Nylon Coupler cracks when installing

First, I'm not a PLATNUM tech. Your should call your vendor for service. Check warranty!
*** The following is for information only. ***
* Coupling is the direct connection of the electric motor shaft to the pump. Coupling will break from some of the following conditions:
* No oil (in pump). Over heated and froze up piston in vacuum section. Pump needs rebuilding/replacement.
* liquid refrigerant / oil going to pump. The system still has pressure? Vacuum pump is to remove left over gases after system has reached outside air pressure.
* If pump is being used to recover liquids then there needs to be a liquid separator before the vacuum pump to prevent liquids from getting into pump.
* If this pump/motor was serviced and not aligned when coupled together. The coupler may handle minor alignment problems (depending on type of coupler) But you should check it if your having problems with the coupler getting loose or cracking. (it can also be a bent shaft.) Check bearings while your at it.
* Final; Check your warranty BEFORE working on this type of pump.
Aloha, ukeboy57

HEY, STEVEN, I'VE A FIX FOR YOU!

I encountered the SAME PROBLEM in recently (Spr. '18) fixing our GE washing machine. I nor my very strong friend could remove the agitator coupler cap from the drive shaft = it was impossibly stuck. WHAT DID I DO? I CUT IT OFF WITH A DREMEL. The coupler cap is a cheap part (like $12), so it was/ is sacrificial. The trick therein was to be very careful not to damage the shaft --> I cut through the cap very close to the shaft w/ the Dremel, then used a hammer + chisel for the final knock-off.

After the coupler cap was removed, THEN I FIND THE HUB NUT ALSO IMPOSSIBLY STUCK! Not even with a spanner wrench could I remove the thing. MY SOLUTION? I CUT THE HUB NUT OFF WITH THE DREMEL, TOO. Same concern therein: I'd to be very careful not to damage the drive shaft. So I employed the same process: I used the Dremel to cut as close to the shaft as seemed prudent, then chiseled off the nut with a few hammer knocks once the nut was 95% cut through. As w/ the coupler cap, the hub nut is a super cheap part to replace.

HOW DID THESE PARTS BECOME SO STUCK, YOU ASK? My only thought was that the person who'd our washer before us (we purchased it secondhand) might have used excessive amounts of powered detergent. The excessive detergent that didn't dissolve during wash cycles got lodged up between the drive shaft and agitator coupler cap/ hub nut threads & made these parts impossible to budge (seriously, my friend and I used all the leverage/ lubricant we could muster/ creatively force). Just like how grit particles can fill the gap btwn any moving parts and then seize them.

VOILA! IF YOU CAN'T REMOVE IT AS EXPECTED, (CAREFULLY) CUT IT OFF & REPLACE IT!

** 1 - The first image below shows the agitator coupler after I'd completely pulverized & removed it from the drive shaft (I'm holding the remains last to be removed). 2 - The second image shows the hub nut after I'd cut through and removed it. 3 - The third image shows the newly installed replacement hub nut & inner tub base hub (the old tub base hub was completely corroded through & the need to replace it was what initiated the entire fix). 4 - The fourth image shows the newly installed replacement agitator coupler cap. **

Usually indicates a bad turntable motor (accessable from the bottom of the microwave oven), but sometimes (in some cases) the turntable shaft coupler (which is made out of plastic), splits or cracks, so the motor turns, and the shaft slips inside the coupler.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/ronald_e6b9572cebe3ad27

This happens when the pump is installed. When you slide the pump up the shaft and the key slides up the shaft to the curved groove in the engine shaft. When this happens it forces the key to push to far in to the pump hollow shaft and cracks and breaks it

The nylon coupling is either cracked or missing. A flat key extends from the motor shaft and locks into the extension like a paddle in order to move the blades. If you can not find the insert, this style of interlocking is common mechanical design. There are sometimes a spring clip the paddle interlocks with. The nylon insert locks into the blade rod mechanism. I suppose the nylon insert is designed as a replacement part rather than replace the entire blade extension

Hi
The first thing I would check is the coupler. Remove the glass tray and pull the coupler up. Check it for any cracks.If the coupler is fine then the turntable motor has to be replaced.It can be easy replaced after the bottom panel removed - just two screws and the wire plug.
Thanks for using Fixya.

hi,
The first thing I would check is the coupler

Remove the glass tray and pull the coupler up. Check it for any cracks.

If the coupler is fine then the turntable motor has to be replaced.

It can be easy replaced after the bottom panel removed - just two screws and the wire plug.

If you need a replacement turntable coupler, you can find this part listed as item number 942560 at repairclinic.com. Just type in your model number.

To replace, all you need to do is carefully slide something under the existing coupler (if you can) and pry up. The coupler will pull off the motor shaft.

If you cannot access the coupler due to the way it was broken, simply remove the bottom panel UNDER the oven. With the panel removed, locate the small turntable motor and loosen the mounting screws to remove. The coupler should be easily accessible with the motor out of the unit. Make sure you reinstall the turntable motor and bottom panel BEFORE you try to install the new coupler. The coupler needs to be installed from inside the oven cavity by placing it in the opening in the oven floor and pushing straight down onto the motor shaft.

If you have questions, or require additional assistanc, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

I'll answer last question first. They might be cracking because they are in a bind and when turned on or inserted on the shaft there is too much pressure. Make sure the shafts are free of any debris from the original coupling, also check the bearings for wear or being so tight that they twist the coupling. Everything should move freely. And second I would recommend calling Dremel direct at 1-800-437-3635 for replacement parts. Hope this helps.
Dave

Does not agitate, does it spin? If it doesnt you have a coupler failure. If it does spin then the agitator dogs have worn to the point of no return.

This is the link for a coupler;
http://www.repairclinic.com/SmartSearch/SSPartDetail.aspx?PartID=278912&PPStack=1
The coupler is accessed by pulling the machine out 2 feet and tilting it back to expose the bottom of the machine. Once done follow the pump( has two hoses attached) to the motor and after that is the gearcase. Between the motor and the gearcase is a coupler. There is a small gap between a black plate where the motor attaches and the gearcase.Reach from front to the plate and feel behind it up in the gap. This is where the coupler is and if you feel soft spots or if you try to rotate it and it separates get a flashlight and a friend to spot hold the machine while you crawl under to look at it. You need to look at the white flanges for cracks and push on the flanges while checking. If so this machine is designed to be an easy fix. The pump removes by popping the clips top and bottom as well the motor with the addition of 2 1/4 inch hex screws and a wire harness plug( may have one to three additional wires for a capacitor and a switch, two red and a white wire). Once the motor is off you can see better as to what the damage is... If the coupler falls apart upon removing the motor finish removing it from both sides. When replacing I use a 9 inch extension and a deep well socket about 1/2 in size to seat the flanges flush to the motor and gear case shafts using a small hammer not hitting to hard.
This is the link for the agitator dogs;
http://www.repairclinic.com/SmartSearch/SSPartDetail.aspx?PartID=3109&PPStack=1

For the agitator a sure test is to reach in and rotate the agitator back and forth, it should only go one direction, if it is free then this is the problem.
The dogs are below the softener cup on the agitator,when removed you will see a seal cap that has to be removed. After this you will see a round insert with a 7/16 or 1/2 inch bolt attaching it to the gearcase spindle. once out the agitator assembly will pull out separating into a lower and top half. The top if turned upside down will dump the contents of the agitator dog assembly. These are simple to replace and if there is no retainer, a little vaseline will stick them long enough to re assemble, just watch how they remove and note any fins and notchs use between the upper and lower halfs to align them.