20 Most Recent Hitachi C15FB 15" Heavy Duty Miter Saw Questions & Answers

Brake is controlled by the switch. There are two switches that can be used on your saw. One switch has only on/off, the other switch is on/on. On motor when pressed and on brake when released. The switch with brake does not last very long because the braking action is really just shorting motor circuit (short circuit). All motors can produce electricity. The brake action occurs by shorting motor thru switch. Electricity that motor is producing while turning forces armature to stop. Other brands use a resister in breaking system to absorbe current help switch last longer. Parts are available at www.toolpartsdirect.com Good luck

The first picture is the only one I could find of your saw.
All saws are fitted with carbon bushes that contact the armature of the electric motor.
In time the carbon which conducts the electricity wears down, as they disintegrate there are particles of broken carbon connect with the armature giving an intermittent burst of power, eventually the bushes no longer contact the armature and the saw does not work at all.
The next photos show the approximate position of the cover to access the bushes, there is one one each side of the housing.

They usually unscrew and expose the spring plate the bush is mounted on, gently pull this out.
As you can see the bush is worn in a concave shape, and that the wide side is breaking up.
If this is your problem then take the bush and model number of your saw to a supplier or spare parts shop or the hitachi web site to get replacements.
Hope this helps.
If anyone finds this information helpful please tell fixya
Cheers
Les

either the switch is bad or the motor brushes worn out

To reattach the return spring on your Hitachi C12LSH miter saw, follow these steps:

1. Ensure that the miter saw is unplugged and turned off for safety.
2. Locate the yellow protective cover on the miter saw. This cover is designed to shield the blade when the saw is not in use.
3. Look for the small metal hook or attachment point on the yellow cover where the return spring should be connected.
4. Inspect the return spring itself and identify the end that needs to be attached to the yellow cover.
5. Align the end of the return spring with the attachment point on the yellow cover.
6. Apply pressure and securely attach the end of the spring to the attachment point. It may require some force to hook the spring into place.
7. Once the spring is properly attached, test the yellow cover by pulling it away from the blade. It should spring back into place when released.

If you are having difficulty locating the attachment point or need further assistance, consult the user manual for your Hitachi C12LSH miter saw. The manual should provide specific instructions and diagrams for reattaching the return spring. If you don't have the manual, you can usually find it on the manufacturer's website or by contacting Hitachi customer support.

If your Hitachi C10FS compound miter saw is running unsteadily and the power cuts in and out constantly even after installing a new switch and brushes, there may be a few possible reasons for this issue: Loose or damaged connections: Check all the electrical connections in the saw to ensure that they are properly connected and not damaged. Loose or damaged connections can cause intermittent power cuts. Faulty power cord: The power cord could be damaged or have a loose connection, which can cause the power to cut in and out. Inspect the power cord carefully, and if necessary, replace it with a new one. Faulty motor: If the motor is faulty or damaged, it can cause the power to cut in and out. You may need to have the motor repaired or replaced. Electrical interference: If the saw is being used in an environment with high levels of electrical interference, this can cause the power to cut in and out. Try moving the saw to a different location to see if this resolves the issue. If you have checked all of these potential issues and the problem persists, it may be best to take your saw to a professional for further diagnosis and repair.

check to see if something is in the blade causing it to stop.. try removing the blade then see if the motor will run without it ..

Page 10 and 11 of the manual shows how to adjust the laser. Same machine, different name Hitachi > Hikoki. https://www.hikoki-powertools.com/manual_view_export/pdf/C99141312_C12LSH_806.pdf ..

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/575884/Hitachi-C-10fsh.html

Check the brush holders and make sure the brush can travel freely all the way down to the commutator. Look down the brush tube with a light and turn the blade to rotate the armature - look for missing/burnt segments on the commutator. Also, this has a soft-start module that can go bad - if the brushes and armature are good, switch rings out, and all connections are tight, I would lean toward the module.

You bypass the breaker in question by connecting the saw to an outlet connected to a different breaker; or by swapping two breakers out and see if the problem moves to the other circuit.

All the Parts Suppliers https://www.google.com/search?q=hitachi+c8fb2+parts ..

Question edited for clarity. Question moved from Laundry Dryer. Replace the start capacitor on the motor. The classis reason for humming and not spinning. The start capacitor gives the motor a jolt to get it running. https://www.google.com/search?q=Hitachi+table+saw+start+capacitor ..

K9602724017 will work with some minor bending of the mounting tangs and matching up wires. I bought one on ebay a couple years back.

It is part 112 on the parts schematic but gives no indication https://www.ereplacementparts.com/hitachi-c10fcb-compound-miter-saw-parts-c-7927_13297_13413.html Manual doesn't show either https://www.hikoki-powertools.com/manual_view_export/pdf/H99322813_C10FCB_405.pdf Aha, a Service and Repair Manual. Perhaps that will help? https://www.manualslib.com/manual/799928/Hitachi-C-10fch.html#page=23-manual ..

Only checking the circuit with a multimeter will find the fault and that means the saw will need at least partially dismantling. Internal breaks in the power cord is a common problem with tools and appliances and is a good place to begin...