20 Most Recent Nor-Lake KLB77810C Commercial Freezer - Page 6 Questions & Answers


"The Igloo 100 series portable icemakers that are sold all over for about $100 have several minor issues. For ADD WATER light, there are 2 main ones. The water SENSOR is located at the top right of the unit. Remove the BACK cover with 6 screws on the bottom. Remove the TOP assy with 4 screws from inside the case. When the TOP is off, facing the unit from front, you see the small silver wire at the back right. Clean it AND the screw visible thru the hole in the plastic at the end of the sensor wire. The screw is the GROUND side of the sensor. This fixes many of the issues. But the SENSOR senses water FLOW, not water LEVEL. If the PUMP is not moving water, the sensor assumes you are OUT of water and turns on the ADD WATER light. The pump apparently burns out easily. Remove the PUMP wire connector from the CONTROL BOARD and check for continuity in the motor. Be sure your multimeter leads actually touch the connectors. The connection end is too small for most meters, so probe from the backside of the connector. If motor is good, check for 12vdc at the board side of the pump connector. Plug in, turn on. Should be 12vdc within 45 seconds. See, the water pump comes on first. When water is moving over the sensor, then the board will turn on the compressor and start freezing. "

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Freezers | Answered on Aug 27, 2018


In general, when the conditioned space is close to the desired temp, usually about +10 degrees, is where I would start checking as most freezers are about 0 to -10 degrees. I would look for a super heat 6-8 degrees and nothing less than 4 just before unit shuts off. This is usually the most common numbers used for most all freezers. Good luck!

Freezers | Answered on Aug 13, 2018


Need more info.
Generally, Hoshi freezers have 2 sensors and a limit in the evap compartment. One sensor is for conditioned space temp, one is for evap temp, and limit if for the heater.
Basically, while in defrost, the controller monitors the evap temp, and when it reaches approx. 70 degrees, the defrost should terminate. The limit kills power to the heater should it get too hot prior to defrost termination. I would first check to see if heater is getting power, if not, check the limit as they go bad frequently. If it is getting power but the defrost termination is happening too early, I would replace the probes first as it is the cheaper route and even if the controller is bad, I would not replace it without doing the probes too. The safety in the controller is usually set for if the unit does not terminate defrost on temp, it will terminate on time, usually 1 hour set at factory specs. Let me know if you need any further help.

Freezers | Answered on Aug 13, 2018


try manufacturer or online search using make and model

Freezers | Answered on Aug 08, 2018

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