Fisher and Paykel GWL11 Top Load Washer Logo

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Mick Posted on Oct 18, 2011
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Hi, i have a Fisher and Paykel GW709au and the water will not stop filling to the point it will overflow. I have taken the hose off the Auto water level and can blow bubbles with it so i dont think it is blocked. This happens regardless of whether i use the auto or set water levels., or Hot or cold water. The auto water sensor is in the board which is $173 to replace or could it be the water inlet solenoids or something completely different. please help.

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keith jones

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  • Fisher and P... Master 747 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 21, 2018
keith jones
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Ok if when you push pause the water stops its not your solenoid but the transducer which is built into your main computer board which you will need to replace

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 350 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 21, 2009

SOURCE: Fisher and Paykel washer dripping water into tub.

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Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on May 12, 2009

SOURCE: Fisher & Paykel GWL11 Leaking water

If you cannot see the water leaking from the inlet valves, check the seal just above the water pump located directly under the drum. I am in the midst of awaiting parts to fix this very thing on my FP GWL11. This leak is dripping water directly onto the motor, causing it to trip the circuit breaker during drain/spin cycles.

Note... I have also had to have the inlet valve assembly replaced as well as it was not opening to allow cold water to mix with the hot.

Hope this helps.

Anonymous

  • 15935 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 14, 2010

SOURCE: changing inlet valve

If you suspect you have a defective Water Inlet valve (also known as a FILL valve or MIXING valve) it can easily be diagnosed by performing the following steps:

- First, make sure the water taps are turned on all the way, and the fill hoses are not kinked in anyway. If everything checks okay, proceed to the next step.
- Now, turn the water taps off, disconnect the fill hoses from the back of the washer and place them in the wash tub. Turn the taps back on and make sure you have proper and forceful water flow (minimum water pressure should be 10-25PSI).
- Check the sediment screens on the Water Inlet valve on the back of the washer. Sometimes these screens will clog with rust or sediment and prevent water flow. Cleaning with some distilled vinegar works well.

If you've attempted all the steps above, but still have no luck, more than likely the inlet valve is bad and requires replacement. Please, read all instructions thoroughly BEFORE attempting. This is a simple repair that any "Do-It-Yourselfer" can accomplish. Follow the steps provided:

1. Unplug washing machine.

2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.

a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.

b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.

3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.

4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.

5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.

6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components.

7. The inlet valve is located on the back panel with two or more sets of electrical connectors attached to it. The connectors are usually color-coded to indicate which valve is HOT and which valve is COLD (In the case of a Mixing Valve, you may have additional electrical connectors). Remove the connectors and check the contacts for corrosion. Sometimes a good cleaning can restore a valve solenoid to working order. (You may want to label the connectors, if necessary, to ensure you know how they go back on).

8. Disconnect the small rubber water hose(s) attached to valve with a pair of pliers to release the hose clamps. Inspect the hose(s) for any evidence of cracking.

9. With the water hose(s) removed, loosen the mounting screw(s) and the inlet valve comes off.

10. Re-install new inlet valve following these steps in reverse order. Pay careful attention to make sure you correctly connect the HOT & COLD electrical connections (RED is usually the HOT water side). Make sure all hoses are fitted back in place and the hose clamps are snug.

11. Re-install washer case. With the lid of the washer open, place grasp case under front rim and place it on the washer frame. While looking down through the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of the case is placed UNDER the washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to ensure that the small cleats on the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the washer case base. If you do not get the case seated correctly it will rattle and vibrate while the washer is in operation.

12. Make the back of the washer fits into the washer casing on each side and reinsert the brass clips. Place the clip into the slot on the back of the washer first, and then forcefully push it into the opening on top of the washer. It will snap back into to place.

13. REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to forget. If you do not reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.

14. Reinstall console.


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Anonymous

  • 1554 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 24, 2010

SOURCE: My Fisher and Paykel GW709AU

It sounds like there's a problem in the water inlet system. The machine repeats the process several times because of the Restart Feature which retries starting the machine to correct the problem. The machine completely stops and sounds the alarm because the Restart Feature failed to correct the problem. The fault code is indicated as a series of flashing Wash Progress LEDs.

Indicate explicitly which among the Wash Progress LEDs are lit or flashing to determine what and where the problem really is for further troubleshooting. You don't have to accept or reject and rate this post to add information, comments, and follow-up questions. But accepting the solution will not terminate your communication with the expert. You may continue communicating with the expert as long as you need assistance regarding the issue stated herein.

Owen Barnes

  • 867 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 25, 2010

SOURCE: manual book for fisher and

Hi, Sorry this is not a better copy but i hop it helps
Manual Link

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DebsteveI have a fisher and paykel washing machine, GW709au and it is not rinsing properly. I have reduced the load size and the amount of powder but it still happens. On dark items you can see white...

Hi - it sounds like the water levels not right? - try this out first when washing a load overide the auto sensing to a suitable level pending on the load - High for a full load etc & see how the washing comes out, a lot of times the auto level control will not have as much water in the drum as one would like, so to speak..

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Fisher and paykel GW709 fill valve problem

the rods have nothing to do with the water level switch. I say check ur water switch with a meter. you may have defective coils, also check the water pressure switch




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Help! My fisher paykel washing machine won't stop filling up!

If the water continues to fill even if unplugged the water valve is sticking and needs replaced. if removing power turns the water off the water level pressure switch is bad or there is something plugging the sensor tube somewhere.
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This is another control panel switch, usually located next to the temperature switch. There is a small hose connected to this switch, and sometimes this hose becomes loose and falls off the connection. When this happens, the water in the tub usually overflows. To solve this problem, cut about 1/2 inch off the end of the hose and use a push fit to reconnect it to the switch.

The switch itself can also malfunction, resulting in tub overflow and other water-level trouble in the tub. If you suspect this switch is faulty, remove it by backing out the screws holding it in place. Take it to a professional service person for testing. If the switch is faulty, replace it with a new one of the same size and type. Connect the new switch the same way the old one was connected..PLEASE RATE IT......
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Will not advance from fill cycle

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