The dimming fuse supplies battery positive voltage to the license lamps, underhood lamp and to the dash integration module (DIM) park lamp input, for interior lamps dimming.
Dimming fuse 10 amp. under hood fuse box. the park lamp relay supply's battery power to that fuse .
This is kind of an usual code to get it says E.C.S vent valve solenoid malfunction but it says a VENT the only real vent is the gas cap I would check that first not that isn't venting out its not venting in to the system .
I can't say for sure I haven't seen it but it could be the problem .
when key is turned there is a single click and then nothing happens.
Where do you hear this click coming from ? Before you replace parts you should test the electrical circuits , if you don't know how i suggest you take it to a qualified repair shop .
Viewing wiring diagrams to see what all is involved in the starting of the vehicle , reading how it's suppose to work in factory service repair manual .
Moving the ignition switch to the START position sends a 12-volt signal to the engine control module (ECM) to command starting. Battery voltage also travels through the switch side of the Run/Crank relay then through the clutch switch, if equipped with manual transmission, and on through the coil side of the Starter relay and then to the ECM. The ECM receives class 2 information from the vehicle theft deterrent (VTD) and transmission control module (TCM) to verify that all parameters are met for starting. When all parameters are met the ECM grounds the control circuit of the Starter relay closing the switch providing battery voltage to the starter solenoid through a 30 A Maxi-Fuse.
Are the battery cables good ? Voltage drop testing
Test the control side of the circuit at the relay . Free wiring diagrams here http://www.bbbind.com/free-tsb Enter vehicle info. year , make , model an engine size . Under system click on engine .Then under subsystem click on starting . Click the search button then the blue link . Pretty complex looking isn't it . Using a factory scan tool at the dealer makes diagnosing a lot simpler . Can view data to the PCM , start signal from the ignition switch , Starter relay control , see input from transmission park neutral safety switch .
the clutch is the cheapest option and clutch fluid or cable is the first point to check indicates that the clutch is not properly disengaging with the foot on the pedal and that is loading up the gears making shifting difficult or impossible
If it's the original battery, it's 12 years old and way beyond it's useful life. If replaced once, the second battery is probably near the end of its life, five to six years
If you're near a Wal-Mart super store, get a new battery installed if the other is old, five to six years They have good prices and top rated batteries by CR. While you're there and if it's -25 (C or F since the scales are concurrent about that point) go to snack shop and warm up with a nice hot cocoa or hot cup of coffee. Sometimes its free in the customer lounge.
this sounds like a loose connection to these controls, have you had any work done on your vehicle recently? If you have this may have caused a connection to become loose , whilst the work was carried out, if not then i would check the connections to the various components and make sure they are pushed together properly, this will involve removing the lower dash panel , you have'nt mention vehicle so this is a general way to proceed, trace the wire looms back from the component and check each connection as you find them , hope this helps