Kenmore 16.7 cu. ft. / 473 liter Upright Freezer 23725 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

The drain should be center of back inner freezer wall directly under the evaporator. That's if its a Frigidaire product.

• Hi Martin,the most likely problem is the compressor is faulty.Check if it is getting very hot by touching it.It could also be a refrigerant problem or a faulty thermostat.

If it says OFF on the display, have you got a manual to say how to put it back on?

kenmore elite, alarm kept going on and b flashed on and off. I finaly figured out on bottom of freezer there is a battery door open it and change 9v. thats it,

what is your model number is then we can get started then

First unplug Freezer and look for dust on the Heat Exchanger Coil blow it out and then remove all old ice for inside or Freezer plug it back up and if the round looking tank get hot it need some freon call a service person or learn how to do but this danger thing if you not a tech.

I looked at the BACK at the bottom underneath of my Sears Kenmore frost free upright freezer and what was causing the ice buildup was very simple. At the factory, the assembler looped the little hose too high and when the water went into the hose it could not get out due to being too high in one spot! An ice dam will form, blocking ALL water coming through
and freezing up any more water coming down giving you a HUGE wad of ice that is scary!!! I just removed the screw holding the loop that holds the hose and put a bit of warm water down the little hole on the INSIDE (Behind the grate) to melt the remaining ice in the tube.You need to take out 4 screws and remove the grate to see this. I could not believe that this was the problem! I haven't had any ice build up since.Now don't tear your freezer apart before you try this trying to fix the compressor, thermostat etc. It may be the only thing wrong with it!

Check the door sits straight and square on the front. You can "adjust" with the heel of your hand to make it sit flat against the frame. Even a poor seal shouldn't make frozen food thaw - check and clean the condenser and fan

check the gasket around the door very likly that the door gasket has a gap or is not mounted so that will make the freezer run all the time,

Try turning the temperature control to off, unplug the electrical power cord from the power outlet, defrost the appliance, clean the condenser, plug the power cord into an electrical outlet, set the temperature control to a low setting, lay a thermometer in the freezer for a few hours and see what happens to the temperature in the machine.
Check the integrity of the seal of the door gasket by seeing how the door seal will hold a slip of paper in various locations along the freezer door gasket. A loose hold on the slip of paper shows an area where hot moist air can get into the freezer and cause ice build up.

Hello, The unit is freezeing because you are having a fault when the unit is trying to go into its defrost cycle. Click this link http://c.searspartsdirect.com/lis_png/PLDM/R0303508-00003.png you would have to perform a continuity test on parts 20 and 14 using a multimeter to see which of these two is at fault. Usually it is part 20 which is the defrost thermostat that causes this issue in the unit. If you do test both of these parts and both do have continuity message me back for further diagnosis. Thanks I await your reply and please also remember when our chat has fully concluded to rank how this opinion has helped in your appliance situation it allows me to continue helping others in similar situations in the future. Thanks
Rick

just dont put it in the stupid freezer

It has a clogged drain tube and bottom trays is already full.
De-clogged it using a solid wire, match enough to penetrate the drain tube.
Insert solid wire slowly to the drain tube, back and forth.
Put water to clean and rinse drain tube.
Regularly check drain tube for clogged and tray for full water.
Good luck.

Sounds like a bad gasket or something between the door allowing outside warm air in.

I've just had a similar problem. I fixed it by removing the large panel on the back of the inside of the freezer. I found a large build up of ice at the bottom of the freezer which seems to have developed because the drain hole at the bottom of the freezer was blocked. I defrosted the ice, cleared the drain and now the freezer is working fine.

Most units have the control top rear, some have them external.

ic Defrost Thermostat
This is the component that controls how long the heater stays on when the machine is in defrost mode. Say the defrost cycle is thirty minutes, the heater may only be on for ten of those thirty minutes on the timer controls. On Adaptive Defrost Controls, when the heater shuts off, shortly after the machine exits defrost mode. Basically if the heater only stays on for ten minutes, the whole defrost cycle will only be about 12 or 13 minutes longe is continueing to build up due to one of the defrost cycle parts not fucntioning properly this is the most likely piece to be causing your ice up issue do a continuity test on the thermostat to assure that it is working properly
Basically when the heater comes on, it starts to melt the frost on the evaporator. Once all the ice and frost is gone, the temperature behind the panel will start to rise. Once the temperature behind the panel rises to a certain temperature, the thermostat will break the current of electricity going to the heater. Bam, it shuts off and prevents your freezer from becoming a sauna, or an oven. I'm sure you get the drift. The heater is on the bottom of the evaporator coils and the defrost thermostat sits on top of the evaporator coils.
Defrost Heater
This is the last component in the defrost system. This one should be pretty simple. By now if you have read this far you should already know what this does and how important is it. Some defrost heaters are a coil of wire in a glass tube under the evaporator coils. Works like a light bulb basically. The other style looks like the bake element in your stove. They both get red hot either way and melt the frost
Defrost control or timer. Some refrigerators have a defrost timer. This type works like a clock. Every eight hours or so the machine hits the defrost spot and that's when defrost occurs

Some refrigerators have an Adaptive Defrost Control. This is what makes a refrigerator energy efficient. It varys the length of time it takes the machine to go into defrost. So instead of the energy hogging heater coming on every eight hours, it may be 24 hours, 18 hours, 10.5 hours, who knows. It depends on how many times you have opened the doors, how long the compressor has run. This is good because the refrigerator may not need to go into defrost every eight hours. Now you are saving energy.

and lastly there is the fan also if it is not working will not allow the flow of air to leave the inside of the freezer. Continuity test can also be done on the heater as well and the least likely would be the timer to go bad in some models they have a board on the back of the machine instead of a defrost timer if you have any further questions please message me back and please remember to rank how this opinion has helped as well Thanks again Rick

Sorry to read about your problem. you can have many different problems.

Here are some areas to troubleshoot
1. Bad temp control
2. Failing compressor
3. Defective start cap
4. Defective overload protector
5. Defective control board

I suggest you call a service company. for compressor issues

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Sorry to read about your problem, I hope this helps you out.

you may have a bad seal around the door, letting air in

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