Changer rear brake rotors & brake pads

• Well when you looked at the brake pads after your drive were the pads stuck to the rotor?
• First thing to do is double check your pad and rotor installation.
• Also check to make sure the right parts were installed.
• When you pushed back the pistons on your calipers did they flow back nice and smooth? Did they wedge in and get stuck? This would make the pads drag.
• If you used grease did you get some on the pad by accident? If this is the case it will burn off.

• How is the car stopping for you? Properly? Do you hear any grinding while driving slow? While driving fast? Over heating rotors will turn a bluish stain. That is when it is really time to be worried.
• If your brakes are not dragging then give some time for the pads to ware in.
• If the piston is stuck forcing the pads against the rotor all the time then you need to replace the calipers.
• Don't forget to bleed the lines afterword.

Regards, Tony

Those are special calipers. The piston cannot be just compressed back into the caliper - it needs to be turned as it is compressed or you can ruin the caliper.There is a kit you can rent from AutoZone or many independent auto parts stores that will perform both functions at the same time.
Block fron wheels and raise vehicle passenger side. Remove wheel. The caliper is on the top rear side of the assembly you're looking at.There are 2 long bolts you'll need to remove to take the caliper off the vehicle. Don't remove the brake line or open the bleeder screw ( either of these moves will add to your work!! ) Insert a large flat blade screwdriver in between the rotor and outboard brake pad and pry away from the vehicle slightly to release the pads from the rotor. Slide caliper upwards and towards the back of the vehicle to separate from rotor. The pads will come in a full set ( all 4 pads for both side of the rear ) . Look at your replacement pads and determine if they have a retainer clip holding them in place or a compression clip. Remove outboard pad first then inboard. Match old pads to replacement pads. Inspect rotor for grooves and irregular surfaces - if any grooves or irregularity present, remove rotor and take to an auto parts store for refinishing.Compress caliper piston with kit and allow 5 minutes for pressure to bleed back into the master cylinder.install rotor if removed and wipe surfaces with brake clean. Install inboard then outboard pad and place caliper on rotor, then mount to vehicle. Install wheel, repeat procedure for drivers side, then PUMP BRAKE PEDAL 5 TIMES BEFORE TRYING TO DRIVE VEHICLE to set pads on rotors.

Good Evening, your problem is a normal wear and tear issue as that over time brake rotors can become slightly warped and the only time you feel it is when you step on your brakes. A normal rule of thumb on those systems is if you feel it in the steering wheel when you step on the brakes it is your front rotors, and if you feel it in your seat it is the rear rotors. Always change your brake pads at the same time you change your rotors to help the longevity of the brake pads. Glad to help.
Thanks,
Joey

Yes, it has rear Disc Brakes, I would suggest to change the rear pads since they have to remove the rear Brake Calipers to remove the rotors and it wouldn't take much more time or labor to replace the pads at that point. That way when your rear rotors are re-installed and your new brake pads are installed your rear brakes should give you longer service life and better stopping power.

Rear disc brake pads offer better performance and are not as affected by moisture like conventional brake shoe style brakes are. Rear disc brakes are similar to front disc brakes. The main difference is that rear disc brake systems must incorporate the emergency brake system. There are two methods widely used for the emergency brake with rear disc systems. The first system is a brake shoe inside the brake disc that is actuated by the emergency brake lever. The second is a screw style actuator inside the brake caliper. When activated the brake pads are forced into the brake disc and held tightly by the emergency brake lever.
READ COMPLETELY BEFORE STARTING
Step 1 - Identify Rear Disc Brake Components
Rear disc brake assembly includes; rear brake disc, rear brake pads, brake caliper mount and a caliper mounting screw. (Note: Some vehicles do not have the rotor mounting screw.)
Step 2 - Removing the Rear Brake Caliper Mount Bolts
To replace rear brake pads and rotors the rear brake caliper needs to be removed. First loosen the rear brake caliper mount bolts and remove them. Turn counter clockwise.
Step 3 - Lift Rear Brake Caliper from The Caliper Mount
After the caliper mount bolts have been removed, gently lift the brake caliper from the caliper mount. Inspect the caliper slides; they should move freely in the caliper mount. Remove rear brake pads and hardware.

Step 4 - Removing Caliper Mount Bolts
With a socket wrench or other appropriate removal tool, loosen the rear brake caliper mounting bolts. Remove bolts and lift the caliper mount and remove it from the vehicle. Remove the retaining screw from the disc mounting hole. Tap the rotor gently to release any rust that has accumulated between the rotor and bearing hub. Lift brake rotor from wheel hub holding on tightly, using both hands. You do not want to drop the rotor.

Step 5 - Removing Rear Brake Rotor
Remove the retaining screw from the disc mounting hole, tap the rotor gently to release any rust that has accumulated between the rotor and bearing hub. Lift brake rotor from wheel hub, hold on using both hands and do not drop.

Step 6 - Install New Brake Rotor
Check the new rotor against the old brake rotor to make sure they are the same size. Clean the mating surface on the wheel hub before the new brake rotor is installed. Reinstall rotor retainer screw.
Step 7 - Reset Rear Brake Caliper
Before new brake pads can be installed, the rear brake caliper must be reset. The reset tool winds the piston back into position so the new brake pads will fit. This style of brake caliper will not compress with a clamp tool; it can only be reset with the proper reset tool.
Step 8 - Reinstall Rear Caliper Mount and Install New Rear Brake Pads
After the caliper has been reset, reinstall caliper mounting bolts and make sure the bolts are tight. Then match up the old brake pads to the new brake pads. They should be exactly the same except, of course; the old ones will be worn out. Check the new brake pads for proper fit and install any brake hardware that is required.
Step 9 - Remount Rear Brake Caliper
Reinstall the brake caliper, align brake pad hardware and reinstall caliper mounting bolts. (Note: align the rear peg of the brake pad to the groove in the caliper piston.) Recheck and retighten all caliper and caliper mount bolts. Bleed brake system to relieve any air in the system. Before driving the vehicle, push the brake pedal down and let it up slowly. This operation forces the brake pads to travel to the brake rotors. DO NOT DRIVE VEHICLE until proper brake pedal operation resumes. When test driving vehicle listen for any unusual noises during the operation of the brakes.
WARNING! Always have the vehicle under inspection on level ground, in park with the emergency brake on. Always wear protective eyewear, gloves and necessary clothing before inspection or work begins. Never crank an engine over when anyone is near the battery or engine. Always have an operational fire extinguisher close by, obey all first aid instructions in the event of an injury. Never stand in front or behind a vehicle when cranked over or running. When engine is cranked over keep hands and clothing away from rotating components. Never move a car without proper brake pedal operation.

That's to be expected and is completely normal.

Rear brake shoes as fitted to drum brakes can typically last up to 60k miles with periodic adjustments, but you have rear disc brakes and the shoes will typically last half of that.

Also, modern brake pads no longer contain asbestos and are now made using harder metallic compounds; the direct result is that brake discs (US=rotors) are also considered to be consumable items as they are worn down by the harder pads. It's not unusual to have to replace front discs every other pad change and rear ones with every pad change; in both cases the mileage will typically be around 30k miles on most models.

The best way to answer you question is to tell you to take the vehicle to your nearest dealer and inquire with the parts dept. I can tell you that on the ffront of your car you have rotors and the brake used on the front is called a pad. Also your vehicle does not have a separate parking brake. It is the same as the regular rear brake no matter which type of brakes you have on the back.

I changed the rear pads this fall, have you removed the caliper retaining bolts and the Park Brake Cable? I remember the cable being a pain and using a large hammer and pry bar to loosen the caliper. You can pry on the edge of the pad and the hat section of the rotor. The rear rotors aren't expensive and should be done at the same time.

The rear brakes are very easy to change. There is nothing to worry about due to it being a 4-wheel vehicle and you only need to change the rotors if they are at minimum specs(printed on the rotor itself). If you don't have a micrometer to check the rotor thickness, then look at the edge of the rotor for a lip. A tall lip on the edge indicates it is best to change the rotors. Also, if the mileage is over 60k miles or you live in a cold climate(where there is a lot of sand/salt on the roads), it's a good idea to double check your parking brakes. But be careful when removing the rotors, they can hang up on the parking brake pad and potentially pull the pad loose. If the rotors are frozen on, use a lubricant like wd-40 on the center of the rotor and let it soak in, then tap around the outside edge of the rotor/hub area with a hammer to break it free.

Yes, depending on the quality of the rotor, in extreme conditions it can rust out quicker. The brake pad graps the rotor, 'cleaning' it as it stops the vehicle. If the vehicle sits for a long period of time then it is more likely to accumulate rust. If a rotor gets out of balance, (this is what causes your vibration) it needs to be remachined. The rotor can only be machined so many times before it is too thin to use. The rear rotor must be thinner than the front rotor. Since this is a vital part of your brake system, it's money well spent to help insure your safety.