I have a Kenmore Kenmore 110 72942100 gas dryer, I've already replaced the thermistor but it will start to heat, then the flame goes out after a very short time (30-40 seconds) then it will come back on for just a second or two, Ive looked at the solutions mentioned elsewhere, cleaned the exhaust, the motor, the lint filter, any other suggestions?
If the flame is liting most likely problem is bad air movement.go outside with thedryer running and check the hood to see how strong the air is blowing out,if there's a cage or anything blocking the hood remove it,if the vent line is a long run remove the vent line from the back of the dryer,stick a leaf blower into it and blow out the lint to the outside.also with the dryer unplugged,remove the bottom panel,remove the lint filter and metal duct the filter slides into,clean that out and blow out the blower wheel with a shop vac,you can blow out the gas tube where the flame ignites to make sure it's clean blow off the motor and the cabinet and vac up all lint that blows forwards.you can try running the dryer with the vent line removed to see if it runs any better.when the dryer first heats up the flame will come on until the temp. is reached and it will shut down,one more thing to check,when gas coils start to fail you'll have heat for like the first 15 to 30 minutes,then when the coils heat up the ignitor will glow but no flame,after the coils cool down they will work again.how are you running it on timed dry or more or less dry,if you run it on auto or more or less dry there's a sensor inside where the lint filter is,try cleaning it up or try running it on timed dry to see if it runs any different,when on auto the heat comes on,when it reaches temp. the heat stops and the timer will advance,when it calls for heat the timer stops and the heat comes back on,it will do this until the clothes are dry.your model has an even heat board in it that can also cause problems but if the flame is liting it sounds like you have a block somewhere.go here this will tell you a little more about your model dryer.
http://fixitnow.com/wp/2009/03/17/easy-fixes-for-two-common-problems-with-the-whirlpool-even-heat-dryers/
SOURCE: Whirlpool gas dryer heat goes on then off then on again
should have electronic igniter that light gas after turned on.
SOURCE: Maytag MDG5500 - heat goes off after several minutes
Q - My gas dryer will not heat, what could stop my dryer from heating?
A - Things that could stop a gas dryer from heating:
- glow bar igniter, thermal fuse ( not all models ), coils on the gas valve, gas valve, thermostats,motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, sensor.
A page for checking gas dryers is here.
SOURCE: I have a Neptune Gas Dryer MDG300AW and the flame goes out.
Well, first of all, the flame is not supposed to be continuous... it cycles on and off during the dry cycle because it staying on would incinerate your clothing. However, there are magnetic coils that do often go bad and cause the valve to stop opening after the beginning of the cycle... so you get a flame in the beginning, but if you were to sit there for 5 minutes with the dryer running, you would find that the flame stopped lighting completely.
They are pretty easy to replace... you will have to unscrew the little plastic pieces from the inside edge of the door, and unscrew the hinges and remove the door, then pull the front panel off (pull at the top).
Of course... UNPLUG before opening any appliance.
here's a picture of what you are looking for... they are completely outside the gas line, so changing them is very simple and doesn't require any handling of the gas. they are held on with a small metal plate.
http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?s=t-mdg5500-%3d%3dd563888i3479&PartID=3479
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I tried everything you suggested but when you first start the dryer it lights right up, then after less than a minute the gas shuts off, then it tries to start, the element glows but the gas doesnt come on so the element shuts off, then tries again ,and again. Any other suggestions?
if the ignitor is glowing but no flame you could have bad gas coils or a bad gas valve.try tapping on the gas valve when the ignitor is glowing to see if valve is stuck,also when you first start it listen for clicks,you'll hear a click ,then another click and ignitor will glow,then one more and flame ignites,if you don't hear any clicking after it first lites i would change out the gas coils on top of the gas valve,when the coils fail the won't work after they get hot,when they cool down they will work again,if you have a meter,unplug the dryer and pull off the wires to the coils check one at a time,check for continuity,set the meter say to 20k ohms,you'll see a 1 on the meter,touch the leads together and you should anything but 1,pull the wire off of the smaller coil,touch the heads to both metal arms and the 1 should not be there,this means the coil is good,now check the other coil,this has three metal arms touch the lead to the end and middle and then the end to end you should have continuity,plug it back in and start it,when the flame doesn't lite unplug the dryer and check the coils again,if no continuity the coils are bad.279834 is the part number for both coils.also when you remove the coil with three arms there's a metal spacer on the post that the coil slides onto,make sure it doesn't get stuck in the old coil,if so poke it out and slide it back onto post.you said before the gas was liting for a shot time and going out this is why i told you to clean it.if the ignitor is glowing gas isn't flowing into the tube,bad gas coils or gas valve,how long does it take for the gas to lite again?the coils are the cheapest way to go around 25 bucks the valve is around 100 dollars,sounds like you have bad gas coils.
one mor thing,with the larger coil,you can leave the lead in the middle and check the two outside arms,don't think it would be any difference but check it this way to.
Thank you Sal, I just ordered 2 gas coils from Amazon, less than $6.00 shipped for the pair. I will post the results after they're installed.
good deal,did one of the coils fail when you checked it with meter?
I don't have anything to check the coils with so I figured I would take a chance using your expertise and buy the coils
did you listen for the clicks when it lit and then was the clicking different when it wouldn't lite?i didn't mean to make it sound like it's deffinetly the coils,the only way is to check them with a meter,but if it runs like you say it sounds like the coils could be it,unplug the dryer,remove the two phillips screws,then lift up the metal cover that holds the coils down,do one at a time,make sure the harness is pushed tightly back onto the new coils and check for the metal spacer on the large coil,also if you look at the top of the coils you'll see a little piece of plastic that's sticking up that lines up with the hole on the coil cover,that's it.if you're gonna try to do your own repairs buy a multimeter or ohms meter,it's around 15 dollars,this way you know the part is bad instead of changing out parts that are good.let me know how you make out,thanks
Sal, I received my parts in the mail today, installed them, and problem solved, thanks again!
no problem,glad i could help,if you have any other problems with any appliance let me know and hopefully we can fix it.don't forget to clean the dryer once a year and the vent line,if you do this,your dryer will last longer,less parts will fail,your clothes will dry on time and mostly no fires.
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