20 Most Recent GE Profile JTP18 Electric Single Oven - Page 8 Questions & Answers

Hi


Thanks for using FixYa. F1 error means circuit board failure so unfortunately to resolve this you have to get the control board replaced. Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or post a comment for further assistance.


Thanks
Rylee

THERE IS A PROBLE WITH THE ERC (CLOCK) NOT TO SURE IF I WOULD USE IT EITHER. THE PART IS EASY TO CHANGE JUST TURN POWER OFF AT THE BREAKER FIRST. YOU CAN FIND THIS PART HERE.
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirec

Hi,

Try to Reset the Oven by Turning the Oven's Circuit Breaker. If Problem Persists, you need to Replace the Latch Assembly.

Let me know,if needed further assistance.

Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

Hi,
Here is a tip that will help you...

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4502309-oven_repair_oven_will_not_work_all

heatman101

The element is most likely going out.

Hi,
Here is a tip that I wrote that will expalin what has happened there...


http://www.fixya.com/support/r4404788-electric_oven_problem_oven_will_not_shut

heatman101

This indicates a stuck key or main control failure. You should call for service. This is a warranty issue but this is what your tech should be doing. This is a simple test and a quick repair, he should have the parts with him
Determine if problem is with the Key Panel or Control by:
Pushing CLEAR/OFF pad.
Disconnecting Ribbon Cable from control and waiting at least 32 seconds to see if Code reoccurs
If code recurs, problem is in the control. Replace control.
If code does not reoccur, problem is with the Key Panel.
www.appliancehelponline.com

Once you have the hinges open to the first stop keep wiggling it back and forth...it will drop down.

This model has issues with the power input controller board, usually caused by surge following a power failure... board is $285 from GE plus $90 or so to install after paying a $100 service call. Replacment part is special ordered and generally takes a week or so.... have 2 of these ovens... ask me how I know.... LOL

YOU CANT CALIBRATE THE STATS YOU WILL NEED TO REPLACE IT THEY DO A UNIVERSAL 2 TAG 400 DEG STAT AT APROX £18.00

If you have tried all of the above.... BEFORE you go to the acid attemp that I do not think is a good idea.... Go to the local auto parts store and buy some engine degreser. Then give that a try. It is amazing how when you encounter a mega mess stove / oven that it will do the job most of the time. You will just have to use soap and water to do the final cleaning.

Something is probobly wrong with the thermostat, it gets hot to warm up, but should lessen as it reaches your desired temp. If the thermostat is bad it will just keep going.

Go to an auto parts store and buy some thermal grease. LIGHTLY coat the part if the grill that touches the sides of the oven.

The temperature is within manufactures specifications.
By that I mean that the majority of manufactures allow a tolerance of + or - 10 % of the set temperature.
So, in your case, 10% of 350 degrees is 35 degrees, thereby showing that the actual temperature you are obtaining is well within the 10% allowance.
I hope this helps you .

Hi There
I have found this for you to read and hope this will help you. Let me know how it goes.

F2 Oven temp exceeds 590 w/ unlocked door High resistance or interference in oven temperature sensor. Replace oven temperature sensorThank you for writing to fix ya.
Best Regards Richard

HI. This error code will occur when the control board senses an oven temperature above 915F-935F

Once this type of temperatures occur, this will generally weld the relay contacts on the main board. This will damage the board, and it will require you to have it replaced, asap. If these temperatures never reached the sated thresholds, i would advise to Look for a high resistance connection or any other cause of high resistance in the oven temperature sensor circuit. Check sensor, sensor harness and sensor harness connection at sensor and oven control. Replace the sensor if found to be defective. Check door lock switches for damage, as well.

In most cases, this will be a failed control board. To confirm, simply preform a resistance test on the sensor. The normal ohm readings should be 1100 ohms at room temperature. if the sensor registers the correct ohms at room temperature, the control will be the culprit.


The sensor is, generally, located inside the oven, mounted on the back wall, on the top right, or left corner. There will be two screws holding the housing on the back of the oven wall. Once the screws are removed, the sensor will need to be extracted from the back side of the unit.

Hi.

There is only a probe sensor, located inside the oven cavity. This sensor controls both oven baking and broiling functions. If the problem is only when baking, then it is not the temperature probe.

The problem is usually the baking element. The element can be tested removing it from the cavity and reading impedance on the element's contact with the aid of a multimeter.
Multimeter must be set to read Ohms (impedance) on Rx1. If impedance is infinite (circuit open), then the element must be replaced.

In case the element is good, then the problem will be either the Electronic Control (what you called mother board, often called ERC), or a broken wiring.

Parts and diagrams available on Sears or Partselect website.

Here element from Partselect: BAKE ELEMENT

Here all parts and diagrams: http://www.partselect.com/MultiModels.aspx?ModelNum=jtp18&searchTerm=&RefineSearch=0

You can use a wire brush, or razor blade, or use a torch and burn the rest off. Oven cleaner may help but is nasty stuff to breathe in and handle with your hands.

No other alternative but to change the control Panel. Please contact your service provider for this to do the needful