20 Most Recent Whirlpool WFW9400S Questions & Answers

This is a Long Drain Issue. Likely that something is stuck in the pump trap. Take off the mottom tree screws under the drum panel. This will remove the drum panel on the front. From under neither you can see the drain pipe trap. Unscrew the trap cap in the from. Clean out all debrieF and re-install. This should do it.

It is possible that the machine does not start off the cycle because there are errors or feedback from the inputs. For the program to start up the main program controller must initiate the INLET/MOTOR/DRAIN pump/ valve to open up and allow each function to be driven from the flow into the drum as also the drain valve to open to exit the water at the point of the program cycle. If this does not happen then the voltage at the valve/motor/pump must be checked or the fault relates to no voltage from the controller. This means the controller is a suspect. If this is a timer type then the controller is not working.

If the water flows then the flow should be good, if not the inlet valve is bad or there is dirt in the filter. Also check the flow at the inlet of the water line. Once the water comes into the system the WATER LEVEL SENSOR - normally a pressure switch- must activate at the preset/chosen level to give the signal to the program controller to switch on the motor. What is most important for the motor to start functioning is that the door switch must be ON when the door is shut or this will be an error for starting the motor for rinse and wash.

Finally after the wash the drain valve will be activated, the water is allowed to come in to rinse and then finally the dry spin with the drain valve/pump activated so as to drain off all the water from the clothes during the spin.

Make sure that a fault in any of the cycle will relate to the specified action, so check the command from the program module and then the executing device be it the valve or motor or pump.

Please check the link below:

http://www.repairclinic.com/Washing-Machine-Troubleshooting?red=Washing-Machine-Repair-Help

Since the user interface (UI) board has been replaced but the symptoms are unchanged, the problem is either with the UI wire harness, the CCU (#14 on the parts diagram), or any other part that can interfere with the proper operation of the UI. The tech person checked the CCU and finds it okay so the problem now is either with the wire harness or the "other" part granting he is certain. But the wire harness issue is rare and not likely the problem because all the UI needs to turn on is power from the CCU which it gets as indicated by turning of the door lock light. These leaves us the "other" part which is malfunctioning and interfering with the UI.

The problem now is how to find that "other" part. One simple way is disconnecting all wire harnesses from the CCU leaving only the UI and the Line Filter.


This will check if other component malfunction particularly the motor control unit (MCU) results in the UI not to work. It has been found that a malfunctioning MCU can cause the CCU and UI to malfunction. If it works, then one of the disconnected components is malfunctioning resulting the UI malfunction. Reconnect the components one at a time and you should be able to determine which of them is causing the UI to go haywire. You may only disconnect the MCU from the CCU as it is the part can usually cause such machine behavior.

Please accept the solution should you find it helpful and/or informative. Accepting the solution will not stop you from posting comments or additional information. You can still communicate with the expert should you need further advice regarding the issue stated herein.

Hello, Thank You for using FixYa. I will be helping you today.

1. Unlup the unit
2. Remove 3 screws on the rear top panel and remove the top
3. Remove the dispenser
4. Remove the two screws that are where the dispenser was
5. Now use a putty knife along the top edge of the control to pop it off the clips
6. There are side clips that you pop it off by pulling the control forward it is a pain.
7. Unplug the cables
8. Now you can replace the interface there are screws holding it on that you remove.

Thank You and please rate my answer if it was helpful..

A loud rumble noise during the spin cycle is a good indication that the bearings have failed. The bearings are located in the rear outer tub. See link http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=4426951 There are actually two bearings an inner and an outer bearing plus a seal. Water must have leaked past the seal causing the inner bearings to corrode. Once they start to rust, it just gets louder and louder. You are correct that Whirlpool does not sell the bearings and seal separately, but you must buy a new rear outer tub currently the price is over $400.

I had it happen to a different brand of front load washer and was faced to either, replace the rear outer tub, junk it or figure out how to replace the seal and bearing. I opted for the last and did some research on finding replacement bearings and seals. I had to tear the washer apart to get the bearings, then pound out the old ones to replace with new ones. It been working find for the last 2.5 year so far.

I found a website that might help you locate bearings and seals for your machine. http://www.hometask.com/washerrepair.aspx The site has a video on how to tear down your machine and shows you how to remove and replace the bearings. He might have the ones that you need on his site. Hope this helps you.

Check wire harness connections to the Motor control unit,
the motor, and the Central Control Unit


Video:


I have a service manual and more HERE

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Hi.

F11 is communication error between CCU (main control unit) and MCU (motor control unit - additional control module connected to motor and to CCU, located in a sealed box inside the washer).

This usually means that either CCU or MCU is defective. In some case the connectors or the wiring harness connecting the two modules is the problem.

The tech sheet says:

F11:Serial Communication Error
Communication between the Central Control Unit (CCU) and the Motor Control Unit (MCU) cannot be sent correctly.
Solution:
* Check Wire Harness connectors to the MCU, the motor, and Central Control Unit (CCU)
* Check the Drive system for any worn or failed components
* Check MCU
* Check CCU
* Check Motor
* Check Wire Harness

The wiring harness is tested using a multimeter to ensure that there is continuity between the MCU and CCU connectors. If a single wire is good it will read zero Ohms (closed) from contact to contact.
Motor is tested reading Ohms, it must be read about 6 Ohms on three different pairs of contacts.
Drive system in motor is checked observing if any of the parts are broken.
MCU and CCU are tested reading volts during operation and testing at component level. The testing must be done by a tech. Check CCU to see if there is any sign of failure (eg burnt spots).

Most of the time the problem is CCU. Trick to repair it include testing and eventually reheating the solder joint of the two on-board relays, cleaning connector contacts with circuit cleaner solution. This in case that the problem is CCU.

Disconnect the unit from power for five minutes as first test. This will reset CCU.

The diagnostic is different depending on the model. The diagnostic is illustrated in the machine tech sheet, which is tucked inside the control panel assembly. Open control assembly and check. By the way, if you have f11 the diagnostic won't help. Machine must be tested.

Regards.

Ginko.

Heartbeat failure. No com between CCU and touchpad. Check for corrosion in the connection you keep soap and stuff on top the washer? The tech sheet is behind the service panel. It contains all error codes and suggested remedy's for techs. The handy Hippy will now show yall how to access the service panel.

Handy Hippy's guide to HE bliss If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

BAD PRESSURE SWITCH

The error "F20" means : Water Inlet Problem - no water or insufficient
water supply.
Several possibilities.
Have a look at this forum - several tests must be perform to clearly identify where does problem comes from :.
http://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/whirlpool-kitchenaid/10201-fixed-whirlpool-duet-sport-f-20-error-code.html

Good luck

Hi,

F71 points at a connection error between button pad and control board.

Please read the indications in this article: F70 and F71 are two logic board error codes...

Regards.

The F20 error is a no water detected entering machine error and yes it is related to the hot water not being hooked up.

Newer washers sense and control the incoming water temperature. If you select cold wash and cold rinse you may think that it will not ask for hot water so you don't need it hooked up but you can't do that on this washer.

Even on a cold wash the temperature sensor will read the temperature of the incoming water. If your cold water is 60 degrees then the control will sense this and it may cycle the hot water on to bring the temperature up to 70 degrees.

Hi.

F11 is communication error between the main logic module (user interface and CCU), and the motor control unit and central control (MCU is motor control unit, located in a sealed module inside the washer , andd CCU that is main control module).
Repair is difficult, as wiring and voltages from control modules must be tested.

To reset the error press Pause/Cancel twice, then disconnect and connect back power (trip circuit breaker or disconnect the power cord).

If that does not help and errors come back, then the best thing to do is calling the service number listed on the user manual.

If the error keeps coming back, then either MCU or main control module must be replaced. Both parts are expensive and difficult to test. I suggest as first thing calling Whirlpool at the number on manual, verifying parts availibility and repair cost.

Here all parts and diagrams for this model.

Regards.

Ginko.