Bose Acoustimass fuse replacement

Yes, the Bose Acoustimass 15 Series 3 system does have an internal fuse that can be a potential cause for the lack of power and sound. If the system is not receiving power or showing any LED indicator lights, it's worth checking the fuse as a first step in troubleshooting.
To access the fuse in the Acoustimass module, follow these steps:

1. Ensure the system is unplugged: Before working on any electrical components, make sure the Acoustimass module is completely disconnected from the power source.
2. Locate the fuse compartment: The fuse compartment is typically located on the back or bottom of the Acoustimass module. It may be covered by a removable panel or secured with screws.
3. Open the fuse compartment: Remove the panel or screws to access the fuse compartment. Inside, you should see the fuse holder.
4. Check the fuse: Inspect the fuse visually to see if it is blown or damaged. If the fuse appears blackened, broken, or melted, it is likely blown and needs to be replaced.
5. Replace the fuse: If the fuse is blown, replace it with a new one of the same type and rating. Ensure you use a fuse with the correct amperage specified by the manufacturer. It's a good practice to keep spare fuses of the appropriate rating on hand for future needs.
6. Close the fuse compartment: After replacing the fuse, securely close the fuse compartment and ensure it is properly sealed.
7. Plug in the system: Reconnect the Acoustimass module to the power source and turn it on. Check if the LED indicator lights up and if sound is produced.

get solder iron to low set up on circuit board with silver solder

I guess it is powered.If so,check the fuse,then transformer.If these are Ok,then there's probably a fault in the power circuit.

The fact that everything but the power amp is still working, it could be only a fuse protecting the output that needs replacement although this fuse is probably circuit-wise after the main fuse you have already replaced and could be soldered on the board. Worst case, the output modules are blown and require replacement and depending on the power level it may be worth repairing instead of replacing.
Most modern electronic devices can be set or adapted to line voltages from 100-240 Volts and a good percentage of the devices, using the common switched mode power supply don't need any changes made by the user since they can be inherently 'auto-ranging.'

Of course it's worth it - just unsolder the old fuse and solder a new one in. But first make sure the fuse is really blown. Buy a cheap $10 ohmmeter and check it - a good fuse will make the meter respond, or make the ohmmeter beep. Note that a blown fuse might still make the ohmmeter respond, since other circuits connected to the fuse will affect the reading. So look for zero ohms. If you get like 5 or 10 ohms or more, the fuse is blown. It may not be the fuse, but this is the first step to find out. Best way to check fuses is to unsolder and lift one end, so that you're only reading the fuse.

If the circuit board has a charred area, you have another problem besides the resistor. A short or overload likely caused the resistor to burn. Probably a blown output transistor(s) or chip(s), which generally short when they fail. This creates an overload in the circuit which burns up the load resistor - probably.

Call Bose tech support. They fix or replace these under warranty. I have a lifestyle 12, original model, after two repairs in. Ore than 10 years, I was allowed to upgrade to top of the line for the price difference.

same problem, i found the transformer looks like the wax or glue melted down on the cir board . . . not sure if that the problem but has anybody seeing the same ?

Sounds like you may have a blown output transistor or chip, which generally show no external signs of damage. This would take an experienced technician to find and fix, and I commend you for knowing to check the speakers, receiver and cables through substitution! If you're handy with a soldering iron and can find the parts, try replacing the output transistors or chips in question. These are what usually fail in audio power amplifiers - also check any power resistors for opens - some of them are designed to act as fuses to protect the more expensive components.

For the AWR1-1W turn it over and there are 4 screws that you must remove. When your looking at the circuit board the fuse is just below the power supply and back of radio. If the radio makes a ‘POP’ sound when you unplug it may not be the fuse as power is getting past the fuse. I have the same trouble with mine. I called BOSE Tech and he said if it makes that ‘POP’ sound after unplugging it is not fuse or power supply. They will not even allow me to send it in for repairs as the radio is over 15 years old and considered unserviceable.

Maybe someone else can give us a quick fix.