Electric won't move only the relay clicks. Rock back and fourth start to move . Already put two control modules in last two weeks problem comes back . The modules are 1800.00 a piece but have found a place inthe states that will only whats wrong from 250 to 600 dollars Has anyone run into this problem . I almost think there maybe a dead spot on motor armture .
hi, its probably the thermal breaker under the shifter. simply remove the screw on the aft side of the shifter holding it in and slide it forward and out of the way. the thermal breaker is the metal fuse looking thing, pry it out and replace it with a 40 amp fuse if you can find it. if you cant, i usually bypass it all together. dont worry about a short, the battery has a 30 amp fuse on it under the blue cover/handle. good luck!
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Do you know how to test starter electrical circuit using voltage drop ? Test the battery cable to the starter . Plus ,knowing how the starter system works helps , it's not just a wire from the ignition switch to the S terminal on the starter solenoid . Turning the key to start a low voltage input to the BCM , indicates start is requested . The BCM sends a start request to the PCM / ECM - engine computer . The engine computer will energize the crank / start relay sending battery voltage to the S terminal on the starter solenoid spinning the engine over . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XhRPLgH6uZg&t=2s
Do you know what a wiring diagram is ? How to use a DVOM - digital volt ohmmeter to test electrical circuits . Free wiring diagrams here http://www.bbbind.com/free-tsb/ Enter vehicle info. Year , make , model an engine . Under system click on engine then under subsystem click on starting . Click the search button then the blue link.
Circuit Description
Moving the ignition switch to the START position signals the body control module (BCM) through discrete inputs from the ignition transducer that engine crank has been requested. The BCM verifies that theft is not active and sends a serial data message to the engine control module (ECM)/powertrain control module (PCM) requesting engine start. The ECM/PCM receives a 12-volt signal from the park/neutral position (PNP) switch or clutch pedal start switch notifying that it is safe to start the engine. There is a splice on this circuit in the fuse block-underhood that supplies power for the starter relay coil. The starter relay coil control circuit is then grounded by the ECM/PCM closing the switch in the starter relay suppling 12 volts to the S-terminal of the starter. Ground is supplied through the engine block.
the start relay in the control panel is bad,the relays coil is moving this is the click you hear,but the main contacts in the relay are bad there are 4 wires to it 2 for the start switch and 2 for the main contacts
anybody else seen this happen ????? their are no magical fixes for automotive electrical problems . You buy yourself a DVOM - digital volt ohm meter an test all the electrical coming into the ignition switch an going out . Do you know how to do automotive elcetrical an electronic testing ? Do you know what voltage drop is ? Electric Testing Techniques You Need to Know Do you know what a wiring diagram is ? You can find free ones here http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html Enter vehicle info. year , make , model and engine size ! Under system click on electrical distribution , under subsystem click on power distribuition ! Click the search button then the blue link. Find the ignition switch , check power in an out when trying to start the vehicle , voltage drop ! ignition switch could be bad . Do a voltage drop test on the starting circuit , bad positive or ground cable . Starter Voltage Drop
Relay Controlled Power Mode
The body control module (BCM) uses the discrete ignition switch inputs ignition 1, ignition 3 and crank to distinguish the correct power mode. Once the BCM has determined the power mode selected by the vehicle operator it will energize the Ignition relay, Run relay and retained accessory power (RAP) relay, depending on which power mode is selected.
Your getting into thing's you have no clue about , probably ! Do you know about computer controlled thing's
Ignition 1 Relay
The relay uses a Hot At All Times B+ power source derived from the underhood electrical center. The ignition 1 relay supplies a power signal to the following circuits when the Run or Crank power mode is selected:
• AC clutch relay
• ABS STG angle sensor
• Antilock brake system (ABS) yaw sensor
• Auxiliary power drop connector
• Crank relay
• Cruse control switch
• Electronic brake control module (EBCM)
• Engine control module (ECM)
• HVAC module
• Ignition control module (ICM)
• Instrument panel cluster (IPC)
• Sensing and diagnostic module (SDM)
• Transmission solenoid circuit
Power to many of this vehicle's circuits are controlled by the module that is designated the Power Mode Master (PMM). This vehicle's PMM is the Body Control Module (BCM). The PMM controls which power mode (Run, Accessory, Crank, Retained Accessory Power, or Off) is active.
Serial Data Power Mode
On vehicles that have several control modules connected by serial data circuits, one module is the power mode master (PMM). On this vehicle, the PMM is the body control module (BCM). The PMM receives 3 discrete ignition switch signals to differentiate which power mode will be sent over the Serial Data circuits. The table below illustrates the state of these inputs in correspondence to the ignition switch position:
You mentioned the relays, this is leading me to think it is a wiring, voltage, ground issue, or pump problem. These are usually pretty simple fixes if you can use a multi meter. Check voltage at the pump with ignition switch turned on, should have 12 volts at pump. Yes ? Pump won't go? Remove pump and I hook it up directly to 12v. Be careful of battery spark and gas!!! Pump still won't go? Need a pump... pump goes??? Check ground, then work back to fuel relays. If you had voltage at pump relays are ok unless you got a bad one or something weird. Is there a inertia switch or fuel cut off? How's your filter? Did you check for fuel pressure at fuel rail? I have rarely seen a brain box fail in this area. And usually it doesn't effect the relays first, it just causes failure not relays issues. If relays are failing and you have correct voltage(12volts), check grounds are clean and good connections. Checked the fuses already correct? We should have started here. Check these things and if no progress give me any more info that would help and we can figure something out
when key is turned there is a single click and then nothing happens.
Where do you hear this click coming from ? Before you replace parts you should test the electrical circuits , if you don't know how i suggest you take it to a qualified repair shop .
Viewing wiring diagrams to see what all is involved in the starting of the vehicle , reading how it's suppose to work in factory service repair manual .
Moving the ignition switch to the START position sends a 12-volt signal to the engine control module (ECM) to command starting. Battery voltage also travels through the switch side of the Run/Crank relay then through the clutch switch, if equipped with manual transmission, and on through the coil side of the Starter relay and then to the ECM. The ECM receives class 2 information from the vehicle theft deterrent (VTD) and transmission control module (TCM) to verify that all parameters are met for starting. When all parameters are met the ECM grounds the control circuit of the Starter relay closing the switch providing battery voltage to the starter solenoid through a 30 A Maxi-Fuse.
Are the battery cables good ? Voltage drop testing
Test the control side of the circuit at the relay . Free wiring diagrams here http://www.bbbind.com/free-tsb Enter vehicle info. year , make , model an engine size . Under system click on engine .Then under subsystem click on starting . Click the search button then the blue link . Pretty complex looking isn't it . Using a factory scan tool at the dealer makes diagnosing a lot simpler . Can view data to the PCM , start signal from the ignition switch , Starter relay control , see input from transmission park neutral safety switch .
The vehicle has one fuel pump and it is controlled by the rear electronic module .
Free wiring diagrams here http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html
Enter the vehicle info. Year , make , model an engine . Under system click on Engine , then under subsystem click on fuel controls . Then click the search button , then click the first blue link . The fourth diagram down . You will see fuel pump relay , rear control module , fuel pump module ! I would check the rear electronic module .
The noise is likely coming from the starter solenoid which is the heavy duty relay that sends battery power to the starter motor. If this is the case clean the wire connections going from the battery, to the solenoid and to the starter and try it again.
The wall thermostat will click even if there is no power. You will need an electric metere to trace down the problem. May be a bad breaker, bad limit switch or the element could have went bad. You need to follow the electric and see what is interupting the flow.
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