Gas stove stopped working

Coincidences do happen - your ride-on mower was probably one of those but the pattern of electrical problems you have experienced lately does suggest a common fault with your supply.
Could be your house is receiving power surges and maybe you haven't enough surge protection. Perhaps your system ground isn't very good.

One woman that posted here a few months ago was wondering why certain electronics kept breaking. It turned out a gas pipe wasn't grounded and gas flowing through the pipe caused a static electricity charge to build in the pipe until it jumped to whatever was nearby.

You need to consider almost everything these days contains a computer of some sort and so breaks much easier than older appliances, though in fairness appliances today do have a built-in limited life.

WHAT IS WRONG WITH YOUR RANGE / STOVE / OVEN?

For a detailed Range/Stove/Oven illustration, click below.

Gas Free Standing
Electric Free Standing
Gas Cooktop
Electric Cooktop
Gas Walloven
Electric Walloven
Warning!To avoid personal injury or even death, always disconnect yourappliance from its power source--that is, unplug it or break theconnection at the circuit breaker or fuse box--before you do anytroubleshooting or repair work on your appliance. Also, because somecomponents may have sharp edges, use caution while working on yourappliance.

There's an error code on the digital display

It's stopped completely
It won't bake
It bakes poorly
It won't broil
A burner doesn't work
A burner works only intermittently
I can't adjust the burner temperature
It won't bake or broil
The clock stopped
The temperature is wrong
The oven light doesn't work
There's a self-cleaning problem
The oven door won't close
An indicator light doesn't work correctly
The oven is hot on the outside
I see sparks!
The drip pans need replacing

WHAT IS WRONG WITH YOUR RANGE / STOVE / OVEN?

For a detailed Range/Stove/Oven illustration, click below.

Gas Free Standing
Electric Free Standing
Gas Cooktop
Electric Cooktop
Gas Walloven
Electric Walloven
Warning! To avoid personal injury or even death, always disconnect your appliance from its power source--that is, unplug it or break the connection at the circuit breaker or fuse box--before you do any troubleshooting or repair work on your appliance. Also, because some components may have sharp edges, use caution while working on your appliance.

There's an error code on the digital display

It's stopped completely
It won't bake
It bakes poorly
It won't broil
A burner doesn't work
A burner works only intermittently
I can't adjust the burner temperature
It won't bake or broil
The clock stopped
The temperature is wrong
The oven light doesn't work
There's a self-cleaning problem
The oven door won't close
An indicator light doesn't work correctly
The oven is hot on the outside
I see sparks!
The drip pans need replacing

Gas ovens are fitted with at least one safety device and it could be it has failed.

The safety device is bypassed while the pilot light is lit. The pilot light heats a thermocouple bulb which switches the gas on to the burner. As long as the pilot light continues to heat the bulb gas will continue to flow - until the thermocouple fails, they aren't long-lasting...

go outside and see if there is a big red lock on your gas meter valve

Replace the pilot generator and everything will work again. It is a problem with it sensing the flame from the pilot and when the generator stops working it tends to knock everything out

check the power behind the stove, the outlet for 220 volts, i just fix one with the same problem, it was getting 110 volts but not the 220 volts. so there was nothing wrong with the stove but with the power source.when the stove indicator lights work and the clock, it means that only 110 volts are coming to the stove.

Part of the problem was my own ignorance about this particular Kenmore gas oven. It doesn't even have a pilot light. Instead, there is an electric heating element close to the burner which gets so hot that it ignites the gas. It seems that the heating element also doubles as a temperature sensor, so that it opens the gas valve only when the heating element is hot enough to ignite the gas. This heating element, called the "ignitor", no longer gets hot in my oven even though there is 120VAC applied to it when the oven knob is turned on. Therefore, the ignitor is defective. I ordered a new one on-line from "Appliance Parts of America" for $31.50 plus shipping, and this should fix the problem. If it does NOT, I'll add to this post.

Most ovens, unless they have an electric igniter (does it go tick tick tick when plugged in and turned on? If so, it has an electic ignition.) have a pilot light. In order to keep gas from flowing out, and to prevent a possible explosion when the pilot light has gotten put out, they have an electric thermocouple on them that shuts off the gas when it gets cold. Plug the cord back in, and relight your pilot light by holding the lighter (I recommend a fireplace match or bbq lighter, not a cigarette lighter to prevent singed knuckle hairs!) over the thermocouple for a couple of minutes.

to jenna 12 Does your stove have a stop and start timer? When you set your clock you may have inadvertantly moved the stop or start time on that timer. Check them, if they have knobs for setting the stop and start time, make sure the pointer is pointing to the current time and that the knob is popped out and not stuck in. when you have it right both the stop and the start knob should be out, not pushed in. They will pop out when you turn them to the current time.

These timers allow you to start something cookin at a time delayed several hours. this means they will not allow the oven to come on until it hits that time that you may have set in error.

If your stove has a digital stop and start timer check each one so that both show the current time, then your oven should light.