Top 20 Yamaha RX-V661 Receiver Questions & Answers

There is either a shorted part in the power supply section or a shorted part (say a transistor if it uses them) in the main amp section. This will be located on the big heat sink. Power supply culprits are transformer, any semiconductor device, such as power regulator, rectifier etc.

Most of the time a shutdown is a protection circuit caused by a shorted speaker. Unplug speakers and see if it will turn back on, then hook up one at a time and power up to find if one has a short.

What is the source of your sound? By default, receiver will use only those channels that are used in the input signal - if you play CD in stereto, it will use only 2 front speakers. If you play DVD with 5.1 audio, it will use all 5 speakers (+ subwoofer if you have one). However you can use one of the bulitin "sound field program" modes to mix the 2 channel stereo music to all speakers. On front panel, press "PROGRAM < >" buttons to select the one you like. Or on remote control, repeately press MOVIE, MUSIC or STEREO buttons. You can check your manual for description of each sound field program.

no but you can change the settings from the front panel of the unit.

Have you gone into the speaker configuration menu and turned on zone 2?

try holding the 'straight' and 'audio select' buttons and press power. What does it say on the front panel? Should say some kind of protect: I, DC, PS. This will help narrow down where your problem is.

If on the front display it is either missing a voltage source (connection or bad part) or the display itself is bad.

http://www.comcast.com/corporate/customers/customer_support/remotes.html

Generally speaking, an amp protects itself from heat, shorts and overloads by refusing to turn on or stay on.

Overloads can be from excessive periods of high output and shorts would be wiring issues or a speaker blowing up.

You should be able to feel if it's hot. WHY is it overheating? Make sure it has sufficient ventilation on all sides and that vent holes are not blocked by dust balls. Ensure the fan (if equipped) is running as designed (some only operate on demand). Clean dust and debris from it.

If the amp comes back on after cooling, you're lucky. They only have so many self-protection cycles in their lives so continuously resetting or cycling their power without addressing the cause can do more harm than good.

If it protects immediately on a cool power up you should disconnect the speaker connections and try it 'naked'. If it comes up then diagnose which lead(s) are shorted. If it does not come up the problem is internal and should be left to an experienced hands-on tech.

Check for loose speaker connections as a root cause for intermittent shutdown.

The connections themselves are fairly simple but it pays to understand what happens in the loop.

In general, any Line-Level external processor (EQ, dynamic range expander, etc) will go into a Tape Monitor loop on a receiver. A Tape Monitor, when engaged, sends the stereo analog signal Out to the Processor, massages it and returns it to the receiver via the Tape Monitor IN connectors to be passed on to the receiver's internal processes (volume, tone, whatever).

Old school analog stereo-only receivers consistently work this way. Newer digital and audio/video receivers introduce a couple of problems: 1) digital sound processing to simulate a variety of soundfields; 2) multiple output channels, either discrete or digitally-generated.

The latter requires that whatever signal is being processed experiences a maximum of one analog-digital-analog conversion.

EVERYTHING analog coming into the modern digital receiver is automatically converted to a digital signal for internal processing unless you choose a STEREO-only or STEREO-Direct setting. Consequently, no further external analog-digital conversions would be allowed if, say, a Tape Monitor circuit was activated, and a possible feedback loop could otherwise be created in a digital-sourced selection (output to its own input), so the unit is wired to treat the Tape Monitor as the first analog step in the process and defeats any pure digital sources.

In a multichannel unit, what would happen to the other channels if you sent ONLY the Front Left & Right out for processing? They would NOT be processed. That logical problem also plays into the decision to defeat digital sources if the Tape Monitor is activated. I don't totally agree with the engineers but that's the way it is. Nature of the digital beast.

Okay, back to the hook-up: Receiver MD/CDR Out to the SS2 EQ Preamp- or Amp-In; Receiver MD/CDR In from the SS2 EQ Preamp- or Amp-Out.

So, to sum up, you can only use the EQ for analog stereo sources. If you actually want to use an analog recording deck you could place it within the typical Equalizer's own Tape Monitor loop(s). Many have two to facilitate equalized dubbing between decks.

[Or you could obtain a dbx Program Route Selector (check eBay, I highly recommend the 400x, of which I have two) and it would, while only using one receiver Tape Loop, allow for three discrete attachment paths for processors and three for tape decks with the added flexibility of front-panel selection of any and all, with the processors being before, after or between the source or tape decks. Plus it has a dedicated facility for an inline dbx Noise Reduction Processor that can also be juggled around via pushbuttons. Pretty neat.]

Try adjusting the sample rate of the receiver.

Hello Susan hi, you have a situation where the problem is the TV, OR the cable signal, to isolate, try using another TV, if the other TV produces the same result, meaning flicker are present, then you have the cable company to blame. If the flicker disappears on the other TV, then you have the part problematic. This will solve half the problem. finding the problem.

Hello Sramub hi, there are shorted parts inside your Yamaha, the shorted part is causing the unit not to power on. This feature of not powering on is the powers supply ability to prevent the unit for further damage. Visit your local Yamaha store, for service.

I have an extra Yamaha remote (model number RAV311), barely used, that has all the buttons the stock remote has, just is thinner. It also should be programmable. If you're interested, email me through my website http://imaginerc.com/

Sorry but you have to get your amplifier at a technician. The buzz from the speakers means internal electronic damage at the amplifier. TAKE CARE THAT in case of keeping the speakers on the buzz noise for some seconds may destroy the speakers.

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Page 102 under troubleshooting: it thinks you have Surround Back speakers but NO Surround speakers. This would be an invalid configuration. Refers to page 13 for the remedy.

If a fuse was blown, it likely would have no power. However if the power board has overheated, the capacitors may have swelled up and burnt out and will only allow it to power on for a few seconds, then shut down. The capacitors can look swelled up or burnt or have burn marks on the power circuit board. You can test them with a continuity meter. Each component has a printed number of it's voltage and ohm resistance so you can test them.

I'm assuming you mean when you try to turn up the vol on zone 2 it says "zone 2 vol fix" and you want it to be "variable" giving you the control from the remote. Open the GUI menu (Receivers main settings menu) go to (options) select external zone or zone2 then select (Variable) If you have your receiver passing video to your TV it's alot easier to navigate the menu. If you still have problems, post a reply on this thread with your product list including make and model #'s and I can walk you thru the whole process. Hope this helps

The Troubleshooting section of the manual starts with some suggestions. Check your speaker imoedance settings and make sure you're not presenting too LOW an impedance to the amplifiers.

The manual says the Dolby Pro Logic IIX mode would not be available if "SB L/R SP" is set to "NONE", which it should be if you're set up for 5.1 instead of 7.1. It's not clear what happens if you have the Surround Back speakers defined but not connected. Probably no harm but the receiver is likely trying to channel some information to non-existent speakers.

Since there's a parametric equalizer built in I'd check to make sure it's not set for bizarre boost in the bass.

The more bells and buzzers they provide for adjustment, the more opportunities for MALadjustment.

Just a wild guess. Are you over-taxing the wall outlets or power source feeding everything; or do you have excessive draw on the receiver's convenience outlets? 100 watts maximum is allowed between them.

Either you have a bad relay, or the power converter is bad. You can test relays with an ohmmeter and the power inverter/converter with a voltmeter.