20 Most Recent M-Audio Axiom 49 49-Key Semi-Weighted USB MIDI Controller Questions & Answers

The cable could be bad. Try another cable. USB port problems are also common with M-Audio. If that doesn't work, try using a 12v adapter to power it on. Just make sure you don't use both USB and the power adapter at the same time, or you can fry the board. If it powers on with the adapter then it's an USB issue. If it doesn't, then it's something else.

Open preferences. Go to Control Surface tab. Click Add. Select M-Audio as manufacturer. Choose Axiom 49 Make sure the ports are set right. Controls IN Port = Axiom 49 Hypercontrol In Keyboard Port = Axiom 49 USB A In Controls OUT Port = Axiom 49 Hypercontrol Out if it hasn't detected yet then restart Reason. Make sure the power on the Axiom is on. If you still have issues the USB port on the Axiom could be bad.

Wow...just loose or intermittent as well? Most of these jacks and connectors are directly soldered to the main circuit boards which could mean broken and/or intermittent connection. Check your warranty status but if expired...to resolder check for a local electronics repair shop to help as the disassembly and intricate work may be beyond many DIY fans.

It needs to be plugged in to a computer with a DAW to produce sound. The DAW converts the information sent by the controller about which key is pressed and how hard and converts it into sound with a virtual instrument

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cq5y98toFYc&feature=emb_rel_end https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f-iIatuSr-s&feature=emb_logo https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2gzobXzfxdQ

I just had the same issue. The temporary fix I used worked for 2 years. I just stuck a small paper clip or safety pin in the corner of the port, and then plug the cable in. If those are too big just use something you can use to make the plug fit tight. It finally stopped worked a couple of weeks ago, so I just bought a new USB port at an electronic store for $1.50 and soldered it on. I had to buy flux which was $3.00. $5 and an hour of time after squeezing 2 extra years with paper clips. Priceless. Just make sure you have a cold beer to solder with. Sticking drinks in a freezer wrapped in a wetpaper towel for 15 minutes is like a reverse microwave for beer.

Make sure only the midi input is set, not the output, and that the channel your using is armed. Otherwise the signal won't get through in record mode.

If your just using as a controller don't set the output. You only need to set the input. Make sure the channel your using is armed as well. The button below mute & solo will be red if it is.

There are several reasons why this could be happening, assuming it's Windows, not MAC. -Check to make sure the OUT port isn't set. You only need IN for basic controller use. - Make sure the channel your using is armed (button below Solo & Mute should be red) [this is the most likely problem] Another problem is the USB power settings in Windows. The default is set to allow the Computer to monitor and turn off USB ports automatically to save power. But it doesn't turn them back on automatically. You'll want change these settings regardless to help reduce latency issues. -Go to Device Manager> USB Controllers> double click & change power settings to OFF for all Root Hubs. Here is a guide to help optimize Windows to lessen Latency, Dropouts and Clicks /Pops. It's for Studio One, but the settings are the same for Windows. You might want to give Studio One a try. I've used everything and by far Studio One is the easiest with the least issues. The free version is better than most DAWS paid versions. It can definitely help eliminate a lot of the everyday headaches that come with using Abelton, Cubase, Protools and even FruityLoops (which is pretty gay anyway). M-Audio is also notorious for USB hardware related issues. A lot of times I find it turns out to be a bad connection between the plug and keyboard port, which tends to wear after awhile. It can go unnoticed because it still fits tight enough to get power, but not enough to keep the board fully functional. Hope this helps. -

I would suspect the sustain pedal jack on the keyboard is either dirty or defective. Try using some contact cleaner first, and if that doesn't work replace the jack.

e.g. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Global-AC-Adapter-4-M-Audio-Prokeys-88-Stage-Piano-Charger-Power-Supply-Cord-PSU-/260991184879

What kind of a unit is it?

Power bottom has to be replaced,

The most likely case is that one of the main output transistors (if which there are many) is shorted. When the protect circuit senses DC on the final output, it will not allow the output relay to come on to protect the speakers from raw DC. With the power removed, you can check between each outputs Emitter and Collector and you will probably find close to zero ohms. From that point you need to unsolder each of the pins of the bad channel until you find the shorted device(s) and replace them.

'pianoforte'

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