Black Monitor when booting up

SOURCE: Comes on for about five seconds and then goes dark

I had the same problem with Capacitor C922. Just replaced it with a 35v, and now the monitor just blips on and off constantly (the power light goes on and off). There are other listings for this problem on this site, but no answers it seems...

SOURCE: Monitor just black

I would guess the capacitors are bulging or leaking. It can be repaired if you are handy with a soldering iron. Good Luck.

SOURCE: LiquidVideo L17LCD2 17 in. Flat Panel LCD Monitor - Power Issues

firstly stop turning it off and on because you will blow something else like a power board then it will be a big paper weight.
next get a torch and when it is powered on and supposed to be showing images, shine the torch at the screen.
if you can see everything then you have a broken backlight or problem with your backlight and connections.
they cost approx £15 and a little labour, its not a big job. you may be able to do it yourself if you can get hold of a service manual.

SOURCE: when booting up my computer,

There's a good chance you have failing electrolytic capacitors either in the power section or the inverter section or both.
Any caps in these sections that look bulged at the top, or bulged/leaking at the bottom need to be replaced.
If you repeatedly turn it off and on, eventually it'll probably stay on, but every time you turn it off, the TV will get harder and harder to start up until one day it just won't.
Sometimes you have to do the opposite to start it up and unplug it for some time and then try again.

If you aren't tech savvy, don't worry, read the rest of this solution and watch the videos.

If you are handy with a soldering iron and can identify the power supply and inverter / FM section for the backlights, an inexpensive handful of capacitors will likely fix you right up.
Match the capacitance on the capacitors. Go over voltage if you can, and still have them fit.
IE - it's not a bad idea to replace a 10V cap with a 16V or 25V or even a 50V, but don't replace a 680uF cap with a 500uF or a 1000uF (unless you are positive it's only doing ripple filtering, and even then, you should go OVER, not under the uF rating).

Most of the caps that go are 10V 1000uF or 3300uF.

I found some great videos of the procedure (for many Samsungs with the same issue) on youtube.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mm51C_RDIZE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BNHHrgX_6cs&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8l0AUj8QUkg&NR=1&feature=fvwp
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y7b_nTaZYcU&feature=related

As you can see, this issue spans plasma TVs, as well as large and small LCD TVs and monitors.
The parts are cheap, and skill required is minimal.