Yamaha RX-V661 Receiver - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

There is either a shorted part in the power supply section or a shorted part (say a transistor if it uses them) in the main amp section. This will be located on the big heat sink. Power supply culprits are transformer, any semiconductor device, such as power regulator, rectifier etc.

Most of the time a shutdown is a protection circuit caused by a shorted speaker. Unplug speakers and see if it will turn back on, then hook up one at a time and power up to find if one has a short.

What is the source of your sound? By default, receiver will use only those channels that are used in the input signal - if you play CD in stereto, it will use only 2 front speakers. If you play DVD with 5.1 audio, it will use all 5 speakers (+ subwoofer if you have one). However you can use one of the bulitin "sound field program" modes to mix the 2 channel stereo music to all speakers. On front panel, press "PROGRAM < >" buttons to select the one you like. Or on remote control, repeately press MOVIE, MUSIC or STEREO buttons. You can check your manual for description of each sound field program.

no but you can change the settings from the front panel of the unit.

Have you gone into the speaker configuration menu and turned on zone 2?

try holding the 'straight' and 'audio select' buttons and press power. What does it say on the front panel? Should say some kind of protect: I, DC, PS. This will help narrow down where your problem is.

After using the method of last resort (RTFM) I discovered that Yamaha 7.1 amps assign an order of priority to the speakers. The surround speakers have higher priority than the surround-back speakers. I had connected the rear speakers (in a 5.1 configuration) to the surround-back speaker terminals and since nothing was connected to the surround terminals the E-6 error happed on auto-setup.

I eventually fixed this by connecting the rear speakers to the Surround L/R terminals and then, via the manual setup menu, set rear surround = NONE. This causes the amp to route the rear-surround signals to the Surround L/R terminals. The auto-configure then completed successfully.

but does it sound normal in all other sources?

If on the front display it is either missing a voltage source (connection or bad part) or the display itself is bad.

There's a common problem with the Rx-V661 where a capacitor blows and then the display on the unit no longer works. It will start to display when you first turn it on, but fade out right away. This is because of a blown capacitor and a known issue for the Rx-V661.

Yamaha RX-V661 LCD / Front panel. Symptom: when you first turn iton, you can see a VERY little light but after 5 sec, you cannot see it anymoreor for most of us, we started using a flash light. Here is the summary of the solution and I know that it worksbecause I fixed it today 3/16/2011, 30 minutes ago. As many pointed out that there is a"light" 12v - 14v in the back but there is NONE. How do I know? I listened and searched andthere are NONE. The whole LCD in the front is air seal like a light bulb so itis a light bulb already. Also, you mightsee a little burn/gray smoke on the left hand side, don't worry about itbecause if the light comes on, it stills work but not enough power. If the LCDis broken, please don't try by the part and replace it because by the time youread this, the parts and labor cost as much as buying a new one (on eBay andnot Best Buy). Problem: in the middle of the unit near the back near the "surroundsound back", there are 3 capacitor rated at (2 units) 35v 220uf 85'C and(1 unit) 50v 220uf 85'C. What Yamaha did wrong, base on my guess is that theyput the 85'C too close to the heat sink. The heat causes the capacitor to slowly blown that is why you still getyour power to the LCD but not enough. Solution: remove the top, unscrew EVERYTHING in the back and there are about 20 ~ good luck. Forthose that don't have good memory, please take a picture. There are many plugs insidethat you need to unplug before you can remove 1st layer (audio/ video input)2nd player (HDMI and Optical input), the last layer you will see 3 capacitors thatare kind of "blown" up (google "bad capacitors" pictures orvideo). Remove them then replace them, which you can Google this on tube andthey should teach you how. It was very easy for me but then again, please don'ttry to do it if you cannot even change your car oil or build a computer becauseI believe that is the difficulty level. solder iron: $9-$20 get it on eBay or radioshack(2 units) 35v 220uf 105'C and (1unit) 50v 220uf 105'C or what I got was (3 units) 50v 220uf 105'C

I keep the 220uf the same to besafe but increase the voltage and heat to increase the life of the capacitors.

Good luck everyone,

JimmySCW

http://www.comcast.com/corporate/customers/customer_support/remotes.html

Generally speaking, an amp protects itself from heat, shorts and overloads by refusing to turn on or stay on.

Overloads can be from excessive periods of high output and shorts would be wiring issues or a speaker blowing up.

You should be able to feel if it's hot. WHY is it overheating? Make sure it has sufficient ventilation on all sides and that vent holes are not blocked by dust balls. Ensure the fan (if equipped) is running as designed (some only operate on demand). Clean dust and debris from it.

If the amp comes back on after cooling, you're lucky. They only have so many self-protection cycles in their lives so continuously resetting or cycling their power without addressing the cause can do more harm than good.

If it protects immediately on a cool power up you should disconnect the speaker connections and try it 'naked'. If it comes up then diagnose which lead(s) are shorted. If it does not come up the problem is internal and should be left to an experienced hands-on tech.

Check for loose speaker connections as a root cause for intermittent shutdown.

The connections themselves are fairly simple but it pays to understand what happens in the loop.

In general, any Line-Level external processor (EQ, dynamic range expander, etc) will go into a Tape Monitor loop on a receiver. A Tape Monitor, when engaged, sends the stereo analog signal Out to the Processor, massages it and returns it to the receiver via the Tape Monitor IN connectors to be passed on to the receiver's internal processes (volume, tone, whatever).

Old school analog stereo-only receivers consistently work this way. Newer digital and audio/video receivers introduce a couple of problems: 1) digital sound processing to simulate a variety of soundfields; 2) multiple output channels, either discrete or digitally-generated.

The latter requires that whatever signal is being processed experiences a maximum of one analog-digital-analog conversion.

EVERYTHING analog coming into the modern digital receiver is automatically converted to a digital signal for internal processing unless you choose a STEREO-only or STEREO-Direct setting. Consequently, no further external analog-digital conversions would be allowed if, say, a Tape Monitor circuit was activated, and a possible feedback loop could otherwise be created in a digital-sourced selection (output to its own input), so the unit is wired to treat the Tape Monitor as the first analog step in the process and defeats any pure digital sources.

In a multichannel unit, what would happen to the other channels if you sent ONLY the Front Left & Right out for processing? They would NOT be processed. That logical problem also plays into the decision to defeat digital sources if the Tape Monitor is activated. I don't totally agree with the engineers but that's the way it is. Nature of the digital beast.

Okay, back to the hook-up: Receiver MD/CDR Out to the SS2 EQ Preamp- or Amp-In; Receiver MD/CDR In from the SS2 EQ Preamp- or Amp-Out.

So, to sum up, you can only use the EQ for analog stereo sources. If you actually want to use an analog recording deck you could place it within the typical Equalizer's own Tape Monitor loop(s). Many have two to facilitate equalized dubbing between decks.

[Or you could obtain a dbx Program Route Selector (check eBay, I highly recommend the 400x, of which I have two) and it would, while only using one receiver Tape Loop, allow for three discrete attachment paths for processors and three for tape decks with the added flexibility of front-panel selection of any and all, with the processors being before, after or between the source or tape decks. Plus it has a dedicated facility for an inline dbx Noise Reduction Processor that can also be juggled around via pushbuttons. Pretty neat.]

RAV326 or WJ19440US

I have an extra Yamaha remote (model number RAV311), barely used, that has all the buttons the stock remote has, just is thinner. It also should be programmable. If you're interested, email me through my website http://imaginerc.com/

Hello Sramub hi, there are shorted parts inside your Yamaha, the shorted part is causing the unit not to power on. This feature of not powering on is the powers supply ability to prevent the unit for further damage. Visit your local Yamaha store, for service.

Hello Susan hi, you have a situation where the problem is the TV, OR the cable signal, to isolate, try using another TV, if the other TV produces the same result, meaning flicker are present, then you have the cable company to blame. If the flicker disappears on the other TV, then you have the part problematic. This will solve half the problem. finding the problem.

Try adjusting the sample rate of the receiver.

Sorry but you have to get your amplifier at a technician. The buzz from the speakers means internal electronic damage at the amplifier. TAKE CARE THAT in case of keeping the speakers on the buzz noise for some seconds may destroy the speakers.

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