Leviton Decora Switch 5626-A with pilot light - need wiring diagram

Don't break away the tab.
It sounds like you have Hot wire connected to wrong side of device.

Electricians don't guess, they test.
Separate wires. Turn power ON.
Test each wire to bare ground.
Tester lights up on Hot wire.

Hot connects to brass screw(s). This will feed power into each switch.
Wires going to Load (lights) connect to each silver screw.

easy one first: ground wire to green screw. We have to assume the two black wires are the hot(coming from power source) and switch leg(going to light). Switch will have two brass colored screws. Looking at the switch with the off/on markings right side up. Put hot wire on upper screw and switch leg on other brass screw, With nothing hooked up, the hot wire will be the only wire with voltage on it. You can buy a non-contact voltage tester at Lowes or any place that sells electrical supplies. Now we must assume the two white wires are neutrals(one coming from power source and one going to light. The pilot light part of the switch will either have a silver colored screw or a white pigtail on it. all whites hook together. The pilot light is wired internally to the switch leg. Your switch should work properly now.

You have switch-plug combo.
1) Screws are color-coded.
Dark screws, brass screw, silver screw.

2) Electricians don't guess, they test
-Separate wires for testing. Do not untwist any wires that are twisted together. Note which wires were connected on same screw on previous device.
-Tape tester leads to wood sticks to keep hands away from power
-Turn power ON
-Test each wire to bare ground wire.
-Tester lights up on Hot wire. Hot connects to dark screw.

-Hot is identified.
-Test Hot to all other wires, except bare ground.
-Tester lights up on Neutral. Neutral connects to silver screw.

-Final wire goes to Load (light, fan, motor). This wire connects to brass screw.

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Electrical devices have color-coded screws.

Electricians don't guess, they test.
You have tested the wires.

1) Combo switch-outlet device screws are dark - brass - silver - green
Hot to dark
Neutral to silver
Load wire (wire that goes to light, fan, motor) to brass
Bare ground to green screw

2) If you want switch to control the outlet on the combo device.
-Device must have 2 dark screws
-Look at dark screws, there is a break-away fin that connects dark screws.
-Remove break-away fin.
--Now there is one dark screw for the switch part of device, and one dark screw for outlet part.
-Connect Hot to dark-for-switch.
-Run jumper wire from brass screw to dark-for-outlet.
-Neutral to silver
-Switch on combo device will operate outlet on combo device

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For what you want to do, the side of the device that has the two brass screws tied together with a metal break off tab is _not_ used, and do not break off the tab ("tie") On the other side of the device, connect the white (neutral) wire to the silver screw and the black hot wire to the brass screw that is just above the silver screw on that same side.

It is unclear what pilot-light-switch is supposed to turn on-and-off.

Option A) pilot-light-switch is going to turn GFCI on-and-off
Option B) pilot-light-switch is getting power from existing GFCI circuit, and switch controls another Load (light, fan or motor) located elsewhere.

Add a comment at any point.
Bare copper wire always connects to green screw.

1) I have a Cooper pilot-light-switch in my office.
Black Hot wire from breaker always connects to dark-colored screw(s).
White Neutral wire from breaker box connects to silver-colored screw
Wire going to Load (light, fan, motor) connects to brass colored screw.

2) Two things happen when pilot-light-switch turns ON:
a) Pilot light turns on. This circuit is powered by black Hot wire, and circuit is complete with white Neutral.
b) Brass screw that had no power, is now powered.

The GFCI:
Hot from breaker always connects to brass-colored Line screw
Neutral from breaker connects to silver-colored screw that is opposite Line screw.
If other switches and plugs are going to be protected by GFCI, they connect to brass Load screw and to silver screw that is opposite Load screw


Option A) You want pilot-light-switch to turn on GFCI receptacle.
a) Wire pilot-light-switch as described above
b) Black wire from GFCI line-screw connects to brass screw on pilot-light-switch.
c) White wire from GFCI silver-screw-opposite-line-screw connects to any white Neutral.

Option B) Pilot-light-switch is getting power from GFCI receptacle AND you want pilot light switch protected by GFCI.
a) Black wire on pilot-light dark screw connects to Load screw on GFCI
b) White wire on pilot-light silver connects to silver screw on GFCI that is opposite Load screw

Option C) same as option B except pilot-light-switch is NOT protected by GFCI.
a) Black wire on pilot-light dark screw connects to Line screw on GFCI or any Hot wire
b) White wire on pilot-light silver connects to silver screw on GFCI that is opposite Load screw or to any Neutral wire

You don't need a wiring diagram.
The screws tell the story.

On one side of device has 2 screws.
On other side has 2 screws.
Green screw is for bare ground wire.

1) One side will have dark screws and the other side will have brass screws. The dark screws will be connected together with a brass plate. The brass screws will be separate.
-or-
2) One side will have brass screws and the other side will have silver screws. The brass screws will be connected together with a brass plate. The silver screws will be separate.

#1 Hot from breaker connects to dark screw. Wires to Load (light,fan) connect to brass screws.
-or-
#2 Hot from breaker connects to brass screw. Wires to Load (light, fan) connect to silver screws.

Review old switches:
Two old switches > each has 2 wires
Old switch 1 > Red and White
Old switch 2 > Black and White
The same white wire connects to both switches, so effectively they count as 1 wire
This means you have 3 wires ... 1 White, 1 Red, 1 Black
Each switch controls a separate load (light, fan, motor)

New Leviton double-rocker switch:
-Leviton has 2 Brass-colored screws on one side, and these screws are connected together by a brass plate >> your Hot wire will connect to brass screw
-Leviton has 2 Silver-colored screws on other side, and neither of these screws are connected in any way >> the wires going to each load will connect on a different screw on this side of switch.

Hot wire: Each box in your house has exactly 1 hot wire that is connected back to breaker box. This is true for all boxes (excluding boxes that have a 3-way & 4-way switches).
We need to identify Hot wire.

-By code the Hot wire is black for identification purposes ... but your box sounds like maybe the Hot wire is White.
-If your Hot wire is white, that is NOT an immediate safety issue ... it will not cause a fire or malfunction ... it is a code violation ... because code requires things be uniform so next electrician knows what previous guy did. So some day, electrician working outside grabs wrong color wire, and wow. I say this so you know.

Moving on.

Identify Hot wire:
-Pull 3 wires up so they can be tested
-Turn on power
-Use ordinary tester, or old lamp with plug cut off and wires stripped back
-Tape tester lead to sticks so hands are away from voltage
-Power is on. Don't stand in water or touch metal pipes, and you're fine.
-You have 3 wires in box + ground wire
-Test all 3 wires to bare ground wire >> when tester lights up, that is Hot wire ... testing is complete

Connect wires to Leviton double-rocker:
-Power is OFF.
-You have 3 wires - 1 White, 1 Black, 1 Red >> one is Hot wire, the other two wires go to load
-Hot wire connects to Brass-colored screws on new Leviton.
-Brass colored screws are connected together by a brass plate so the Hot does not need to connect to both brass screws.
-The other two wires connect to Silver screws on other side of new Leviton switch
-One wire goes to each silver screw
-Connect bare ground wire to green screw.
-Push wires back into box. Use eraser end of pencil if needed.
-Make sure ground wire is back and away from screws on switch
-That's it.

This is a single pole light switch and should be wired as any other SP switch. The only difference is that is has a pilot light. All the white neutral wires are tied together and then pushed back in the box with none connected to the switch. The grounds are tied together with a jumper wire connected to the green screw on the switch. That will leave you with 2 or more black wires. If you have just two normally you can connect them to the two screws on the switch and it does not matter which screws. However it may be that with the pilot light you need to connect the wire going to the light to the top screw and the power wire to the bottom or vice versa. Try both ways. If you have more than 2 black wires you need to connect the incoming power black wire and outgoing power black wires together and then jump to one of the screws on the switch. The black wire left over is the black wire going to the light itself. If none of this works then it is obvious the pilot light in the switch is burnt out.

The 4-way terminals are labelled “In” and “Out” (two of each). The mechanics of this switch are simple, in that they either switch the travellers straight through, or criss-cross them.
(2) white wires - 1 on each silver terminal
(2) black wires - 1 on each brass terminal


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