=1995 volvo road tractor symptom [engine shuts down] code; active,engin e, intake,air,tmp,short,+v

Engine stalls cold or RPM fluctuates at idle up and down or dies near idle.

This problem is commonly caused by a dirty automatic idle speed control valve and throttle valve but always run a OBD2 fault code as well as the cleaning procedure. Buy a can of throttle valve cleaner (do not use carburetor spray cleaner!) from NAPA or Carquest (made by CRC chemicals) and spray it into the air intake while the engine is running, use up about 1/2 the can, engine will try to stall hold the speed up, shut it down and let it soak for 30 minutes, restart and blow out the remaining fluid, shut it down and disconnect the negative battery cable for 5 Min's to reset the base idle control. If the above cleaning doesn't cure your issues you need to have the computer controlled automatic idle speed control system diagnosed and repaired by a dealer or electronic engine control repair shop.

Engine stalls cold or RPM fluctuates at idle up and down or dies near idle.

This problem is commonly caused by a dirty automatic idle speed control valve and throttle valve but always run a OBD2 fault code as well as the cleaning procedure. Buy a can of throttle valve cleaner (do not use carburetor spray cleaner!) from NAPA or Carquest (made by CRC chemicals) and spray it into the air intake while the engine is running, use up about 1/2 the can, engine will try to stall hold the speed up, shut it down and let it soak for 30 minutes, restart and blow out the remaining fluid, shut it down and disconnect the negative battery cable for 5 Min's to reset the base idle control

Some makers used Vacuum releases for their emergency brakes which had a Vacuum switch connected to the shift assembly. This would account for a stumble if Vacuum vented out through this switch.

More common for shifting stumble to occur from Park to Drive, engaging a load on the engine, not to stumble to a freewheeling Park position. Sounds like idle speed control is sluggish to stabilize the motor.

You also have idle speed control problem with A/C, kind of shows that A/C was what kept the engine running because when you turned the A/C off, the car died.

I am going to give you some Websites for wiring diagrams. Alldatadiy.com amd Autozone.com with free wiring info upon registering your vehicle.

It seems that the base Idle speed control is not working and the A/C idle speed control is.

Also check for Vacuum leaks on the intake manifold by spraying water from a pumpbottle on the seams of the gaskets.

Check ignition Relay or ignition switch for random cutouts. The fusebox layout is on the Autozone site.

I hope my solution helps.

Try doing the following.

Engine stalling issue at low speeds

This problem is commonly caused by a dirty automatic idle speed control valve and throttle valve. Buy a can of throttle valve cleaner from NAPA or Carquest (made by CRC chemicals) and spray it into the air intake while the engine is running, use up about 1/2 the can, engine will try to stall hold the speed up, shut it down and let it soak for 30 minutes, restart and blow out the remaining fluid, shut it down and disconnect the negative battery cable for 5 Min's to reset the base idle control

Do the following

Here are the most common causes of idle surge, stalls at stops, slow idle speed, erratic idle speed, rough idle and engine hesitation (and other problems), it is in most cases the idle speed control air-bypass valve and or throttle valve and upper intake, these area's get full of gunk and combustion residue over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake

Hi.


There are many possible reasons while the car will shut down at cold , or when idling or slow.

A good thing to do would be going to the nearest Autozone and doing an error code scanning on the engine. This is free of charge, and will tell you if there is any error codes stored in the car computer.


I will try to summarize possible causes for your problem. I will list only common faults that can cause the car shutting down when you press the pedal after idling.


Air flow problems:
This commonly affect the engine when this is cold.
Check air filter, air intake, MAF (mass airflow) and IAT (intake air temperature). This problems are more noticeable when the engine is cold.

Vacuum problems:
The vacuum system uses recirculated gases in your engine. A vacuum leak or a bad EGR valve can give you troubles, particularly when idling. Vacuum system is tested using an hand tool gauge.


Injection and fuel system:
A malfunctioning fuel pump, a clogged fuel line, or an injector problem may be causing the fault. Pump and lines are tested using the same hand gauge used on vacuum system

Distribution and spark plugs:
If this is the problem, then the engine is shutting down because of misfire. You will get engine warning light on, and the misfire will be reported after doing an error code scanning. When you have distributions problems you can also easily feel that the engine is not running as it should.


Transmission problems.
An automatic transmission malfunction can cause the engine to shut down when you push the pedal. When this is the problem you realize that the cause is the transmission, and that the wrong gear is on.


Other electronic troubles (ECU , wiring, etc)


The best thing to do is trying to understand in what of the condition above you may be, eventually stop at the nearest Autozone and ask a free OBDII scan, or come back to us with a more detailed description of your problem symptoms. OBDII scan can also be done using an hand tester.


Regards.

Do you get a check engine light? If so, read the codes with a scanner and chase down the clues. Does the PCM match the car and engine? Was the original engine a 3.8L? 5 to 10 minutes is not very long for an engine to cool down appreciably. Hopefully, the PCM codes will indicate whether the missing problem is fuel or ignition related.

Check the relays. A worn connection could cause this.
The fuel pump relay is often the culprit.
If you try twisting the relays, gently while it's running, or while you try starting it, you may find the problem.
Hope that's it.

Have the code check and get back to me. You can go to Auto zone and they will check it for free. Good Luck

Follow this procedure I use for these kinds of stalls, please rate this info, thanks..

Here is the most common cause of surges and stalls and low idle, it is the idle speed control air-bypass valve and throttle valve, they get full of gunk over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.