20 Most Recent GE Profile JTP18 Electric Single Oven - Page 5 Questions & Answers

I would suspect either the sensor, item 253 on this schematic http://www.appliance-parts-warehouse.com/general-electric-parts/General-Electric-Range-Stove-Oven-Hood-Parts/General-Electric-Parts-JTP20BF1BB/General-Electric-Parts-58935.cfm or the oven control, item 16 on this schematic http://www.appliance-parts-warehouse.com/general-electric-parts/General-Electric-Range-Stove-Oven-Hood-Parts/General-Electric-Parts-JTP20BF1BB/General-Electric-Parts-58936.cfm

The control lock has been activated. This feature is useful when you are cleaning the panel so that you don't accidently start the oven or the self-cleaning cycle. Try pressing Bake and Broil Hi/Lo together for 2 seconds (or a bit longer). SF should appear in the display. Then press Self Clean and Start. (When you press Self Clean the LOC message should disappear.)

Manuals for most GE appliances are available here: http://www.geappliances.com/service_and_support/literature/ . Enter the model number and click Submit. The direct link to the manual for the JTP18WWWW is: http://products.geappliances.com/MarketingObjectRetrieval/Dispatcher?RequestType=PDF&Name=981140017.PDF .

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

Hi You can download the manual from this site http://dl.owneriq.net/4/4add785a-7b6d-4dba-8820-1cb4509b8121.pdf

Hi,
If your electric oven is taking too long to heat or just not heating up right,then check out this tip that will give more detail about your problem.

Oven Problems Electric Oven is Heating Slowly or Poorly

heatman101

Look for a reset or fuse on the unit. If lightening hit, the surge could have wiped it out, as you already know. But hopefully GE put a fuse or breaker in the unit. You just have to find it, if it exists.
According to GE, a diagram is located in behind the control panel. If you can safely remove it (CIRCUIT BREAKER OFF) you may find the protection devices that GE has in place. You may also
find the fuse or breaker hiding in there too! Good luck.
NEVER ACCESS AN APPLIANCE WITHOUT FIRST TURNING OFF THE CIRCUIT BREAKER
OR UNPLUGGING THE UNIT. BE SAFE.

HI, you need to change the whole front keypad not the board. This piece is about 150-200.00.



Sean

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect
I HAVE QUESTIONS. THIS THERE 240 VOLTS AC TO OVEN. YOU MAY HAVE A BREAKER PROBLEM. FLIP THE BREAKER BACK AND FORTH 3-5 TIMES FAST TO GET IT TO RESET. IF THE LAST THING YOU DID WAS A SELF CLEAN THEN YOU MAY HAVE A SAFETY THERMOSTAT PROBLEM. IF YOU CANNOT FIND THE WHOLE MODEL NUMBER ON THIS SITE CALL 1-800-GECARES THEY WILL HELP YOU WITH PARTS

The display must be on and in manual mode for the oven to work. Is anything showing on the display at all? If not it is probably dead and requires replacement. Press a couple of the buttons just to make sure. If you don't need the display the display can be bypassed quite easily by joining the active and load wires.

Hi
Error F4 means a loose/broken wire on the oven temp sensor or the sensor is bad and should be replaced. To solve this issue start by checking the oven temp. sensor for 1100 ohms, if the rating is more then that then check the control and door switch and replace the part that is bad. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.
Daniel

This sounds like the thermal overload operated and turned the oven off. The overload is generally located in the top of the oven cavity. Remove the top cover and you should find it. Sometimes it open circuits the active supply and sometimes the neutral. Sounds like it may need replacing.

Sounds as though you control board is shot. Part number WB27T10312
It is expensive but its with a high since of probablity.
Of course before you do this ...something simple could be tried. This would be to kill power to it and let it site for 30 minutes and then turn it back on (Breaker would do this).
Replaceing the board is not that easy since it has lots and lots of wires. If doing so besure there is no power and draw a schamtic of where the wires are before disconnecting them
Thanks,
Shawn

Hi

If the lower wont heat and the upper work fine then it is the coil itself that is bad and should be replaced. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.

Daniel

Bulb required: Manufactured by Aglaia for GE, 130V 35W Halogen bulb

There is a grille above the door and clock/cooking controls that extends the width of the unit. You need to remove this to get to the light receptacle. With the power to the unit off (unplug if you have access to it), get on a chair with a Phillips head screwdriver. Look down from the top and you will see two screws about 6" in from the ends. If you don't see the screws, open the cabinet doors above the unit (mine were blocking the screw heads). Remove the screws and set aside. Pull girlle towards you at the top being careful not to break the tabs at the position where the screws you just removed are located. After the tabs are out the grille should lift up (there are three hook-tabs along the bottom). Set it aside. Over toward the right you will see a smaller vertical grille. Just to the left of this there is a void with a Phillips head screw facing you. Remove the screw from the receptacle tab. Lift up the receptacle tab on the right. When the receptacle is clear on the right, move the receptacle to the right to release it from the tabs on the left. Lift the receptacle up until it clears the housing it just came from. Pull it gently toward you, rotate it bottom-toward you, and you will see the bulb to be replaced. My bulb was lightly held in using white silicone and removed easily by pulling it in the direction it was pointing. A word of caution about Halogen bulbs: When handling new bulbs be careful not to get any grease on them and handle them with clean cotton gloves or a clean t-shirt. Grease and oils from even clean hands will cause the bulb to burn out quickly. Replace the receptacle being careful to make sure the electrical wires are not pinched by the receptacle housing. Replace the screw; replace the grille; return power to the unit. You're done!

Lamp Halogen ranging in price from $8.10 to $10.71.

hELLO THERE
tHERE IS NOT A SET PROCEDURE FOR THIS ONCE THE SELF CLEAN FEATURE HAS BEEN ACTIVATED OR ANY THING LIKE THIS WHAT NEEDS TO BE DONE IS THIS
FIRST SO YOU UNDERSTAND THIS FULLY THESE OVENS HAVE A INTERNAL MEMORY MODULE IN THE CONTROLE PANEL THAT STORES EVERY THING THAT THE OVEN HAS DONE IN IT FOR A GIVEN TIME SO NOW YOU WILL HAVE TO CLEAR THE MEMORY AND IT IS DONE LIKE THIS
FIRST UNLPUG THE OVEN AND LEAVE IT ALONE FOR 1 HOUR MIN..
NOW PLUG IN THE OVEN AND YOU WILL HEAR A AUDIABLE CLICK SOUND WITH IN 5 MIN OF PLUGGING IT IN
IF YOU HEAR IT RIGHT AWAY SIMPLY PRESS THE CANCEL BUTTON AND YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO UNOCK AS YOU NORMALLY WOULD OK
PLEASE KEEP ME POSTED ON HOW THIS IS GOING
bEST REGARDS MIKE

F0 code means that there is a thermistor control failure,Recommend you replace the electronic range control.The part number should be wb27k5172.but need full model number to confirm.

The F7 code is A=function pad button jammed or B-Bad clock.try to unstick the button or again replace the electronic control.

NEDD A SENSOR

You can buy replacement tops for your range. Check with your manufacturer for local parts distributors or service locations and they should be able to find you one. There is also online part stores that sell them like http://www.partadvantage.com/store anywhere from 150-400$

Greetings,

If you look carefully at the bake element..There may be a burnt spot or not smooth to the touch..If it has any bumps or blemishes...Its bad. If you have an ohm meter you can check the bake element for continuity...if none, its defective......in most cases its the element that goes bad...

If you do have a volt/ohm meter you can check for voltage and I've even seen the wire burn off where it connects to the burner itself...The thing to really be sure of is power going to bake..if not power, its either the board relay keeping it off or a wiring problem...ie burnt wires
Bruce Denton

Hi,

The ignitor is not working right and is going bad....
have the repair man replace the ignitor, or DIY....
Check out this tip about your problem...

Oven not Working or Oven not Heating

Oven Problems Replacing the Igniter


heatman101
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