black hose to the air pressure switch is connected,
When machine is turned upside down, the
hose has a tendency to come off.
If unsure call a service engineer.
My machine just had the flashing "door" fault.
On carrying out fault finding checks,
I Found that the main PCB had a built up dust.
This dust was in black lines going between components of the board.
Cleaned around components of the board with a small soft brush.
assembled & tested okay 2 months ago & still working.
Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
Sorry but, if you have carried out all of the (my 'standard' response to poor filling) actions below, it does look as if the water inlet valve or the controlling PCB is malfunctioning ;-0(
If you have checked that the hot and cold water taps are turned on fully and the hoses are not kinked or squashed at the back, it is worth while checking both the hot and cold water inlet filters. Turn the taps off and remove both hoses at the washer end. Inside each inlet port there is normally a little filter which should just slide out. Clean if necessary and replace each one and the hoses. If after turning the taps back on there is no improvement, the problem is symptomatic of a malfunctioning hot or cold water control valve. Sorry but it needs a service call and a check that it isn't the control PCB ;-0(
If this has assisted you please consider a 4 thumbs up for the rating.
Thanks and good luck,
John C
it could be a water valve fault. try to find out witch one is not letting water in. you can after doing so switch the wiring from the vavles hot to cold. run again. if you were not getting cold water and you switch the wires from cold to hot and now your getting hot when you have the cold on then you know that is a vavle problem. i hope you understand how i put that.
There is a parameter on the pcb to change would take 30seconds to do. Never replace ur pcb for these faults. Hold down reset untill u see t5 press reset 1 more time it will then say p01 press the heating temp button until u see p02 press the hot water temp button until it changes to numberv2 and that will fix ur problem
How old is your unit...if less than 5 years old tell Polam/Rheem customer support you are recieving a code 76 error - this is a loss of communication between the remote and the burner control assembly. Part will be covered under MF defect warranty. However, the part is covered....the labor to install is not.
If you are slightly technical you can install the part yourself...customer support will walk you through the process and they give you a step-by-step procedure to follow.
In my case, the problem was with the control card, located behind the control buttons on the front. The relay driving 120V, 10A to the heaters had one pin dissoldered, probably because of heating. It was dark around the pin. See the picture attached. The top part showd the PCB with the faulty pin marked by a red arrow; the bottom part shows the other side of the PCB with the relay itself.
Remember that this relay/pin drived 1400 W.
I found the electrical drawings here: http://www.greatplainsapplianceparts.com/order/Parts%20Manuals/Asko/ASKO-Dishwasher/D3121%20%28DW20.1%29%20SS.pdf
Common problem with these. Control panel (behind all the buttons on the door) has a thyristor in the middle of the PCB for switching the heater element ON/OFF.
After many screws and a bit of fiddling about, get access to back of PCB (print side) to find dry joints. Clean and re-make joints and all should be well.
Caution, this is a high voltage area. Disconnect from mains.
Please see photos.
Cheers…..Dave
c3 means that the temperature of the water inside the tank is higher than 60 degrees celcious.may be you have already connect the dishwasher with to much hot water or the rele inside the pcb is stuck.
waiting for answer
I need a pub board for same product can anyone help
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