Mackie 1400 overload lights on

There's a problem with the amplifier transistors or other heat generating circuit. That's what triggers the overload light.

Looks like you can use minimum 2 ohms, max 16 ohms

LFC Impedance Sensing

CS Series amplifiers feature innovative circuitry for safe operation into any load. When an amplifier senses a load that

overstresses the output stage, the Load Fault Correction circuit adjusts the channel gain to a safe level. Extreme load

fault under high power levels will cause the signal to be muted for the associated channel. This method of outputstage

protection is far more effective than the standard limiting found on conventional power amplifiers. The LFC
circuit is sonically transparent in normal use and unobtrusive when activated.

What is the speaker load in Ohms that you are running? Or what exactly is hooked up to it? are you bridging it? The protection light will come on if the load is too much for the amp to handel. If the load (in Ohms) is less than the rated load that it can run, it will stop the output to keep the amp from self destructing. The amp will sense that the demand for power will be too high for the amps circuitry which will either make the amp get so hot that it will burn up the copper on the board or more likely burn up the power mosfetts that power the speakers. If the Ohms are within range then it will allow power to flow through the circuit until the rails that the mosfetts are bound to until they get so hot that it will go into thermal protection. So if your amp has both thermal and overload protection lights and the overload is light then the load is probably too much for the amp. if it's bridged in mono the you can only have 1 speaker setup hooked up it if it's a 2 channel amp. a 4 channel amp bridged in mono for both front and rear channels will be able to have 2 speakers rated a 4 ohms each hooked up to the amp 1 set per bridged output or channel.
Try it running in stereo with only 1 speaker per channel and see if it will produce sound. If not then you have an amp that has internal problems and will need to be serviced. Check your warranty to see if you are covered.

Most amps only have a 4 ohm load......If you give a 2ohm load to a 4 ohm amp.....it will either go into protection mode or get hot....

The red light is a power protection circuit designed to shut the amplifier down due to an overload or wiring problem. If the amp was playing then shut off, my guess is a problem with the speakers or the speaker wiring. Some amplifiers are only stable to a certain load. For example, most car audio speakers are 4 ohms which is the resistance placed upon your amplifier to produce a certain volume of sound. If you bridge two 4 ohm speakers together in parallel, you cut the resistance in half, thus increasing the amount of power (and volume) to your speakers. This also creates more heat and could, in effect, shut your amplifier down. I would find out how the speakers are wired to determine the resistance of the load your amplifier is pushing. Also check the grounding.

ABSOLUTELY!!!!! 4 ohms is the load that all amps are designed to play at. A lot of amps will play at lower loads but that equates to more heat. Less heat means longer amp life!!!

The red light is a power protection circuit designed to shut the amplifier down due to an overload or wiring problem. If the amp was playing then shut off, my guess is a problem with the speakers or the speaker wiring. Some amplifiers are only stable to a certain load. For example, most car audio speakers are 4 ohms which is the resistance placed upon your amplifier to produce a certain volume of sound. If you bridge two 4 ohm speakers together in parallel, you cut the resistance in half, thus increasing the amount of power (and volume) to your speakers. This also creates more heat and could, in effect, shut your amplifier down. I would find out how the speakers are wired to determine the resistance of the load your amplifier is pushing.

You've pretty much hit the nail on the head. Two 2 ohm subs in parallel would give you 1 ohm, and two 2 ohm subs in series would give you 4 ohms. 1 ohm would be overloading the amp but 4 ohms is slightly "underloading" the amp.

Your best solution with the gear you have (i.e. not buying new subs or a new amp) is to put the subs in series (4 ohms). True, you'll be putting about 200W into each sub, but according to page 4 of the owner's manual for the subs, 200W is just a tad under the optimum level recommended for the sub anyway.

The amplifier may be overloaded, check to see if it can handle 4 OHM loads and 2 OHM loads. if it turns off at high volume the amp may be overloaded. if so try a 8 OHM load. if it still turns off it may be an internal problem.

Hi Saint108. You're describing it well, and i know what the problem is already. The MA audio amp, can't hold with a 2 ohm load. It's too low for that amp, that's for sure. Those are budget amps and they are not well built enough to handle low ohm setups like that. It's overheating and there's no ways around it.. Other than wiring your subs differently ! Just wire your sub directly (not in parallel) in a 4 ohm load, you will notice it will stop overheating that much. Do it quick, you'll most likely fry your amp giving it such hard work !! The HUM you're hearing could be related to it also. Try that, and keep me posted on the status. Thanks ! Cheebster.