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Posted on Sep 13, 2008
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Loose tub on GE WJSR2080V

When my washing machine goes into spin cycle with above average amount of clothes in it, the tub wobbles way more than other machines I am used to. It bangs so loud that it can be heard loudly throughout the house. It has gotten worse over time and I believe that the tub must be loose. How can I check that in this model and what is best way to fix?

Thanks.

  • jack837 Sep 13, 2008

    I checked and all 4 dampening straps are connected. Also, the inner tub and outer tub do not rock independently. Is it the dampening straps that stabilize the tub? Do some models have dampening straps with not enough tautness and therefore the give can become problematic?

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  • Master 1,543 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 13, 2008
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Reach (or look) over the tub, just under the metal top, at the four corners of the machine to see if the rubber tab dampening straps are OK. (not broken) If broken, use putty knife to push in 2 spring clips at very top of front panel (a couple inches in from the L and R side) and pull to take front panel off. Remove two 1/4 hex head screws holding top to side panels. Remove top. (looks like your model has a lid switch which can be unplugged by the back splash.)
Also check that the inner tub does not rock independently of the outer tub. If it does, pull agitator and tighten large left hand threaded nut.

  • Anonymous Sep 14, 2008

    No, the dampening straps are fine if not broken. Tub is stabilized by the shock absorber style suspension rods (four corners of machine) and the fluid filled ring sealed into the top of the inner wash basket. From what you checked, sounds like your machine is fine. You could set your mind at ease by comparing your washer to a friend's, as long as it is a similar model. Do not compare to new ones on display at a dealer, as these will have an internal shipping rod still in place. Make sure machine is level and on a solid floor, and try to use a bit smaller loads.

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If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component.
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G.E. washing machine will not drain completely

Hi,
It won't drain
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It spins, but doesn't pump 
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It spins, but doesn't pump
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To remove the sock from the outer tub port, open the washer's main access panel and remove the large-diameter rubber hose that connects the pump to the bottom of the outer tub. Then, using needle-nose pliers, try to grab and remove the clothing through the port. 

Sometimes you can't remove the stuck clothing from below. Then you have to remove the agitator, top of the outer drum shield, and inner clothes tub. This isn't easy to do--and you may need special tools--so you might be happier getting a qualified appliance repair technician to do the job.

If the drain line isn't plugged, the problem may be with your pump. Even if the pump appears to be turning, the internal impeller may be broken. If so, you need to replace the pump.


It doesn't spin or pump
If your washer doesn't spin or pump water out but the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley. If so, you need to replace the pump. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. 


It pumps, but the water returns
If the water that pumps out of the machine goes back into the machine after the spin cycle, your washer may be siphoning the water from a laundry tub that has a slow drain, back into the washer. The usual remedy for this is to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is something stuck in the drain?) Also, check for these problems:

If the drain hose reaches more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub, cut off the excess. 


If your drain hose is lower than the washer's cabinet, install an air gap/siphon break assembly.

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Motor coupler To test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning:

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  • If it isn't spinning--and your machine was produced by Whirlpool®--you may have a broken coupler. Many Whirlpool-made washers use a small, relatively inexpensive device called a motor coupling. This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely.


Spin cycle If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn or loose belt (Maytag®), a worn clutch (GE®/Hotpoint®), or a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component.

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Siphoning If the water that pumps from the machine goes right back into the machine after the spin cycle, it may be because your washer is siphoning the water from a laundry tub with a slow drain, back into the washer. Try to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is there something stuck in the drain?) Also, be sure the drain hose doesn't reach more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub. If it does, cut off the excess.

Water-inlet valve Water-inlet valves eventually fail. One problem that may develop with a water-inlet valve is that it can no longer completely shut off when the electricity is turned off to it. Then, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub--you may notice that your washer has water in it when you haven't used it for a few days. To fix this, replace the valve.

The cycle doesn't advance When the cycle doesn't advance, it's probably the timer or a cold-water supply problem:

  • It's the timer, if your washing machine fills with water and begins agitating, but the timer never advances--or if the washer is in a spin cycle and the timer won't advance. Then you need to replace the timer.


  • It may be a cold-water supply problem, if the washing machine fills with water, agitates, drains, and spins, but then doesn't fill with rinse water. See There's no cold water.

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My washer won't spin at the end of the cycle leaving me cloth with soaking waters...

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