20 Most Recent M-Audio M Audio Keystation 88es 88 Key USB Midi Controller Questions & Answers

It has a limited voice generation capability. There are L and R audio outputs on the back... Just don't expect every fancy synth voice to be in it...

Most of these use conductive rubber pills that are pressed onto circuit board traces by the keys.

Clean the board AND the pills with 99% isoprophyl alcohol and QTips.

First step is to download Midi Monitor http://www.snoize.com/MIDIMonitor/
just to make sure you're actually getting midi over USB into the computer. This is a great utility that I use all the time for troubleshooting midi data issues.

The key contact has gotten contaminated. They are a black conductive rubber pill pressed against circuit traces on a board bellow the keys. Remove that key and maybe others to get at the contacts in silicone strips. Clean ONLY with 99% isoprophyl alcohol and Q tips. Clean both the pills (two per note) and the circuit traces they touch. You have to release the spring at the back of each key to remove the key.

If the power goes off when you plug in the pedal, the pedal LIKELY has a short in it between two of the three connections at the plug.

Firat, try putting the pedal plug in BEFORE applying power.

Likely the pedal presents a pot or volume control that will have like 5 volts across it an the wiper returned on the same cable. If the wiring configuration is wrong OR if the plug goes through a period of shorting the 5 volts out during insertion that will cause a problem...

To troubleshoot, move the pedal to half way and these with an ohmmeter for shorts between ANY two of the three connections.

If the traces are lifted, then use jumpers to the points of origin of each trace. Tack the jumpers down with silicone seal or other adhesive.

Replace the connector ifthere is any chance of damage to the connector itself.

When you say no sound is emitted, do you mean from the computer speakers or from the keyboard itself? I can definitely help you just need some more info.

Thanks
Tim

I have two of these. First thing check your power adapter for output. Just because LED's are on doesn't mean there is correct voltage... There is no reset button... Cycling power serves to reset it.

ALSO check the power input connector... sometimes those get intermittent and break connection due to vibration and initial current surge when turning on.

You have to install software to connect the device to the General MIDI input. This rquires a driver for the 88ES.

You can buy new connector and replace broken one. You need skill at soldering and of course have to open the unit to access the broken connector.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cq5y98toFYc&feature=emb_rel_end https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f-iIatuSr-s&feature=emb_logo https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2gzobXzfxdQ

I just had the same issue. The temporary fix I used worked for 2 years. I just stuck a small paper clip or safety pin in the corner of the port, and then plug the cable in. If those are too big just use something you can use to make the plug fit tight. It finally stopped worked a couple of weeks ago, so I just bought a new USB port at an electronic store for $1.50 and soldered it on. I had to buy flux which was $3.00. $5 and an hour of time after squeezing 2 extra years with paper clips. Priceless. Just make sure you have a cold beer to solder with. Sticking drinks in a freezer wrapped in a wetpaper towel for 15 minutes is like a reverse microwave for beer.

Make sure only the midi input is set, not the output, and that the channel your using is armed. Otherwise the signal won't get through in record mode.

If your just using as a controller don't set the output. You only need to set the input. Make sure the channel your using is armed as well. The button below mute & solo will be red if it is.

There are several reasons why this could be happening, assuming it's Windows, not MAC. -Check to make sure the OUT port isn't set. You only need IN for basic controller use. - Make sure the channel your using is armed (button below Solo & Mute should be red) [this is the most likely problem] Another problem is the USB power settings in Windows. The default is set to allow the Computer to monitor and turn off USB ports automatically to save power. But it doesn't turn them back on automatically. You'll want change these settings regardless to help reduce latency issues. -Go to Device Manager> USB Controllers> double click & change power settings to OFF for all Root Hubs. Here is a guide to help optimize Windows to lessen Latency, Dropouts and Clicks /Pops. It's for Studio One, but the settings are the same for Windows. You might want to give Studio One a try. I've used everything and by far Studio One is the easiest with the least issues. The free version is better than most DAWS paid versions. It can definitely help eliminate a lot of the everyday headaches that come with using Abelton, Cubase, Protools and even FruityLoops (which is pretty gay anyway). M-Audio is also notorious for USB hardware related issues. A lot of times I find it turns out to be a bad connection between the plug and keyboard port, which tends to wear after awhile. It can go unnoticed because it still fits tight enough to get power, but not enough to keep the board fully functional. Hope this helps. -