20 Most Recent Kenwood KAC-9152D Car Audio Amplifier - Page 5 Questions & Answers

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Either can either do it yourself like the guy above or take it to your local car audio dealer :)

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You do not have enough power coming from our car battery, your alt. may be going out. Look into a 5 farad power cap to store more power...

Hello howdoiuhhhh,

There's a serious voltage drop somewhere in the wiring. If the voltage went up when you installed a 2nd battery closer to your amp, I would suspect that the power and/or the ground is either not getting a good solid connection or is too small a gauge for it's length, or both. I'd try to find the problem before installing additional batteries or a heavy-duty alternator.

The only time a second battery is useful is if the audio system is to be used with the car off. And then it should be installed with an isolator to keep it from the rest of your car's electrical system.

After you have made sure that your wiring supports the amp and only if your total audio system power is 1200 watts RMS or more, you may need to:
1. Upgrade to a high output alternator
2. Upgrade to a heavy duty deep-cycle battery
3. Upgrade the "Big 3" - that is to replace (or add to) the power wire between the battery and alternator, the ground from the battery to the chassis and the ground strap from the
engine/transmission to the chassis with at least 2 AWG wire and preferbly 1/0.

Hope this helps.

try installing a power condenser most audio stores sell them

http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp?Q=3&I=41
This should do it. good luck.

WHAT IS HAPPENING IS UR SYSTEM IS PULLING TO MUCH POWER FROM UR BATTERY, I WOULD RECCOMEND GETTING A CAPACITOR.

Just because the box is built for those subs doesn't mean it works well in your car. it's all about airspace if its in a sedan trunk try facing it towards the back of the car it will give it something to bounce off. If the box has one tiny pin hole it can make a BIG difference make sure it is sealed well. Make sure your positives and negatives are going to the right places on the speaker wire that can cause weak sounding subs. did you bridge the amp because that could be an issue also.

when your amp cuts out,is it when your stereo is produceing a long low note.if it is then the problem lies within the power distribution from the battery.as your sub pulles a long low note it draws a lot of power and sometimes the battery cant supply the power fast enough and the amp cuts out. useing a power cap is one way to solve the problem,but the best option for you to use becouse your running high powered amps is to have a sepparate battery for your audio using a split charging system.when your car battery is fully charged a relay swiches the power so that it charges the audio battery,so your auio system will have constant power without putting stress on your car battery. you can get thes from all good audio shops. hope this helps you.

looks like you need to check the SOURCE of where the signal is coming it could be that your CD car stereo SUB opt. is turn off , check the menu of SOURCE and switch to SUB on , hope this helpful

I believe you have a wire touching a ground somewhere in your car stereo circuit. Most likely there is a speaker wire in your dash that is the cause. Here is a reference: http://www.bcae1.com/brighead.htm
Also make sure the RCA's are taped up in your dash, they will create an entrance to feedback from the amp, which will inturn make your subs go crazy. Also, unplug each channel RCA from your amp and see if it stops, you may have a break in your RCA's causing a ground.

Usually, protection mode is caused by one of these conditions:

• Shorted speaker outputs.
• Speaker output shorted to ground.
• There is an internal issue, causing DC voltage to be present on the speaker outputs.
• Amp overheats.
• Ground connection is insufficient for amp or HU.

I'm not sure of the history or symptoms of your amp, but those are the reasons why the amp could go into protection mode.

A: make sure that speakers size and watts.B: Type of speakers is used for base. C: Make sure the current (Amps)of the battery and your amplifier. D: Check audio from source and decrease the level of base. Thanks.

Is the power wire going to the battery? Is the ground wire short (3-4 ft) and connected securely to a GOOD metal groun source? Are you using an AGU fuse holder at the battery? Reason I ask these questions is you migh have a weak connection somewhere or a bad fuse that looks like a good fuse. When the amp is turned on, it requires more amperage that at a standby mode. Hit me back.

Larry T
Winona Lake, IN
http://www.cybersoundsaudio.com/cybersounds/vehiclepics.html

75% of the time all you need to do is reground the ground wire. If you don't have a sturdy ground it can't complete the circuit. Make sure to grind off the paint so you're grounding to bare metal. Also, make sure your ground wire is the same gauge as the power wire or larger than. That should do it.

Dang! That's a class D anp! How did you fry it? If you "replaced" the internal ground wire and now it just blows fuses, I would say that the amp is direct shorted at the power supply if the fusesblow instantly when you put the fuses in.

Larry T
Winona Lake, IN
http://www.cybersoundsaudio.com/cybersounds/vehiclepics.html

Either the amp is ad or the sub got shorted? You can check itby disconnecting the Sub and seeing if the amp comes on blue then. If yes, then the sub is shorted. If no, then the amp is shorted. Also chck the voltage AT THE AMP. Make sure that it is above 12 Volts.

Larry T
Winona Lake, IN
http://www.cybersoundsaudio.com/cybersounds/vehiclepics.html

The reason it used to cut-off at 60% volume as you said before,
Is probably due to the "protection circuit mode" being tripped.

You can try resetting it by turning off your CD player ,removing the Batt( + ) and Gnd ( - ) terminals from the amp for a short period. Reconnect them Allow the amp to receive power but not switch on (keep cd player/remote power source off)

If you dont know how to wire the CD player to control the amps power status , the easiest way is to connect the 'power antenna' or similar low voltage throughput wire from the head-unit to the amp's Remote terminal.

My old amp did the same thing ,and would need to be powered off/on before resuming sound output, sometimes I had lots of trouble with the protect mode staying on , even with little or no sound output from headunit.

your amps rem wire is hooked to the power antenna wire on your head unit and so when you turn off the radio you would nolonger need an antenna so it powers down and would lower the antenna.Depending on the head unit you should have one output for the power antenna and one for the amp rem......If your head unit doesn't have the rem output you can wire it to the switched wire that powers your head unit but keep in mind the amp will stay on while you have the key in acc or run position even if your head unit is off.
hope this helps!