Overload light on can't get any sound

sounds like the freeon got out a leak?

You have an overload in the power amp section. I suspect one or maybe more of the devices on the big heatsink has shorted out. Also check that speakers and cables are all good before trying the unit out agian.

Your Soundcraftsmen's transformer is ok. The protection circuit is kicking in and clicking because there's a problem on the outputs or else where.
Go to this link and read the last page for possible solutions. WARNING: Do not perform the reapir yourself if you do not have proper experience with high voltages!!!

It's probably just a shorted speaker cable.

Generally speaking, an amp attempts to protect itself from heat, shorts, overloads and operator exuberance by refusing to turn on or stay on.

Overloads can be from excessive periods of high output or
marginally low impedance loading by the speakers; and shorts would be wiring issues or a speaker blowing up.

You should be able to feel if it's hot. WHY is it overheating? Make sure it has sufficient ventilation on all sides and that vent holes are not blocked by dust balls. Ensure the fan (if equipped) is
running as designed (some only operate on demand). Clean dust and debris from it.

If the amp comes back on after cooling, you're lucky. They only have so many self-protection cycles in their lives so continuously resetting or cycling their power without addressing the cause can do more harm than good.

If it protects immediately on a cool power up you should disconnect the speaker connections and try it 'nekkid'. If it comes up then diagnose which lead(s) are shorted. If it does not come up the problem is internal and should be left to an experienced and competent hands-on tech.

The problem with amps is they generate lots of heat when they are working and semi-conductors don't like heat, so overtime they fail. In your case either somekind of protection circuit has stopped an overload or one of the main semi-conductors that does the work has failed. It's off to the repair shop with it!

Sounds like a short in the brake light circuit that overloads the alternator.
I'd check / replace the bulbs for brake lights.

I had this happen once...
When you brake...your brake lights come on.
BUT, because the bottom of the bulb or bulbs have shorted, this provides a path for your running lights and dashlights to come on as well and the short tends to overload the alternator causing the flickering battery light.

Because the alternator is taking an overload like that...I'd have it and the battery checked for proper performance.

I'll bet the back bulbs or bulb sockets need attention...

Hope this helps...

If it won't turn on it won't do anything at a higher level of function.

Perhap it's self-protecting.

Generally speaking, an amp attempts to protect itself from heat, shorts, overloads and operator exuberance by refusing to turn on or stay on.

Overloads can be from excessive periods of high output or marginally low impedance loading by the speakers; and shorts would be wiring issues or a speaker blowing up.

You should be able to feel if it's hot. WHY is it overheating? Make sure it has sufficient ventilation on all sides and that vent holes are not blocked by dust balls. Ensure the fan (if equipped) is running as designed (some only operate on demand). Clean dust and debris from it.

If the amp comes back on after cooling, you're lucky. They only have so many self-protection cycles in their lives so continuously resetting or cycling their power without addressing the cause can do more harm than good.

If it protects immediately on a cool power up you should disconnect the speaker connections and try it 'naked'. If it comes up then diagnose which lead(s) are shorted. If it does not come up the problem is internal and should be left to an experienced and competent hands-on tech.

What is the make and model, it sounds like its going into overload protection, if the speakers aren't hooked up you have some bad components in the output section.

Generally speaking, an amp attempts to protect itself from heat, shorts, overloads and operator exuberance by refusing to turn on or stay on.

Overloads can be from excessive periods of high output or marginally low impedance loading by the speakers; and shorts would be wiring issues or a speaker blowing up.

You should be able to feel if it's hot. WHY is it overheating? Make sure it has sufficient ventilation on all sides and that vent holes are not blocked by dust balls. Ensure the fan (if equipped) is running as designed (some only operate on demand). Clean dust and debris from it.

If the amp comes back on after cooling, you're lucky. They only have so many self-protection cycles in their lives so continuously resetting or cycling their power without addressing the cause can do more harm than good.

If it protects immediately on a cool power up you should disconnect the speaker connections and try it 'naked'. If it comes up then diagnose which lead(s) are shorted. If it does not come up the problem is internal and should be left to an experienced and competent hands-on tech.

Check for loose speaker connections at the speaker as a root cause for ntermittent shutdown.

http://nadelectronics.com/products/hifi-amplifiers/C-326BEE-Stereo-Integrated-Amplifier

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try this mate:
http://www.electronicspoint.com/googlesearch.php?cx=002919058480771089906%3A03mranmmdze&cof=FORID%3A10&ie=UTF-8&q=Technics+SA-GX550&sa=Search#862